Recent content by EvanW

Capacitors are for the most part totally worthless, what impedance is ur amplifier wired too, little sob's probably going into thermal protection.

i dunno what ur exactly doin here.... but for ur amplifier, that thing draws almost no current so run some 12 ga wire from ur battery (dual conductor), put a small inline fuse maybe 5A above what the fuse is on ur amp 12 inches from the battery on the power wire in line like + fuse + just run...

id pay 45$ shipped for it if its in really good shape

pioneer premier PRS-800, 2.5mm on the bottom of the faceplate, wonderful HU's

uh, watch out before u reset the power to the car, u might do more damage then good, if ur dash decided to reset, thats not always good.

try running the sub from a different source, like a portable cd player or something, something not pluged into the same outlet, if it stops, u probably got a ground loop, go buy a ground loop isolator from walmart lol its alittle transfomer it will break the loop, try the car audio department

bi wiring doesnt do anything at all, bi amping does, but like john i really dont think bi amping from ur receiver is gonna do much, but go get another power amp and u might hear a difference i dont know, that also depends on ur ears, u could always run ur midbass drivers off ur solid state...

Try ebay, or an electrical supply company online.

im sorry i keep double posting, please delete this.

Does anyone know how to program the remotes for the pioneer 1014 and 1015TX?

Ok, i was just reading this and id im pretty much stumped by it, are we talking about a signal cable for a powered inwall sub or wire for actually powering the driver, and in either case why would coax cable be what u want, a simple shielded RCA cable should do for signal transfer to an amp, and...

I have an opinion, it seems to me that JBL is going back to more hi fidelity they have been more consumer based in the past few years, but i dont think ull see them at bestbuy anymore, the car audio, its basically non existant online, and anything other than left over Northridge wont be found...

Also if coax drivers really intreage you, try something like this.

For 35$ id give them a try, but, i dont expect much from those, as far as car audio has been concerned those were the worst build quality drivers i ever put in anyones car, they also were never very sensative, and thats not a good thing because the coil on the midbass driver cant take much heat...

it will not kill the reciver for god sakes, and just because the speakers can handle 400 watts doesnt mean they need that, if the specs are right they are pretty sensative, the 15 inch driver on that monster can just probably handle alot of heat, if the amp starts clipping ull hear it, and if u...