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A couple more thoughts... The sensitivity of the woofer and tweeter. You can pad down a tweeter but it is not practical to attenuate a woofer. So, the tweeter should be have greater or equal sensitivity than the woofer. But wait! If your speakers are in a box rather than in-wall you will...

A few thoughts... First, evaluate your experience level. Some drivers are harder to work with than others. Metal cone woofers with pronounced breakup can be difficult for the novice to tame. Second, what are your goals for the speaker? For instance, if you have a receiver or amp that can’t...

I noticed you on PE and believe I posted to one of your threads. I read 5 DIY speaker forums, pretty much on a daily basis so it is hard to escape.

I think that would be a good combo. The next step is getting driver measurement capability and learning a crossover design program. Jon Marsh today posted on the PE board that the sensitivity of the RS180 was not quite as high as expected which might require a little more padding of the...

This is all I have in me at the moment...

I don't like how the MG18s start to fall apart above 800Hz-1KHz. Most woofers of that size will have a dip around that point, but the off-axis response pretty much diverges there. Even if you went with 4th order slopes for the crossover, you wouldn't be crossing below 1.3KHz so off-axis response...

Are you looking at building just the front left and right channels or will you also be building a center and surrounds?

About 106dB with 65watts

I usually calibrate to 76dB for TV viewing and 80-82 for movies, though for some stuff I will bring it up a bit. Typically, I like to have at least 20dB head room for transients. You would be surprised how loud you can have a good set of speakers turned up before you experience any...

In series or as an MT you should be able to get around 100dB at the listening position in an average room with the AVR435. Only you know if that is loud enough.

If you are looking for a definitive answer, you aren't going to get one UNLESS you happen upon someone that has built the same speakers you are looking to build and they are running off the same receiver you are looking to buy. Ain't gonna happen.

That isn't quite what he said. Read it again.

The HK receiver will allow you to set levels for each channel independently.

If I remember correctly your tweeter is 90dB. The two woofs in parallel will be 87dB + 6dB = 93dB. If you figure that you will use 3dB of baffle step then you are right where you want to be. It will just take a little contouring of the woofer response to make the BSC dip where you need it...

Remember that it is going to take 1/4 the amp power to get the same SPL.

Exactly. Ryan, the speaker drivers you are looking to use don't have a set impedance. They have a different impedance at different frequencies. Most speakers that are rated as 8 ohms dip down close to 6 ohms in the bass/midrange region. That is one of the things you have to watch out for when...

The drivers are considered quite good. Excellant for the price, though I have not had an opportunity to hear them for myself. Do a search on Madisound board. Dannie Richie posts there often. I don't know of any other 16 ohms drivers.

The efficiency of a series MTM and a MT 2-way will be the same. I think your overall logic was going in the right direction. If you want to keep it an 8 ohm speaker then I think it would be worth looking into the GR-Research M130. These are available in 16 ohm versions (shielded, too) at...

The problem with attenuating the tweeter that much is that the overall efficiency of your speaker goes down and it takes a lot more amplifier power to get the same volume. Say you are putting in 3dB of baffle step in your design so that the tweeter is playing 3dB quieter than the woofs...

Say you are going with two of the Vifa MG18s and a Seas 27TDFC/TV. In series, the two Vifas would still be 87dB combined and the tweeter would be 90dB so you would have to attenuate the tweeter 3dB. That would be if you were mounting in a large baffle such as a wall. When you add in baffle step...

By wiring the drivers in parallel you get a 6dB gain in output. By wiring in series you get no gain. ONE of the reasons people go MTM is to match output of the woofs to the more efficient tweeter so the tweeter doesn't have to be padded down. GR Research has 16 ohm drivers as do others...

Last I knew Madisound didn't have them in stock though I heard Zalytron does. I don't see it on their site, though. If you want to go sheilded there is also the Morel DMS-20 to consider. Have you found any other projects using these drivers? For your first time out it can be quite useful to...

My concern regarding the RS SPL meter is that the mfg tolerances don't allow for consistency from one meter to the next. If your receiver has the ability to lowpass to a subwoofer then you can set your speakers to SMALL on the receiver and implement a highpass to your midwoof that way. The...

No, not really. Just like speaker drivers, microphones have their own frequency response and most of them are not anywhere close to flat, especially at the low and high ends. If your mic had a peak at 4KHz how would you know if the peak was from the speaker or from the mic? If you adjusted your...

The Behringer mic requires phantom power, which the 802 mixer provides. You can build your own mic from a Panasonic mic capsule and a jig for less money, but you will have to invest time into it. I meant acoustic frequency response measurements.

Get measurement equipment and practice using it. The simplest setup (though not cheapest) seems to be a Behringer ECM8000 mic and a UB802 mixer. Learn how to use speaker modeling software. Speaker workshop is free and also has measurement capability. Model the drivers you want to use using...

I ironed with a damp towel and it worked extremely well.

To change resolution right-click on desktop and choose Properties. Go to the Settings tab and click on the Advanced button. Click on the Adapter tab in the new dialog box to see a list of resolutions and refresh rates your PC is setup to use by default. Depending on the native resolution of...

Are you setting your PC to match the plasma's native resolution and refresh rate? DO NOT use the PC's S-Video or composite video out, use the RGB (VGA) output! If both the PC and the plasma are scaling the picture it will look bad. If you run a program such as Nokia's monitor test, can you...

If these are for screwing into the mount holes on the X1 it will take #6's.