As for the Atrium 4. I'd get the Atrium 5. There are reviews stating the typical mounting situation renders the 4 with a low end frequency response around 120. The 5, if mounted the same, should still pull off 80.
16awg is fine. I prefer "as big as will fit"(meaning 12 or 14).Yep, sub, composite(yellow) and digital coax are all the same cable.The wire in the conduit...hopefully it is at least 16. If not, re-fish it with 16(or bigger).
Yeah, I read that StereoPhile review ages ago.Still don't believe a 4" woofer (reliably) gets there.Also, there is a difference between a "noise graph" and "what sounds good".Also...The Pio AJ does what the Paradigm Atom Monitor and Totem Kin Mini can't do???
Some worthwhile hints...With Onkyo, I would set the towers to 60(just me), the center at 80. Surrounds at 100. I know Pio says the bookshelves play lower...not buying it.Direct bypasses bass management. So, a 2.0 source plays on 2. A 5.1 plays 5.1.There are soundtracks that will outrun the...
For people to use it with a stereo receiver and external crossover(although, if the AJ sub has RCA output, you don't need the external crossover)Period, You are overthinking. You, because you have .1...connect one.If one day you buy a stereo integrated amp or pre-amp/amp...you'll run two...
IF your RCA cable does not say RG59 or RG6....do not use it for the sub.
All of those listed above are RCA cables...but not all RCA cables fit the criteria of those 4 specific uses.
(which means...not all RCA cables are made from RG59 or RG6)
Yellow composite video cable is the same thing as digital coax is the same thing as shielded subwoofer is the same thing as component(the 3 video cable...cable).
HDMI Zone 2(or zone 3 or 4 As Pioneer calls it) is not the same thing as a "2nd HDMI output".When that is in use, the AVR does not produce the audio. As it is NOT intended for this purpose. Onkyo and Denon allow (on the models that support it) the 2nd HDMI output to be either...2Nd or Zone 2.The...
There are numerous "room SPL calculators". I'd link one if I wasn't on my phone.You feed it basic info(placement of speakers, distance from them, efficiency) and it tells you the power required to hit certain volumes.
All AVR do that, 1 of 2 ways...1. Pick your video source. Pick an audio only source. Video from original source stays.2. Alternate audio setup. Throwback for DVI devices.
Correct...You also have to realise two things...1. The AVR is not really 85x5 or 115x5.Most AVR produce 40%-55% of the bullshit power rating by 5/7.Onkyo are easy to figure out...sorta. The models with preouts(838+) have a "video only" power use spec.That number varies from 80-120. Onkyo lists...
The Pio AJ is an low efficiency speaker.
Volume increases(that are universally regarded as "noticeable") are 3db.
Every 3db requires 2x the power...
85db is 1.
88db is 2.
91 db is 4.
94db is 8.
97db is 16. (here is "loud" already)
100 is 32.
103 is 64 (your neighbors are complaining)
Now...
HDMI passthrough in standby is what the feature is called. Except for "the bargain bin", all AVR have it(except HK).The Wii needs HDMI upconversion. That starts at $500 AVR.Two HDMI outputs is what you are going to Have to give up. Unless you buy used.The Onkyo 636(pretty sure) is the cheapest...
Do you have any advice on a receiver? I don't need anything too fancy... I was hoping for something that had multiple HDMI inputs - last I counted, there could be at least 5 HDMI devices going in (cable box, Apple TV, PS3, Xbox 360, Oppo DVD player that will eventually be upgraded to an Oppo BD...