Yamaha RX-V350 vs Yamaha RX-V793 (1 Viewer)

[Giob]

Hi, I am no expert in these systems and would appreciate help from the experts here.

Which is better and why?

Here are the specs:

RX-V350 Main Specifications

[AUDIO SECTION]
Maximum Power
(6 ohms, 1 kHz, 10% THD)
Front Channels 110 W + 110 W
Center Channel 110 W
Surround Channels 110 W + 110 W
Minimum RMS Output Power
(6 ohms, 1 kHz, 0.1% THD)
Front Channels 90 W + 90 W
Center Channel 90 W
Surround Channels 90 W + 90 W
Dynamic Power (1 kHz)
6 ohms 105 W
4 ohms 135 W
2 ohms 165 W
Frequency Response 10 Hz–100 kHz +0, -3 dB
Total Harmonic Distortion (1 kHz)
(CD, Front Sp Out) 0.06%
Signal-to-Noise Ratio (CD) 100 dB

[VIDEO SECTION]
Composite Signal Level 1 Vp-p/75 ohms
Signal-to-Noise Ratio 50 dB

[TUNER SECTION]
FM 50dB Quieting Sensitivity
Mono 2 µV (17.3 dBf)
Stereo 25 µV (39.2 dBf)
FM Selectivity (400 kHz) 70 dB

[GENERAL SECTION]
Dimensions (W x H x D) 435 x 151 x 315 mm
Weight 9 kg

__________________________________________________

YAMAHA RX-V793 Specifications

AUDIO SECTION Power, Min. RMS Output power/ch., 8 ohms
Main = 20 Hz - 20 kHz, 0.04% THD = 80W
Center = 20 Hz - 20 kHz, 0.07% THD = 80W
Rear Effects = 20 - 20 kHz, 0.07% THD = 80W

Dynamic Power Per Channel 8/6/4/2 ohms = 100/125/150/175W
Damping Factor 20 Hz - 20 kHz, 8 ohms = 200
Frequency Response 20 Hz - 20 kHz = +/-0.5 dB (CD)
Total Harmonic Distortion (20 Hz - 20 kHz)
CD = 0.025% (40W) Phono = 0.01% (1V) Signal-to-Noise Ratio, IHF-A Network CD = 96 dB Phono = 86 dB TUNER SECTION FM 50 dB Quieting Sensitivity, IHF, 75 ohms Mono = 1.55 uV (15.1 dBf) Stereo = 21 uV (37.7 dBf) FM Alternative Channel Selectivity, IHF 85 dB FM Signal-to-Noise Ratio Mono = 80 dB Stereo = 75 dB Harmonic Distortion Mono = 0.1% Stereo = 0.2% Frequency Response 20 Hz - 15 kHz +/-1.5 dB AM Usable Sensitivity 100 uV/m AM Selectivity 32 dB

Dimensions (W * H * D) (435 * 151 * 381mm) (17-1/8" * 5-15/16" * 15") Weight 12.9 kg / 28.6 lbs.

 

[Steve Schaffer]

The RXV-793 is a discontinued model dating back to about 1997 or 1998. It does not have dts processing, not even S-video switching for dvd.

I can't find any RXV-350, the lowest current RXV model on their website is the RXV-450. Power ratings of 110 watts at 10%thd at 1khz are pretty low. Typically you'd want a rating at .05% thd and 20-20,000hz, which would give a much lower number but would be much more realistic.

40wpc at .05%thd 20-20,000hz is probably a lot more real power than 110 at 10%thd at 1khz.

 

[NickSo]

the RX-V350 is the lowest model here in canada, dunno if its available in the US.

Its also known as the HTR-5730

I just purchased the RX-V450, aka HTR-5740, and its miles better than my old kenwood... much better sounding... amazing how far technology has gone these days even an entry level receiver can provide 6.1 and very deceent audio.

 

[Giob]

Thanks for the help guys.

questions:

1. what is THD?
2. What are the 3 most critical things i should look for when comparing receivers?

Once again, all help is appreciated by this newbie enthusiast.

 

[Steve Schaffer]

1. THD=total harmonic distortion. The lower the better.
Weak amplification results in higher distortion. 100 watts at 10% thd means the amp puts out 100 watts when the distortion reaches 10%. The same amp would reach a much lower power output at lower distortions. Thus 100 watts at .05% thd is a lot more real power than 100 watts at 10% thd.

The less thd the cleaner the sound.

Mainly when comparing specs you need to take thd into account when looking at power specs. It's not the only factor but it helps to compare power ratings at as similar a thd level as possible.

It also takes less power to output a 1khz fixed tone than it does to produce the entire 20-20k hz audible range, hence a power rating taken at 1khz is going to be inflated compared to one taken over the full 20-20k range.

Typically some mfgs use high thd and 1khz frequency to let them claim a high power rating.

2. Different people are going to have different ideas as to what are the 3 most critical things to look for in receivers, depending on their priorities.
At the entry level you pretty much want halfway decent real power. To run a set of fairly efficient 8 ohm speakers set as small with a powered sub to take the load of the low frequencies (the lows are the most power hungry) you can get away with surprisingly little real power--60wpc from a mfg with honest ratings can be plenty.

2nd priority for a beginner would probably be ease of use and an understandable owner's manual.

3rd in that class would be reliability and freedom from weird glitches. Often entry level stuff from Yamaha, Pioneer or Denon can be less glitchy than sophisticated high end boutique brands, just as a Toyota Corolla is less troublesome to own than a Lamborghini.

 

[Giob]

Thank you. It is very helpful and very much appreciated.