I don't know what exactly is in the market in Australia, but from the size of the enclosure, power handling and size of drive I'd personally say no. Especially from North American standards. I'd call the list price outrageous and the price you've found high.
If it's loud enough it will actually vibrate you. Is the room open to anything else? How high are the cielings? Need that information to determine how much sub you'll need to reach levels that will shake you. What will make the vibration feel start a bit earlier would be to build a small...
Carpet would need to be ridiculously thick and porus to affect bass frequencies. Room placement is orders of magnitude more important than what the floor is made out of. 4" thick wall treatments stuffed with fiberglass insulation don't do anything to bass frequencies under 100hz. Carpet will do...
That would be a not too bad idea, but there are two issues with it. The first is as far as I know SVS will not sell their drivers for this purpose. The second is the prices for those replacement woofers are pretty high for the displacement they provide in comparison to a number of other drivers...
Roughly the same issue as the box subs. The port would be sticking out into your garage and you'd find the low bass performance to be very lack luster as a result. The only sub you could build into the wall like that is a front firing sealed sub. Something like a Paradigm Servo-15. But if you're...
That sounds fantastic. My only suggestions were going to be a subsonic filter and phase adjustments and you have them both there. If they build the unit you described above, they've got one definite sale from me.
If you got an adjacent garage you want to build out into anyways forget about a commercial sub. Infinite baffle. http://home.comcast.net/~klone-audio...-12Shiva1.html There was a great forum dedicated to these, but it seems to be down right now. The above link will get the idea across...
I'm not sure what quality the Craftsman saw you have is, but without a decent tablesaw it will be near impossible to get perfect cuts. However, proper setup of any half ways decent saw should allow for relatively clean cuts. Provided the sheet is properly supported as Leo has outlined. Here's a...
The sonotube links page seems to have disappeared so you can't use that. I did a fairly detailed job of out lining the two subs I've built on my webpage. Some searches and reading in the DIY section of this forum will turn up many more project pages and all the information you need to build a sub.
That's sounds better. I've got a Tempest in 260L, welcome to the club ;) PS - I think the closest comparison to your Tempest in the SVS line would be the Ultra.
John, not that it really matters, but could you check with your buddy again about what the design is. Are you sure it isn't a Shiva instead of a Tempest. Also allowing 8" of the height to be legs and end caps that works out to an ~160L enclosure. Take away port and driver area and you get an...
I suggest you read this: http://www.speakerbuilder.net/web_fi.../phat/hpif.htm Then do some looking around at the meriad of budget 2 way designs out there. There are some good ones on that site and more can be found on the Madisound and Parts Express sites. With this route you won't have...
Making ports longer is doing essentially the same thing as plugging a port, just without sacraficing half your port cross sectional area. When you reduce cross sectional area and keep the length the same the tuning frequency goes down, but you up the port air speed significantly limiting how...
I've got the 3 led pocket style Matterhorn AAA from these guys. http://www.peakledsolutions.com/ Bulbs last forever, really really hard to break and I think the little tiny guy I have is as bright or brighter than the AA maglite. They have LED flashlights that range in price from $30 to...
I agree with Philip. Unless you rig a really tough door (plexiglass, or something that hides the equipment) that seals air tight to the wall that won't work very well.
It's not possible to get that type of bass in a room that size with a $2k budget and commercial subwoofer options. I'm not sure it's even possible with DIY stuff. The closest you'll get commercially would be multiples of SVS stuff. Say 4 25-31CS subs and you'll have to ebay for some used pro...
I'd add the air spaces, front and back of the driver, need to be seperate. If there are any moderately sized openings between them, it can cause cancellation issues. Next the air space on each side needs to be big enouh. The minimum is 4x the combined Vas of the drivers used and 10x is...
If you're other two dimensions aren't limited as much, and you have or have access to some basic wood working tools, have you considered a DIY option? $800 would go a long way to building a very impressive sub and with some mildly creative engineering wouldn't be difficult to use a 12 or 15 inch...
If you have the tools, and don't consider the time spent building the sub as an expense, then yes, you can easily build something equivalent or better than a SVS 25-31PCi. If either of the above aren't true, then you can't. The other thing DIY allows, is for you to control the shifting of...
I would think sealed would be a much more likely cause. All circumarual does for me is keep the weight of the headphones off my ears. I can't wear my supraural cans (Grado SR-60) for much more than an hour before my ears hurt. I can wear my HD600 all day at work. Another big thing that can...
Mackie is correct. Sealed/Open and Circumaural/Supraural are two different things. Circumaural means the headphone ear cups do not rest on the ear, they rest around the ear. Supra aural means the ear cups rest directly on the ear. I'd be very surprised if someone found supraural more...
If you can get a Charge Ti for $60, it's what I would call a no brainer :p) Run don't walk, you won't regret it. A Swiss Army knife is a gadget, a Leatherman is a tool. I got the original Wave for Christmas a number of years ago. Carried it all the time and got lots of use out of it...
I've been here, the whole time, just not posting anywhere near as frequently. My big posting time was the 9 months or so I was jobless out of school. Haven't been jobless for the last 2.5 years :) I'll have my own wood shop soon, so you'll see some more DIY stuff from me soon, I hope ;)
http://www.hometheaterforum.com/htfo...124#post517124 Assume the speaker's senestivity ratings is at least 3dB higher than it actually is and that it's claimed extension is 1/2 to a full octave lower than it actually is.
Not really a metaphor. But a couple years ago I forgot to do something, and when my father asked me about it, I responded, "That's funny, I don't remember forgetting."
I believe the full tang often has more to do with balancing the knife than handle strength. I love my Wusthof set. Bought more than I'll ever need, but if I take care of them (which I have been so far) I expect to get many decades of use out of them. I ordered from...
With a 2.35:1 anamorphic lenses aren't you just reversing the throwing away of resolution. 2.35:1 will use the entire panel, but to make any taller aspect ratio work you'll have to use less of the panel so it squishes or stretches right. That is unless you remove the lense. And an anomorphic...
Only way software can do it is by losing resolution. You need an extremely cable zoom lense or the ability to move the projector backwards and forwards to do a constant height setup without throwing away resolution. You'll also likely need a lense shift, software aspect ratio control or the...
Don't know of any projector with a native panel rez of this type. There are a number of people running constant height screens however. Done with one or more of software, zoom lense or mounting the projector on tracks. Personally I've adopted a constant area approach (excluding aspect ratios...