Search results

I have an old sub with speaker level inputs and a 6 dB/octave high pass crossover for routing reduced bass signal to the mains. At a crossover of about 100 Hz, the power is approximately -3 dB at 50 Hz and -9 DB at 25. The first octave, 100-50 Hz, is not -6 because the filter's slope is not...

OK, Doug!:D I finally understand it and appreciate the distinction. I will take all that into account. The system in question is actually for my bedroom, which I know I will not be playing at reference levels. So, I'll play it in crippled mode as described for a while. In the meanwhile, I have...

Continuing on with the #2 example, what would happen if you put a Y connector in a full-range preamp out and connecteed two amps to it. One amp would drive a tweeter with a high pass filter in front of it, so the tweeter would not see signals in the bass range. The second amp would drive a...

Thanks Doug. I understand what you are saying regarding non-brick-wall and agree all you said it as far as it goes. But I think you have missed the main point of my questions / comments, which obviously I did not phrase too well. I'll clarify my points. Regarding #1, the LFE signal has an...

Thanks Doug. That sounds pretty bad, no pun intended. :) I am confused. There are two things I don't understand about the concept of overloaded mains. 1. Even if I had a separate amp for the sub signal, is there not a crossover involved somewhere in the signal processing, so above the...

Thanks, all. I think I will try it in the proposed mode (sending the sub signal to mains) first. Then I will use an old receiver to drive it from the .1 pre-out and see if it makes a difference. If I like the amp approach better, then I will shop around for a used amp. I don't have any old amps...

I have an old M&K Volkswoofer III (with a new driver) that requires speaker level input. It has a servo amp that picks up the speaker level input, performs active equalization, and drives the woofer. It uses passive low pass and high pass crossovers, also speaker level. I have used this sub in...

I have a theory as to why it worked, but I am not sure. What happens if all the TV cables are removed completely from the system? No component connected to the wall, and no components connected together throught the TV cable. Do you still have the hum? (I am guessing no.) Then what happens...

Mike, As for the spark, it seems to me that lack of grounding by itself should not cause a spark. Maybe an outlet has reversed polarity. That could do it. Grounding is needed only for safety should a voltage appear on the chassis through a wiring fault of that component or appliance. What...

The buzz / hum is probably caused by a ground loop. Here is a good web page on ground loops and how to correct them. "epanorama.net/documents/groundloop" Sorry, the forum won't let me post a real URL. I get this: In an effort to cut down on the number of members that just post a thread...