Recent content by Ethan Winer

Speakers are always too close to walls, unless you set up in a gymnasium. :D So the standard advice applies here too. All rooms need: * Broadband (not tuned) bass traps straddling as many corners as you can manage, including the wall-ceiling corners. More bass traps on the rear wall behind...

Yes, you can make a 3-way crossover but you'll need two circuits for each channel insead of only one. The first splits two ways for the woofer and mids/highs, and the mids/highs are then further split to separate mids and highs at a higher frequency. --Ethan

Your English is fine and you're not bothering me at all! I suggest you do a little Google research to look for beginner advice with electronic circuits. There are a lot of web sites that have exactly the information you need if you spend a little time searching. --Ethan

I agree with Robert that given the level of your questions you're probably better off building a kit. I'm not trying to discourage you! But the audio construction articles on my web site might be just a bit too advanced for you at this point. --Ethan

See this article: www.ethanwiner.com/spectrum.html Look for the heading "ELECTRONIC CROSSOVER" about halfway down the page. --Ethan

> My audio advisor is recommending acoustic treatment < Excellent. No point having nice speakers and other gear if the room makes a muddy mess of the sound by giving a skewed response, echoes, and bass ringing. > He states that $10k is barely enough for a B installation. < That's...

Johnny, Tim is on the right track, but I'd put the speakers at the bottom of the drawing facing up. Having the speakers fire the longer way into the room lets you sit farther away from the wall behind you, which is where the inevitable peaks and deep nulls are worst. I hope nobody minds...

Nat, > Will 2" thick panels provide any help in the mid/upper frequencies? < Yes, absolutely. --Ethan

Andy, That's the right stuff, and you can peel off the plastic facing and stack them together. The only downside is it's pretty expensive if you plan to make many panels. And those ceiling tiles are so thin you'll need 4-8 of them to make each final panel. --Ethan

Adam, Have a look at the Acoustics FAQ, second in the list on my Articles page: www.ethanwiner.com/articles.html --Ethan

Dan, I'm not much of a construction guy, so I can't help with your drainage problem. Maybe you could leave the floor as is and paint it, or use vinyl tile? Sorry that I missed the 7' height - I see it now in your original post. With a height of 7 feet and width of 12'10" there's no ideal...

Dan, > is 25' too long? < There are various "ideal" dimensions for a room when audio quality is important. For an 8 foot ceiling and a 12'10" width, a length of 18'6" is about right. But what's your ceiling height? --Ethan

Joh, Yes, building speakers flush into the walls is very good if it's done right. Most professional recording studios have this arrangement. Below is a photo of one such studio. --Ethan --Ethan

Wayne, > Why in the world would you want absorption for a frequency where you have a null? < Eric nailed it. Nulls are caused by reflections, so adding absorption reduces the severity of the nulls. Eric: Building a bass trap tuned to 40 Hz is not trivial because it has to be very large...

Rod, I agree with Rutgar that optimizing your room dimensions is very important if you're hoping for a well balanced low end. Note that there's more than one "good" ratio of height to width to length. This is explained in detail in the Acoustics FAQ, second in the list on my Articles page...