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I realize that's the conventional belief, but why? I mean, from a perspective of physics, why is that? Certainly the actual floor won't vibrate when it's on concrete, but most of the bass we perceive is sound waves traveling through the air. The concrete structure prevents those waves from...

A couple decent budget options are the Dayton SUB-1200, and SUB-1500, the second is out of stock for about six weeks.

That's pretty reasonable for a sub, actually. An alternative would be an SVS SB-1000 Pro for $200 less than the REL. I think it'll suit your needs as well as the REL. Much less than that, and you're risking getting something you're disappointed in. I don't suggest paying to have the Paradigm...

I generally agree with @John Dirk , except I think he accidentally linked the ELAC UniFi Reference, rather than the regular UniFi. Crutchfield lists the Dalis by the pair, and the ELAC as singles, so the ELAC is slightly cheaper. Then just the matching center and a pair of bookshelves for...

Well, I'm not going to comment on whether it's terrible or not. It's just barely a reality, and severely limited to a handful of closed system options. For one thing, there isn't really such a thing as wireless in this particular sense, because the speakers need power, and at the least will...

Wireless requests tend to scare me away. If that isn’t a requirement I can definitely make suggestions.

What Jim is saying is that you ideally want the front three speakers to be from the same line of the same brand. It's not ideal to mix and match those.

No apology needed. I'm the one who can be prickly. The original placement of the 4000 was definitely a problem. You almost never want to put a sub in the middle of a wall. Think of bass like a wave pool with the waves radiating from the subwoofer. They radiate out, hit walls and bounce back...

I never use Audyssey to calibrate sub levels, so I forget that it can completely screw them up. So yeah, it could be a serious calibration error.

Those levels mean nothing. I'll say that again. They... mean... nothing. There are so many variables in calibrating a system, and those are different subs with different amps, drivers, enclosures, designs. If you had to turn the 4000 up to +10 I'd be concerned that something was wrong. My...

They're going to be different, and the first impression might be that the PB300 is better, due to the generally fatter sound of ported subs, like Dave pointed out. The thing is to listen to them beyond that and appreciate the control and clean bass of the SB4000. They won't tend to draw as...

I'm in agreement with Dave on the subject of sealed subs. I'll take a capable sealed sub over a ported one every time. The fact is, the 4000's driver (and amp) is on an entirely different level than the 3000. For an extra $200 the SB4000 is simply a considerable step up from the PB3000...

Not to mention the $500 difference in price… each. I’d get SB-4000s over PB-3000s, personally.

That's the standard line, but I think it's grossly oversimplified. I'm kind of sold on sealed subs, as long as they have plenty of power and are well designed. This is especially in living spaces, since they are so unobtrusive. I went into it a bit in my SB-16 review. I don't see going back...

BTW, we've recently had reviews of the top three sealed SVS subwoofers. The SB-3000, SB-4000 and SB16 Ultra, all in dual configurations.

That's a reasonably large room and that PC sub simply isn't going to be up to the task. I think dual 3000s is probably a good idea. You could even take it further, budget permitting. Placement will be tricky and you might have to try multiple locations. If you have a notebook computer and...

Thanks Dave. I just often see people coming in here asking for advice on living space systems being told that anything that can't produce reference levels and extension below 20Hz is unacceptable. The SB-2000 I got a few years ago is my first ever sealed sub, and it has completely opened my...

I just want to toss in a couple personal observations regarding subs. I think there are certain conventions that have been repeated, but there is often more to consider. In a living space which is also used for movies, there are other considerations to be made. It isn't necessarily desirable...

You can't go wrong with any of the 3-4 you were considering. I'm glad you went dual. I finally did that a few months ago, with @Dave Upton 's encouraging, and I don't regret one bit. Fortunately, my HT room is ideal for it and now, for the first time, bass is truly enveloping and completely...

That Hsu ULS-15mkii is a real value leader.

I might have misread your original post. The sub you have is the Energy XL-S10... right? I actually haven't heard about sub amps overheating, but it's certainly possible. I understand some if not most Rythmik subs use Class H amps, which will generate more heat than the traditional Class D...

Well, "louder" mains could mean a lot of things. And I'm guessing you mean you have RP-8060FA, not 806. Those speakers are quite efficient, so they don't need much power. Louder could just be a matter of increasing the trim level of the main speakers. That sub isn't even remotely sufficient...

I'll give an alternative to Dave's. I think either is worthy. Same receiver as Dave suggested. That's a great refurb deal on an excellent receiver. Front L&R ($1,400) ELAC UniFi UF 52 Center (currently $370) ELAC UniFi UC 52 Surrounds (currently $250) ELAC Debut 2 B52 Surround Upgrade Option...

I don't know. It's a terrible year for buying receivers. The Denon model numbers in your area might be different than the US. I don't know where to get used or refurb gear outside the US. It'll probably be a year or more before availability and prices improve. In general I recommend...

The front three in particular should be the same line from the same brand. So, with a 3.1 system, that's all the speakers except the sub which can definitely be a different brand. In fact, it probably should be a different brand because there are brands that specialize in subs. There can be...

Soundbars are speakers, but they aren't only speakers. There are some very rare cases of soundbars which are just L/C/R speakers in one enclosure, and nothing else, which you use with a regular receiver, but the overwhelming majority of them are complete audio systems with amplifiers and source...

Then you should go with a receiver and speakers. Soundbars by their very design are self-contained, and quite limited. But they are more simple to use.

You don't use soundbars with a receiver. It's an either/or thing, not both.

They can reduce the number of channels by matrixing those channels into the existing channels to create the best attempt at a pseudo surround. 3.1 actually works pretty well, with a little surround effect that depends on the capabilities of the speakers. The Debuts have exceptional imaging...

If you're willing to go refurb (a good deal) you can get this Denon H950, which will do up to 7.2 or 5.2.2 for $450. For $600 you can open the possibility of up to 7.2.4 later by adding an amplifier with the Denon X2600. For speakers, I'd personally recommend the ELAC Debut b6.2 and C6.2 that...