Recent content by Dan Wesnor

The Dayton Titanic subs are excellent. 2 of the 15" wired in series in a 10cu.ft. box with a 4"x7.5" port would hit 106dB with only 3mm excursion on 15W of power and have a roll off that should match the gain of a large room nicely assuming the amp has no boost.

Marketing.

Grab onto a 50W light bulb that's been on for a few minutes to get an idea of what 50W of power feels like. I've had resistors melt carpet at normal listening levels, and they weren't carrying nearly as much percentage of the load as we're talking about here. The short answer is, don't do it.

Joe, I'd be worried that there's not enough area in the holes the woofers are venting into the room through, and that you might end up with some weird quasi-horn loading, or some other weirdness due to front-loading of the woofer. But, hey, you've already got the woofers, for you mays as well...

Fb = F box. Technically, Fb is the resonant frequency of the box by itself. If you look at ported boxes, you will see that Fb has nothing to do with the woofer. The same is true in sealed boxes, although the distinction is typically ignored. Fs = F system, which is ambiguous. If there is not...

If the woofer is in the box, Fb=Fs and Qts=Qtc.

Put the woofer in the box just like it will be in the final - including the amp, if applicable - and measure Fs and Qts directly using something like SpeakerWorkshop (free). You'll have to bypass the amp for the measurements, but you want it taking up space. Make sure you're using and amp with...

If you're getting the "benefits" of active XO from the Rod Elliott page, be aware that he is talking about generic, textbook crossovers. If the crossovers are custom designed for the drivers, there is really no difference, except that a passive XO will stop amp distortion from coming out the woofer.

I have 2 subs. One is an old Shiva Mk. I in a 14" cube with a Linkwitz transform. In room, it is flat to 20Hz. The designed roll-off is Q=0.707 @ 30Hz. It is not Earth-shattering, but this is a big room. I mourn the loss of this driver. The other is a 12" Dayton Titanic Mk III (I think) in a...

If I had one of these, I would probably just end up running a hose from the Diet Coke tap directly to my mouth. :)

You're going to need more than two...

Getting Fs higher than the spec is not unusual, and happens about 95% of the time.

Just hook them up to an amp and play something through them, make sure the volume is turned down so they don't beat themselves to death. If you want to get the most break-in for the power output, play a tone at Fs. But it's really not critical what you use, you just want to flex the spider...

Parts Express has a kit that's something like $125/pr, not sure what it's called, but most DIY speakers will be more than $200/pr. The GR stuff is a good option.

I don't know if I'd call that "very low". at 96dB, it's 10% at 20Hz, 2% at 40%. You'd hope a 15" sub would do better than that.