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I can't have up-firing ports - I'd lose a cat in them. And I'm still using my DIY subs and speakers also. Quality components for DIY cost a little more but will last a lifetime if you take care of them.

I like the specs of the those PE subs. Low inductance means low great sound quality.

Overkill is good. During the action movies scenes that test an average sub will still be distortion free on your sub. I went back through the thread. Which amp/port combo did you choose? Yes, large enclosures will get a low WAF but at least in my case, the wife enjoys a good action movie.

Take a look at the 18's from TC-Sounds or the 21's from Exodus Audio and Incriminator Audio. That will make you appreciate a small 15. I have posted a pictures of my custom 15 that weighs in at 65 pounds.

Gloss black will show everything under the paint including the wood grain of the fake birch that Lowes and Home Depot sell. Go with MDF is you want a smooth finish. Cut some of the panels large and then trim them with a flush trim router bit. Seal all of the edges with sanding sealer...

That would be perfect for a 20hz Fb (tuning frequency).

The SSF on the BASH 500 is set around 30hz which is way too high for home theater subs. Use that table to choose the bass boost (+1 db) and cut-off that you want....You can confirm the settings by looking at the resistors when you get it in.

It's a combination of port area, port length and the enclosure size that gives you the tuning frequency. Let's say you were going to use dual 15" passive radiators. Well, each has a cone that is 14" in diameter. That is like having dual 14" ports. To get a tuning frequency of 20hz in a 5...

A round 4" port has an area of 12.566370614359172953850573533118 square inches. Dual 4" ports are basically 25 square inches. So if you have a port that is 12.5" wide by 2" tall, it will have to be 38" long.

That's right. And that is 38" each. You are running into the many trade-offs of designing a sub. Do you want large ports that won't make a chuffing noise? Then they have to be extremely long and they may resonate in the pass-band. What do you do? You go with smaller ports that are flared...

With a 15" I'd use dual 4" ports but dual 3's are acceptable. When modeling the sub you have to look at the maximum air speed in the port. Too fast and it chuffs.

Dual 3" ports. I don't remember the length but you can find that out at www.psp-inc.com and their nifty port calculator. Remember that the volume I give you is net. You have to account for all bracing, driver, amp and treat the ports as solid objects.

First, I used the T/S parameters that are on driver's spec sheet, not the ones you listed. The Vas of 9.9cf is just too large to make any sense. Sealed - 4.5cf is the optimum size that Unibox determined. Stuffed with 4.5 pounds of polyfil, it brings the Qtc down to .621. The Fb is 31hz and...

Sorry but no. Between work and rebuilding a dead PC I've been very busy. I have a minute here and a minute there to answer easy stuff. Looks like it may be a snow/ice day tomorrow so I could have some time. With a 50/50 music/movie ratio I'm thinking a large, sealed box with a Qtc of .5. Do...

What are your goals for this sub? Movies only? Music? Combination? If so, percentage of each? With my DIY sub, I built it to be accurate. It is + or - 3db from 80hz down to 17hz. With the Dayton 500 amp, it will help because it comes with a single band of parametric EQ. You will be able...

I'm a fan of Unibox for calculating my enclosures. Techically it is an Excel spreadsheet and built-in macro so you must have a decent version of Excel before you can use it. But according to a few different experts, it is one of the most accurate of the free programs. Yes, the programs are...