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I agree with Tim, I looked through the collection and found some major holes in it as far as stuff to demo/reference by. Not saying my collection is complete. Definitely pick up any or all of the ones listed in here and get to pure visual and audio nirvana!!!! :)

Tommy, I would highly recommend looking at the Cambridge Audio Azur 640c, it can be had for $450 shipped and is the best player I've come across under the $1000 mark. I even like it better than the Arcam CD72. The WM8716 24-bit/ 192kHz DAC in this thing is amazing and easily as good if not...

You could also checkout something like the Philip's SL300i or SL400i which will allow you to play/watch videos/and view pictures directly from your PC or Internet (if you have a network at home (wired or wireless). Pretty neat device and works really well. Can be found here: www.streamium.com

The SVS WILL crush the B&W. My PC+ 20-39 is very compareable to the N800 sub... So the PB12-ISD would easily play lower, better, and not have the "boominess" of the B&W. I went through the B&W 600, 650, 675, 800, and 850 before I settled on the SVS...and it by far has impressed me far more...

Since you are going to be watching movies mainly, I would HIGHLY recommend the RSP-1068 and say the RMB-1075/95 depending on your money situation. The 1068 will destroy the 1055 for HT usage, plus you'll have the power to really push your speakers and be amazed at how they really sound with this...

I was one that never thought there could be a big difference in a say $400, $800, $2400 Pre-amp.... Now I can say with out a doubt, there is a definite difference... I went from an old Pioneer Dolby Pro Logic Receiver (maybe 400 at the time, to a Yamaha Receiver (about 800). This made a...

I don't know who told you that from Yamaha, but that's just not true. Even the lowest model Yamaha outputs the full channel of sound and is not "made" for satelite/subs. Unless it's a specific Home Theater in a Box... but the model you bought will output a full range 20-20K signal without any...

I'd go and buy all three... :) Demo them all (two polks and SVS), return whatever you think sounds "worse." I imagine you should be able to return the polks without any problem, and the SVS you definitely can return if you don't think it sounds better than the Polks. ...but I've always...

I had and still have the Yamaha rx-v1400 and it's one heck of a receiver for it's price! The up-conversion on it is phenominal, I had everything running through it and had no problems what so ever. The quality of the Yamaha is better than the Pioneer I'm starting to find out... I just...

I have the 1095 as well and I think the Rotel matched up with my B&Ws is along the lines of being bright...might be slightly laid back and warm...though it's a tough call. I think I'm used to very bright and detailed things as I love the Yamaha's receivers...which are said to be bright...

Jim, what are you looking for? I can hook you up with a bunch of places if you let me know what models you are wanting to look at and if you will be closer to Grove City or Pittsburgh...

I disagree, if you are happy with the sound you have from your receiver, adding an amp will only enhance that quality of sound. A lot of times people mistake the lack of good quality sound for a lack of features on the processor when in reality its just the lack of power from it. I'm with...

Scott, you might want to try moving the center channel more to the right on top of the TV, it will give you a better "center" presence to the sound stage. Just because your TV is a little bit left, you won't notice it a whole lot if you move it some. I imagine that will help with imaging. :)...

I've had my PC+ 20-39 for almost 8 months now. Love it. Only thing I can complain about...is it's not a PB12-Ultra/2. :D But I guess I can live with the PC+ until I can get it... It's tough wanting to get so many things and limited to what you can get because of funds... :)

You are correct, just add a splitter, then you will want to calibrate both subs (each individually), then calibrate them as a whole (where if you turn one down, turn the other down the same amount (roughly). You might notice some phase issues if you don't have them co-located...so be aware of...

Just tell them all, that it's hollow to allow AIR in there...and what's a subwoofer's job....to MOVE AIR. So it can do it's job easier and better. lol ;)

The 604s and the 602s sound exactly the same. The only difference is the lower extension of the 604s. The 603s, to my ears don't have as good of imaging. I think the 602s and a paired subwoofer would be the best option. Probably cost you the same as the 604s and you have a lot lower...

Check out B&W, I love the way they sound with the Yamaha Receivers (I have the RX-v1400 and it's great with my 600 series B&Ws). Though it's not the end all be all for what I like it fit right into my budget and sounds great (until I get upgradeitis of course. :D ).

Puuuuuurrrrrrrrttttyyyyyy. :) I want one, I want one! :)

Okay let me answer a few of your questions... With your sub set at 1/4 and receiver at -3 (which is very close to what I have it set at)...you will not bottom the sub out, even at reference that's still hard to do at that setting. If it is bottoming out, take two pieces of metal and smack...

If everything's properly calibrated and you have "enough" sub for the job...one shouldn't have any problem. To not have enough sub for the size of room/listening preferences...well no one to blame but one's self. That's why so many people "go for the gold" when buying their subs...headroom...

Just place them (suggest 602,601,600 in that order depending on your price range) right behind the couch, equal distance apart. Facing straight forward, maybe a little bit toed in to get the middle seat a slight bit more. Once you calibrate everything you should have no problems with them...

Easiest way to do it, somewhat fun, only mildly cruel (if at all)... is to ready a heavy deep powerful bass scene like Darla tapping the glass in "Finding Nemo" or the pounding knocks on "The Haunting." Wait for them to get up close to it and start to investigate it. Just as it looks like...

All the suggestions above are really good. I would also throw into the ring the B&W DM602 S3s. I think they would work just as well as the ones listed above.

I doubt highly that 5"s are really going to change the sound that much, as long as you can see the whole speaker from your listening position, you should be all good. I wouldn't even worry about trying to trade them in for 24" stands... The 602s I think will make quite an impression on...

If you set your speakers to large, NO bass goes to the sub unless a specific LFE signal is sent. If you set your speakers to small, crossover kicks in and redirects signals to the appropriate speakers. If you set them to BOTH (I believe it is, then signal is sent fully to speakers as well as...

B&Ws 805s (I think) sound better than the 804s, however the 802s sound better than the 805s. In my opinion. The way I look at tower vs. bookshelf is a couple ways, if you have the room, great, they definitely look impressive. If you are going to use your system for 2ch audio listening, then...

It's the statements like the ones above that makes it so easy to see who the honest and open-minded people are. It's almost a breathe of fresh air seeing people that get as excited as I get about everything there is in the HT industry and don't try to bash company ABCDEFG just because of their...

If I had my choice between buying the DM601s for the rear, or buying the 600s and the LCR600, I'd go with the second option. There's just tooo much information that comes out of the center channel to skimp on that vs. the surround. Though I would go with the 600 center and 601s. :D...

Man you completely messed up buying that thing. Should've gone with a PB2+ or Ultra. ha ha :D Though in all honest I wish I would've gotten the PC-Ultra...hmmm TV12 goodness.