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The T-5 is a 3" voice coil model. For SPL car guys, that is a "better" sub. For sound quality, the 2.5" coil on the T-6 will have a lower inductance and give you better sound quality. It also has more xmax (maximum linear excursion) than the T-5. With the T-6 being dual 4 ohm, you can use...

I freely use both model numbers so people aren't confused. :D Since they are the same amp inside, I don't want people to go looking for the 2500 and thinking it is a smaller amp. Behringer just added a peak power rating and bumped up the model numbers. The EP-1500 is now the EP-2000. The...

That's a Chinese knock-off of a QSC amp. I don't see that it is rated at 2 ohms though. The Behringer has no problem running at 2 ohms stereo. I even swapped the factory fan for a quiet model.

The EP-2500 and EP-4000 are the exact same amp with a different model number on the front. I use the EP-2500 on dual 15's and I can shake my entire house. It's more than powerful enough. My theater, my amp. That's a Stryke Audio/TC Sounds TC2+ 12" sub, my Behringer and then my center channel...

Fortunately, I'm fluent in converting metric to English measurements. Based on your measurements, I used the standard 3/4" thickness for all sides and a 1.5" double thick baffle to come up with approximately 14.8 cubic feet. By the time you properly brace it, you will end up with about 12...

Large and sealed is your best bet. I also suggest a pro amp to power it with. Behringer makes some great ones that don't cost that much. I've been running an EP-2500 for a few years. It will be a day or 2 before I can model up an enclosure but like I said earlier, the larger the better. How...

http://www.soundstream.com/AudioProducts/Subwoofers/tarantula.htm The full T/S parameters for the T5 series are listed but not for the T6. Without those parameters, we are just guessing when designing an enclosure.

Not my logic but Hoffman's. He's the H in KLH speaker fame. The less work a sub is doing, the less distortion it has. In fact, a sub should never bring attention to itself unless the material calls for it. All you need is basic woodworking skills. It's a box with one or more holes in it...

Your goal is output. That is like saying you have a vehicle with 500 horse power. If your goal is speed, which one do you want? A race car, street legal car, a Kenworth dump truck, a tractor or a bull dozer? They can all have 500hp. Think of this sub as the race car. With only about 5...

With Gene's description, it will allow you to test to see if there is really a ground loop between your AVR and your sat receiver.

There will be a visible wire running from the dish or a nearby coaxial coupler to a ground spike in the dirt or to a water pipe in the ground.

How is the satellite receiver connected to the AVR? If you have the ability to connect it via an optical cable, that will eliminate any ground loops. Also, is your satellite dish grounded? Depending on your house ground, that could cause issues.

The Matterhorn is legendary in the DIY forums. It was probably the first introduction of most to tapped horns. If you worked in the industry then you know the big names. A lot of them hung out here when there was an active DIY section. It was like going to school every day when I logged in...

Since I bent my rule, I might as well break it. There are two ways to look a determine the power handling of a low frequency driver. The most common is thermal power handling which is how 99% of all raw drivers are rated. The other is mechanical power handling. With low frequency driver, that...

Thank you for your service. I don't see where that gives you an advantage in discussing electromagnetic transducers. The only one that I know of with military experience related to this is Dan Wiggins of ADI. His background was in SONAR. Yes, the net is saturated in "facts" about audio. I...

I'm not debating you in this thread. In fact, it's not proper forum etiquette to hijack a thread like this. If you want to discuss theory, I'll be happy to debate you in your own thread.

Correct. They give you options for many different systems. The only proper way to connect a sub to an A/V receiver is the LFE/sub out to either one of the inputs. It doesn't matter which one as they are summed inside the amp. Your speakers connect directly to the receiver. You should set...

Good luck with the sub. I'll definitely read the review. We can also discuss room placement, in-room frequency response and adding an EQ if needed. 135 is pretty good. Sundown Audio just hit 152db with a single 8" sub in their test car.

Velodyne makes some very good subs but they are expensive. MIssion and Energy make good subs as well. I wouldn't waste my time on Yamaha unless you can get it at a great price. Most companies that make electronics don't make good speakers and subs. Speaker manufacturers make pretty good subs...

The most popular are plate amps. The same amps that are in the retail subs. Here's a small sample from Parts Express - http://www.parts-express.com/wizards/searchResults.cfm?srchExt=Mfg&srchMfg=488&Manufacturer=Yung%20International . There are some Asian manufacturers that will sell direct...

Large subs are more efficient and therefore don't need high wattage. http://www.salksound.com/wp/?p=56 You can also go with other alignments like a folded horn or tapped horn that will increase sensitivity to extremes. As with any sub, there's a trade-off in size. These things are massive.

Klipsch makes a decent sub. That Infinity Kappa Perfect is an awesome driver to use in a DIY sub. But you can't use a car audio amp since there is no safe way to properly power it.

I'd go with at least a single 10" in a ported enclosure tuned as low as possible. Going to a 12" or 15" would allow you to go sealed and have a box the same size as the 10 with more output. Is your goal really to shake the floor? That tactile feeling requires a LOT of sub and a LOT of power...

There's a location field in your profile so that we can tailor answers to your location. I'd guess to say that 95% of the forum members are in the US so that's what we usually assume unless you include a clue in your post. If you have learned patience, I can help you through the build process...

Why not a sub that reproduces whatever signal is fed to it? The sub doesn't care if it is music or a movie, all it sees is an alternating current on the input. Bass is about moving air. Larger subs can move more air than smaller subs all other things equal. No. Hoffman's Iron Law is in effect...