Yamaha RX-V1 problem.

Discussion in 'Archived Threads 2001-2004' started by Jeff Robertson, Sep 6, 2001.

  1. Jeff Robertson

    Jeff Robertson Second Unit

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    There is a known defect with this receiver that I know some of you are aware of. I believe I may have been hit with it but I want to be sure. After close to a year of ownership now I noticed my LEFT FRONT effects speaker channel is dead. I tried replacing the wire, the terminals, the speaker, as well as swapping the left and right wire pairs on the receiver. The left channel appears to be dead alright. I understand the problem is tied to the PRE-OUT RCA jacks, but I thought this would only affect the MAIN speaker channels, not the effects channels.
    I have an above average amount of electronics skill. Is this something I can repair myself? I *could* send the unit back to the dealer, but the shipping cost would be tremendous.
    Any help appreciated.
     
  2. DonnyD

    DonnyD Screenwriter

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    I, for one, was unaware of any problem with this receiver but , as I have just bought one last month, I am interested in hearing more about this. Does this problem affect any certain build dates or has it been tracked down to that degree????? If there is a "known" problem, you'd think there would be a recall since they are so high and considered the best of Yamaha.
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  3. Bob_A

    Bob_A Supporting Actor

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    Have you tried contacting Yamaha about the problem?
     
  4. Bob McKenny

    Bob McKenny Agent

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    Have you tried taking the pre-out for your left effects channel and connecting it to the main in for your left amplifier channel. If you do this you can determine if the problem is in the pre-amp section or the amp section.
    The "known" problem with the V1 relates only to the Left, Right, & Center main channels (not the effects) where there is a pre-out main-in loop for outboard processing such as an equalizer. In some cases the receiver believes that something is plugged in this loop even though it is not and disables the channel. A simple work-around is to plug an RCA cable from the pre-out to the main in.
    Bob
     
  5. Jeff Robertson

    Jeff Robertson Second Unit

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    Thanks, Bob! I figured only certain channels were affected. So, it seems I have a different problem all together.
     
  6. Danny Owens

    Danny Owens Agent

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    DonnyD,
    I recently gutted my RX-V1 to do a mod that gives me a pre out loop send and return for all six channels. What I found is that the pre-outs for each channel is a switched connector. When you plug in a RCA jack into the pre out, it lifts a blade in the jack that routes the signal from the pre amp back into the amp. So, when you plug in a cable, the amp input is lifted. Then, on the L,C,R channels, when you plug the cable back into the "in" receptical, the signal is routed back to the amplifier. I found that these switched connectors are made out of a chrome plated tin material and are suseptible to dirt and dust build up. IF you have a sudden volume loss in the future, you may want to try just plugging in a rca cable from the affected channel out to the affected channel in. If the level increases, then the dirt is your problem. You can leave the cable in permanently, or get some contact cleaner and spray it into the jack. While it is still wet, insert a rca connector in and out a few times. Make sure the contact cleaner you get is safe for plastics as some of them will destroy plastic. The ones that are safe for all plastics will say so on the label.
    Danny
     
  7. jeff peterson

    jeff peterson Supporting Actor

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    Danny, I'd be interested in hearing how you did your mod? I have a Yammy 2092 receiver that doesn't have 6 channel input (or DTS). I'd love to be able to add them, if possible so that I can enjoy DTS and DVD Audio. I realize I'd need to have the DTS decoder built into the DVD player but I can live with that.
    I'm fairly good with a soldering iron and wouldn't be afraid to tackle the job. Hopefully, the 2092 input stage is similar enough to the RS-V1.
    Thanks,
    Jeff
     
  8. DonnyD

    DonnyD Screenwriter

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    Thanks Danny for the info... there is semi-relief in the fact the problem appears to be dirty contacts and not a glitch with the electronics. I have just bought an outboard amp that I intend to hookup as exteral aplification for mains but didn't want to get into some kind of weird problem.
    On another note, I have found the RXV1 harder to set up than the 2095 it replaced. So far, it hasn't been as consistent as the 2095 and I feel that it is due to so many different parameters that can/or must be adjusted for optimum sound. I haven't had it long enough to fully get into all the details but hope to this weekend as I tear apart my system to add this new amp and rebuild the component rack.
    I do find the RXV1 to sound and behave very differently to the 2095 and am looking forward to getting it setup properly.
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  9. Danny Owens

    Danny Owens Agent

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    Jeff,
    I don't know what the pre out confiiguation of the 2092 is. Do you have pre outs for all channels? IOW, is the 2092 configured to be able to source signals for all channels; like to an external amplifier? If so, it's not a difficult task. Probably more difficult for me to explain than for you to do it. [​IMG]. If you have a link to a site that has the output configuration that I can refer to, that would be helpful. Can I assume that it is the same configuration as the 2095??
    Danny
    [Edited last by Danny Owens on September 07, 2001 at 08:44 PM]
     
  10. jeff peterson

    jeff peterson Supporting Actor

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    Danny,
    Thanks. The 2092 DOES have outputs for all channels. The manual states for each one "can be connected to input jacks of an external power amplifier".
    Jeff
     
  11. Danny Owens

    Danny Owens Agent

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    Jeff,
    I'll take a stab at trying to put what I did in words.
    First, you need to open the receiver. Once you have it open, you will see the pc board that the pre outs are mounted on. You will need to remove that board. Be sure to note any ribbon cables, wires, ect. Note their orientation on the pre out board.
    Then, take one pre out at at time and follow the following steps.
    1) Plug a rca connector into the first pre out that you want to modify.
    2) Closely observe each of the preout jacks and how they are soldered on the board. You will notice probably 4 solder joints holding the jack on the board.
    3) Take an ohmmeter and find out which pin is shorted to the center pin on the open end of the rca connector at the other end on the wire. That will be the pre out signal. Nothing needs to be done to that one. Make a note of which one it is.
    4) Use the ohmmeter to check which pins are the common (shield). Use the open end of the rca cable and put one end of the ohmmeter on the shield (outer ring) and check for the shorted point where the jack is soldered into the board. There may be two contact points on each jack for shield. If there are, make a note of which pin(s) it/they are.
    5) The left over pin is the input to the amp. Mechanically when an rca connector is plugged in to the jack, it lifts a blade and cuts the signal to the amp section. When it is unplugged, the blade contacts the pre out and passes the signal to the input of the receivers amp section. To confirm that you have the correct pins for send and return, hold the ohmmeter across the two pins. The should be open when a rca connector is plugged in and shorted when the rca cable is pulled out. When you find those two pins, the fun begins.
    ** Note:
    On the RX-V1, I have component video switching. What I did is sacrifice one of the three sets of component out jacks for my returns so I didn't have to drill holes in the chassis. On your receiver, you may want to get some shielded cable small enough to fit through the vent holes so you don't either. You'll end up with three cables as a pigtail coming out of the top of your receiver, but the alternative is to drill holes to mount the return jacks to. You can decide what to do. Either way, you'll be fine.
    6) Take a piece of shielded cable, about 1 foot long, and solder the center conductor to the pin that has been identified as the return (blade). I advise making the solder connections on the solder side of the board. Be very careful not to short to other things with the solder or soldered wire!! The smaller the center conductor on the shielded cable the better.
    7) Solder the shield of the cable to the pin that you have identified as the common (shield) on the jack.
    8) Feed the cable through one of the vent holes in the top of the receiver.
    9) Solder the center conductor on the other end to the center pin of an rca female connector.
    10) Solder the shield to the rca female.
    You are now done with the first channel. Of course, you wont need to do this to the mains or the center channels because I believe they already have a return loop. After you have completed, I would suggest testing them again before remounting the board in the receiver. Use the rca cable and plug it in. Make sure the center pin (pre out) and the other pin (pre in) open. Check to make sure the shield is not shorted to signal.
    The other nice thing about this mod is that when you don't have anything in the loop, the jacks will operate as normal. IOW, you dont have to have a jumper between the send and return to complete the signal path. Sinced you didn't mess with the previously mentioned mechanical operation, it still works. Only when you plug something into one of the output jacks do you have to provide some signal back on the new return to get to the amp section.
    Clear as mud right?? [​IMG]
    Let me know if you have other questions.
    Danny
    [Edited last by Danny Owens on September 08, 2001 at 05:05 PM]
     
  12. jeff peterson

    jeff peterson Supporting Actor

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    Danny, thank you! I do believe I've got it. I'll let you know how I make out. Should I assume that the new input are always hot and acting just as inputs to a standalone power amp; ie, the receiver's volume control is part of the pre-amp stage, therefore, out of the loop? If my assumption is correct, should I have all other input devices off when using my new inputs?
     
  13. Danny Owens

    Danny Owens Agent

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    Jeff,
    Yes the inputs are active. However, anything you put into that loop will work just as if it was a regular send and return. However, if you feed an external DTS decoder into the inputs, you will also backfeed that signal into the preamp unless you have an rca connector in the pre out jack lifting the short of the blade connector. I can't say for sure whether the new inputs will be before the final stage of the preamp or a direct in to the amp. There may be another line level gain stage after the return point, but I don't believe so. If there were, then the volume control would give you control.
    I'm not sure how the external decoder would work. some of them are set up in a loop, like the Milli. For that decoder, you connect the pre out of the receiver to the inputs on the decoder. The outputs of the decoder then go into the return (amp/in). When the decoder is activated, it cuts the pre amp with relays and then becomes the source to the amp. At least, that's how I think the Milli works.
    Does your DVD player have some kind of volume control for the internal decoder outputs??
    I would say that if you got a component that is designed to go between the pre out and amp in point, it will work with this mod.
    I hope this helps
    Danny
     
  14. jeff peterson

    jeff peterson Supporting Actor

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    Danny, I can't tell you how much I appreciate your help. My player doesn't have built in decoders but outputs digital domain DTS. Now (thanks to you) I'm looking at the Milly so I can hear it.
    Guess if I do get a player with decoder or DVD Audio player I'll want to plug dummy RCA plugs into the preamp in so I don't get the backfeed into the preamp.
    Thanks again,
    Jeff
     

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