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It sounds like you can use a media manager, like the Escient SE-D1. It manages CDs and DVDs in a graphical interface using an Internet connection and of course, your TV. This model at $999 controls one 777ES changer over RS232. If you plan on adding additional changers, the DVD-M100 supports...

Voltage stabilizers are a huge waste of money, especially for power amps and receivers. They limit current to keep the voltage stable. Most electronics will run fine within the 105-120V range and even older houses don't have a lot of problems with that. What you really want is a good surge...

The Sunfire TGP-5 would also be a good choice in that price range. The Krell Showcase 7.1 controller is very good too, but it's $4,000.

Well if you have to have it now, an HDMI 1.1/1.2 audio capable receiver will support uncompressed PCM and Dolby TrueHD/dts-HD MA provided the disc player will decode the full stream (I don't think such a beast quite exists yet). If you're willing to keep what you have till late Spring/early...

For the most part, bi-amping speakers with passive crossovers (almost every speaker made is passive) is a waste of time. Further, bi-amping is most beneficial when you have two separate amps doing it (i.e. two separate boxes with their own transformers). In my experience, that's usually the...

Denon has their own iPod that works with most of their iPod docks, too. But in my experience, it doesn't work as well as I'd like it to.

It sounds like your old Pioneer is a Pro Logic receiver, given its lack of digital audio inputs. There's a tremendous difference between that and a new receiver with Dolby Digital and dts decoding. But, I tend to agree that you should start with the speakers first and then get into a new...

Anything that is HDCP-compliant (it can be either DVI or HDMI) will be subject to DRM. There's really no way around this because the film industry has too big of say in how digital video devices are designed. DVI is becoming less and less common on home theater electronics. 95% of the A/V...

Is there a particular reason you want an LCD instead of a plasma? Despite the fact that LCDs with 1080p capability have become affordable, to me, plasma still has the best overall picture for a flat panel. Better color, deeper blacks, better scaling with DVD and SD sources. "Burn-in" is a...

Some additions... Hero (arrow scenes) Open Range (best-mixed western film in a LONG time; particularly the rain and gun fight scenes) U-571 Gladiator Apollo 13 The Haunting (terrible film, great sound) IMHO, the best dts music video disc has to be The Eagles' Hell Freezes Over...

Sounds like a video sync error to me... What make/model is your LCD TV and A/V receiver?

1. The AVR-987 and AVR-2807 are identical, save for some slight cosmetic differences. The reasoning behind having two separate model numbers is for validating warranty coverage. The "four digit" AVR models are intended for resale at specialty stores, wheras the "three digit" equivalents for...

Looking at the manual, the 1016 doesn't appear to be multi-voltage (no physical switch present). In fact, there's really not a lot of US market products that have this capability. Perhaps an international version of this product might...

1. The ability to display video on the plasma coming from a PC would depend on both the plasma and the PC, not necessarily the A/V receiver. Your plasma does have a VGA input, so this would be the ideal connection. If you still have the need for a traditional monitor, you'll want to make sure...

I could be wrong, but according to your TV's manual (page 29), the digital audio output on the TV only functions when the TV receives a digital cable signal using its internal tuner. It doesn't seem to mention whether it will work with an HDMI signal. IRC, Audio Authority still makes an...

I am assuming that you are talking about the Max In-wall Power Kit by Panamax. I know that RGPC (Richard Gray) also makes a similar product. The problem is that you can't put an IEC power cord into the wall because it's against building/fire code. The Panamax solution jumps power between an...

I wouldn't say that having a UPS for a home theater system is as crucial as it would be for a computer where you can lose vital data, although they can be lifesaver in the event of brownouts (which can be damaging to anything electronic). If your budget allows, it doesn't hurt to have a UPS...

Well, you can technically get 5.1 playback without HDMI at all by utilizing the digital audio output (either optical or coaxial) on the player itself and running it to the receiver. Dolby Digital and dts are compressed, encoded formats that will require the proper decoders to play. You will...

The other advantage that some 7.1 receivers will have is the capability to bi-amp the main speakers if you don't use back surrounds. Most Denons can do this. Whether or not it actually makes an audible difference depends on the speaker and of course, you ears.

After skimming through the manual, it appears that this strip has no high-current outlets (basically, outlets that bypass the conditioning and noise filtering built into the strip). Conditioners limit current (usually detrimentally) to power amplifiers, receviers, powered subwoofers, etc. and...

Home theater components (especially receivers, amplifiers and powered subwoofers) generally draw more power than home computers will, thus surge protectors designed for home theater will generally have higher joule ratings (the level of protection provided against surges and spikes) and in the...

Are you using a digital cable or satellite box connected digitally (optical or coaxial) for audio, as opposed to analog (left/right RCA)? This could be the issue, in which case you'll need to see if your LG has any adjustments for lip sync delay in the setup menu. Considering that you've...

For TrueHD and dts-HD, you need one of the following: 1. An HDMI 1.1 or better equipped receiver capable of handling LPCM audio being fed over HDMI by a player capable of decoding the formats. 2. A player capable of decoding the full uncompressed format connected to any receiver or...

This statement is somewhat confusing. I assume by "HD cables" you mean component video, which should ALWAYS look better than s-video even for SD broadcasts, especially on larger screens. But of course, s-video will always look better than running the RF coaxial connection from the box to the TV.

If you only plan on using devices that already output either an HD or upscaled signal, there's really no need to spend unnecessary money on receivers that will do it for you. Another good receiver in the price range would be the Denon AVR-2807.

The only receivers available that have internal HD scaling (as in taking a 480i signal and converting it to 1080i/p) are a bit out of your target price range. The higher-end Pioneers (like the Elite 82TX/84TXsi) have Faroudja scaling built into the HDMI switch and the flagship Denon AVR-5805MkII...

What kind of set top box are you using for HD and how are you connecting it?

The AVR-2307CI will also do all of that for $800 retail (likely cheaper online). It WILL handle uncompressed LPCM for full bandwidth TrueHD/dts-HD, but whether or not you'll be able to do this with the actual player (it needs a decoder of this) remains kind of a mystery. So far, the players...

I am assuming that the two speaker systems will be dedicated. I really hope they are, because sharing speakers between two different display devices on different walls is really hokey. Yes, a splitter would work for sharing a sub. I highly doubt that you would damage your sub having both...

Well, you can either replace the original factory remote or buy a cheaper Harmony remote, like the Logitech Harmony 659 (you should be able to get one of these guys for $100 or less online). The Harmony is PC programmable and will allow you control all your devices with one remote.