Recent content by JerryD

I ordered my A/V1+s in the middle of July, so they were in the first batch to come out with the new woofers. For lining the cabinets, I have a piece of 269-884 "4 layer damping material" from Parts Express that is similar to BlackHole 5, but about half the cost. Hope it works as well. I'm also...

Hi Chris, I'm building a pair of GR A/V1+s and a sub for my son to take to college this fall. I have the sub done, but am just getting started on the A/V1+s. The sub is a 114 Liter with a Dayton 12" DVC downfiring, 4" dual flaired port and a Parts Express 250W plate amp. The box is 14" x 16"...

I just paid $2.41 / sq. ft. for my gloss black Formica. This is for the countertop grade, not the vertical grade, which was all they could get at Home Depot.

Just go to any supply house for heating and air conditioning and ask for a "line-level thermostat". Mount it in the equipment closet and connect the 120VAC line for the fan.

I purchased a sheet of the "4-layer damping material" from PE with the intention of using it in a pair A/V-1+s that I am to be building soon. Does anyone have any info on how it compares to the real Black Hole 5 material, or have you used it in A/V-1+s?

I'm doing a Sub for my son as a graduation present for him to take to the dorm next year. I have settled on the Dayton 12" DVC for the driver and the PE 250W plate amp. (I have two of the 15" DVCs in an IB for our home theater.) Unibox shows good results in vented boxes from 85 to 112 liters...

The Dayton 12" DVC 295-185 seems to have totally disappeared from the Parts Express site. What's up with that? It's not just out of stock, it's nowhere to be found. Does anyone know if they may have discontinued it?

There is at least one other factor to consider if you are doing an IB with just one driver. In an IB, there is not as strong of an "air spring" behind the driver to help limit its travel as there is in a sealed or vented design. The result is that any given driver will tend to run out of...

I have two of these in my system. Great amp for the price! If your receiver or pre-pro has a subwoofer level setting, I think you can solve this by turning the level up a bit in the receiver or pre-pro and then adjusting the gain down on the amp to get the same SPL level you had previously...

It takes some work, but it can be done. The edges of MDF will absorb much more paint or finish materials than the flat surfaces. Applying a few coats of primer or sanding sealer to the edges with light sanding in between will give you a smooth surface for painting.

I am not the expert on this, but I am told that grill frames can cause an audible difference, especially if they have edges that are 90 degrees from the front surface. I seem to recall the work "diffraction" in the explaination. Most of them have the edges chamfered at 45 degrees or use a...

The pre-amp board of a plate amp would not be hard to move to a chassis. The problem is the power stage. In a plate amp, it is normally attached to the huge heatsink which is the finned part of the plate amp that is exposed after it is mounted. The power transistors need to be attached to a...

If there is any chance the S.O. would go for maple, I would give it a try. Maple is really great to work with and finish. Durable too. If you can, find her some great projects done in bird's eye maple to show her. You can even find pieces of solid maple for the edges at many Home Depot stores.

I've done all my speakers and subs in maple and love it. Some sets I have finished with tung oil. It gives the deepest glowing finish because it penetrates the wood deeper than most finishes. I don't think it is as hard or durable as poly finishes... probably more suscepible to water marks...

Since the Tempest has dual voice coils, you might consider using two plate amps, one driving each coil. The popular 300-794 at Parts Express is still $125. Two of those each driving 8 ohms would give you a total of 360 Watts. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...=9388&CATID=43