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ehhh MA Audio is very poorly made, chrome plated junk for the most part. I really owuldn't waste money on that stuff. just my opinion of course.

just a dust cover. we used to have customers come into the shop with little kids, and the brats would push in the dust caps on the subwoofers on display every friggin time. a vacuum will suck the cap back out if you deem in worth the effort. pretty simple to fix but yeah its only cosmetic...

great choices. If you don't mind a bit of cutting on the doors, you could add a pair of 6.5" coaxials up front that would really round out that system. having all of the sound in the rear deck really destroys the soundstage.

actually the fuse itself is non-directional, but the fuse holder is. one end lends itself to exposing the end when it's disconnected or open. that's the end you want by the amp, not the battery terminal :) that way if it drops and hits metal, you don't get a short to ground.

"hard hitting 6x9" is an oxymoron. 6x9 speakers by their very nature are fairly poor performers, but yeah the XR line would be a good bet if you refuse to use a sub, although a sub sounds like exactly what you want. JBL or Kicker for the amplifier. P80.4 or KX300.4 respectively. use a...

If you do have the JBL sub amplifier, use a pair of Y splitters to give line level signal to both front and rear inputs on the amplifier. It makes a world of difference for some reason. This fact has been noted by countless JBL users on another forum I frequent.

all of JBL's BP series sub amps are 1 Ohm stable. the output is regulated however so that the amps put out the same power at 1 Ohm as at 2 Ohms. in the case of the 600.1, that'd be 600WRMS. if you want a less powerful amp, there is also a 300.1 and 150.1

go to any conversion van custom shop. they have tons of auto carpet in any color imaginable. I used to get all of mine at such a shop for pretty cheap. sounddomain and crutchfield are going to be a ripoff for stuff like that. as for carpeting a box.. I always finish my boxes. raw MDF looks...

the JBL amps are actually underrated a bit. the 600.1 actually puts out about 660WRMS on a scope.

IF the amp is one Ohm stable, that looks fine. bridged I take it.

its very clean and quite powerful for what it is. the Vdrive amplifer is a MOSFET hybrid amp, and it does need a dedicated 10AWG line from the battery terminal. I replaced my JVC El Kameleon with the CDA-9813. Average listening volume of the JVC in a grand cherokee was between 15 and 20. the...

JBL or Cadence are the cheapest two companies I'd recommend. the JBL BP600.1 is a terrific amplifier for the money. etronics.com has good pricing.

Check with Metra. They may already have a replacement kit for he G35. That car's been out long enough by now to have at least one floating around. Alpine CDA-9813 offers what you want in a head unit. Vdrive internal amplifier, 3 sets ov 4V pre-outs, MP3/WMA support, CDR/CDRW support, 6 disc...

the other rather minor advantage to cables built for car audio, is that most interconnects come with the remote trigger wire as well, so you don't need to run a separate line for that +12VDC trigger signal for amps and signal processors. granted, not that big of a deal either way in the long...

I am about to pull my JVC El Kameleon myself, in favor of the Alpine CDA-9813 I just bought. the JVC is a great little CD player/changer controller though. Very ncie unit. Tuner isn't the best, but it's good. CD playback is fine. I like the face of it as well. not cheap looking like so many...

I use AR Master's series cables for my sub at home. decent cables, but nothing like better products like Transparent. Point is though, that AR doesn't make cables for car audio. car audio cables need more shielding than home systems do since you're dealing with DC voltage power supplies and...

I've never been a fan of theirs, myself. I've always found them to be extremely ugly looking, and lacking in performance and features for the most part. I believe their only real claim to fame was Porsche's choice to use them as a factory radio for a few years. I do hope you get it figured out...

Focal is good. so is DynAudio if you want something with a very smooth tweeter that isn't too bright. some people find it too "quiet" but it's extremely flat, which is what leads to this. People are used to bright treble in cars I guess.. comes from that "loudness button" curve I suppose...

AR's cables are made by Recoton, FYI. the ones knukonceptz provies are pretty good for the low price. they use twisted pair for the interconnects. Nice design for noise rejection. If you really want good cables for the car though, streetwirez has them.. but you'll pay for it.

Toyota Corolla Honda Civic Pontiac Sunfire Dodge Stratus Pontiac Grand Am Chevrolet Cavalier any of the above are good choices. 2. Are car radios fully interchangeable? I think I'll want one with AM, FM, CD (plays R/RW) and MP3-CD and ability to add XM and/or Sirius would be nice...

you couldn;t discern anything under 10% THD in a car anyway from an amplifier. THD is a very misleading spec for an amplifier. McIntosh tube amps are rated at 10% THD as well, and people willingly shell out $35K for those. Ignore THD ratings on amplifiers. The spec is meaningless to be honest...

www.knukonceptz.com great products. $30 for a 4AWG amp wiring kit. yes, the kit is well worth it if this is a one time deal for you with amp wiring. if you're doing a more complex multi-amp system, and you know what you're doing, it can be easier to buy all the stuff piecemeal.. then you...

very true. some people are happy with a factory AM radio, and one speaker in the dash (seriously) and some love their Pyramid/BOSS systems. the same holds true in home theater, too.. some folks like all in one solutions on a small TV, while others won't stop short of Martin Logan, Krell, and a...

my response was to Jimmy's post. you get what you pay for, plain and simple. That's a hard and fast rule in car audio, and rarely if ever, have I seen this not hold true.

Depends on which CDT line you're considering. Classic, Cambria, etc.. I was suggesting the cheaper ones, not the high end models. I don't feel even CDT's top of the line will "spank" the Kappa Perfect components, but it's subjective anyway. Personally, I'll stick with the DynAudio System...

that's just a 4 pin molex plug. radio shack should stock those.. just take the amp along and make sure it fits when ya find one. if they don't, then www.jameco.com should.

some speaker wire, a pair of RCA jacks, and some solder (and an iron of course) will run ya about $6 from radio shack. make your own.

proper gain setting: Totoro's guide to gain setting, complete with 2 CD images of test tones and instructions for use. http://totoro.efiregate.net/HTMLPage...ainSetting.htm information about setting the gains on amplifiers http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/gaincon2.htm how to set...

the amp can take high level inputs.. but keep in mind, it won't sound that great. they never do. best bet is to use a good head unit with at least 4V line out coltage.

yeah I forgot to mention that range was based on the condition of the amp. if its a bit beat up, I'd go low. if its in great shape, no reason to lower the offer.. plus you're not paying shipping I assume, so that makes up the difference there. plus you get to see it hands on instead of relying...