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Bah, played with the math and there is really no way to do a forwardish firing driver. Started constructing the cabinet today... I feel like I'm making a sandbox for the HT. :)

And the only rattles are from the light fixtures, which I will be tightening up. The walls themselves are VERY solid.

It seems clear to me that there is no really good way to build the subwoofer. It won't be possible to make a perfect cabinet. However, would it make sense to mount the driver on a diagonally mounted sheet of MDF a la: ----- --------- Perhaps a semi-front firing setup would be a bit...

Richard: Unfortunately, the location of the sub is pretty much determined by the location of everything else in the room. I can move it side to side a bit, but my screen prevents it from getting any taller. I can go 4ft wide by 4ft deep, and ultimately I can do lots of bracing. My Mirage OM-7s...

IB is NOT an option, sadly. Would love to do it if I could.

The height restriction comes from my projector screen. Thanks to a slope on one side of the wall, I was unable to raise the screen as high as I wanted to. I'd like to use the PE 250W amp. I'd like to keep it under $400, if possible. The room is 13'x17' plus a couple of rather large alcoves...

Appreciate any help you guys can offer a DIY newbie. :) I've looked through a number of web sites and asked a couple of questions on another forum. Basically, my problem is this: The subwoofer cannot be more than 13" tall, including grill, spikes/feet, whatever. Furthermore, it has to...