Ken Shiring
Agent
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2002
- Messages
- 38
Guys, please help me. I am in a bad spot. Here is the lowdown:
I am currently finishing off a complete set (sans sub) of Audax HT speakers. All of them are functional and assembled, but the finish has not yet been applied. After testing my two surround channels (they sounded great), I was taking the drivers off and the crossovers out so I can veneer the cabinets.
The cabinets are constructed out of MDF. The front baffle is 1" thick, with 3/4" pine "anchors" placed on the inside of the baffle at each bolt through hole. These anchors are used to provide a better gripping surface for T-nuts, which are hammered in with JB weld on the underside for added strength.
While taking the last bolt out of the woofer, the bolt got locked with the t-nut. They locked each other so hard that it stripped the t-nut off of the pine anchor. Now the bolt, with the stuck t-nut, spins freely in its through hole when twisted. I seem to have no way of ge
tting the bolt out, and thus the driver and the crossover network too. I need this very badly, because I can't leave it like it is.
This problem gets even worse. There is not enough of the bolt head sticking out of the front to cut the head off with a Dremel. Worse yet, I can't access the inside of the cabinet (much), because the tweeter hole above the woofer and the terminal cup hole are both around 2" around. This is not big enough to get my hands in. It makes it only barely possible to insert pliers.
My first though was to rub the t-nut with adhesive, to get it secured back onto the pine anchor. I have tried this twice, once with wood glue and the other with a more liberal coating of JB weld. Neither had the strength to hold, becase when I tried turning the bolt, the friction between the bolt and the nut was so strong as to break the adhesive bond.
Yet a third problem is this: I noticed the bolt has settled back into the cabinet a little. I wanted to tap it back out toward the front to make another evaluation of trying to cut off the head. When I was tapping it, it appears that I have bent the bolt itself, so it is no longer straight.
I am out of ideas now. I appeal to anyone with a creative mind on how to get out of this mess. I can't afford to build another cabinet, and at this point it is looking like I may have to destroy the driver to remove the bolt. I really don't want to do this, but I'm not seeing any other way now.
Here is a pics of my situation:
Front baffle view
Inside shot
I am currently finishing off a complete set (sans sub) of Audax HT speakers. All of them are functional and assembled, but the finish has not yet been applied. After testing my two surround channels (they sounded great), I was taking the drivers off and the crossovers out so I can veneer the cabinets.
The cabinets are constructed out of MDF. The front baffle is 1" thick, with 3/4" pine "anchors" placed on the inside of the baffle at each bolt through hole. These anchors are used to provide a better gripping surface for T-nuts, which are hammered in with JB weld on the underside for added strength.
While taking the last bolt out of the woofer, the bolt got locked with the t-nut. They locked each other so hard that it stripped the t-nut off of the pine anchor. Now the bolt, with the stuck t-nut, spins freely in its through hole when twisted. I seem to have no way of ge
tting the bolt out, and thus the driver and the crossover network too. I need this very badly, because I can't leave it like it is.
This problem gets even worse. There is not enough of the bolt head sticking out of the front to cut the head off with a Dremel. Worse yet, I can't access the inside of the cabinet (much), because the tweeter hole above the woofer and the terminal cup hole are both around 2" around. This is not big enough to get my hands in. It makes it only barely possible to insert pliers.
My first though was to rub the t-nut with adhesive, to get it secured back onto the pine anchor. I have tried this twice, once with wood glue and the other with a more liberal coating of JB weld. Neither had the strength to hold, becase when I tried turning the bolt, the friction between the bolt and the nut was so strong as to break the adhesive bond.
Yet a third problem is this: I noticed the bolt has settled back into the cabinet a little. I wanted to tap it back out toward the front to make another evaluation of trying to cut off the head. When I was tapping it, it appears that I have bent the bolt itself, so it is no longer straight.
I am out of ideas now. I appeal to anyone with a creative mind on how to get out of this mess. I can't afford to build another cabinet, and at this point it is looking like I may have to destroy the driver to remove the bolt. I really don't want to do this, but I'm not seeing any other way now.
Here is a pics of my situation:
Front baffle view
Inside shot