Yamaha DSP-A1: repair or replace (1 Viewer)

[Julian Reville]

I could cry: my beloved DSP-A1 is starting to act wierd.

1-When first turned on the front display will usually only display the top line, sometimes neither line, othertimes the display is garbled. After warming up and turned off/turned on, the display will be normal.I figure somehow it has developed a bad connection/solder to the display panel.

2-Occasionally one of the speakers will emit a loud pop when the amp is powered on or off; never used to do that.

3-Last night while watching a LD (digital Pro-Logic, not AC-3) I noticed I had sound (L&R) but no dialogue. Turning the amp off and back on fixed it.

I paid over 2 grand for the DSP-A1 and a TX-950 new several years ago, so I am somewhat reluctant to chunk them for a new receiver. If I did get a new receiver, one with a LD AC-3 RF input would be desirable, which means one of Yamaha'a flagships. Are the newer units worth the money, what with the addition of a rear center channel, etc?

What to do?

 

[Brian OK]

Julian,

I owned a DSP-A1 for 5 years and sold it off late last year.
Just a great piece. I never had a problem, but these things do happen. I have read over the years that the display is prone to be the first thing to get funky. That is easily replacable and not an uncommon failure.
Can't address the other anomolies but it needs service. I bought a $45. 5/yr warranty for my unit and it allowed me to get a sub female RCA replaced at NC due to Cardas' tight RCA grips. They also gave it a once over (covered under warranty) and ran the specs on it. Or so they say. I sold it 3 weeks later.
I suspect you did not get a cheapo warranty for it.

I would bring it in to have it looked after, as my thoughts are that you have a gem that is worth getting fixed for a few bucks. I could run you a couple hundred, who knows, but this integrated amp is a keeper and the amp section is just superb. Worth a repair in my mind.

Good Luck,

BOK

 

[Julian Reville]

Thanks, Brian

I think you are right; it's worth at least a look over by a service center; unfortuately, I live in an area where the nearest authorized Yamaha center is 150 miles away. So it's either ship this heavy beast (and we know what UPS and FedEx are like) or take it to a non-authorized repair center and hope they know what they are doing.

Yuck.

 

[SteveFred]

I also own a 3090DSP-A1. I love it. I also had a problem last year with no dialogue. I thought it was the speaker, but found out it was the channel itself, but since I never used 2 speakers for the center, I switched it to the 2nd center channel and have had no problems since. I have had mine since 96 and it costed me 2300(I think). I am eyeing up the RX-Z9 now for my new home theater system after my house is done being built(Aug 2004). They have them on e-bay for around 3500(which I know is still alot for a receiver).

Steve

 

[Wayne A. Pflughaupt]

I’ll second the motion to get it fixed. When you compare that cost to the price of new flagship model, you’ll be way ahead. The Z-9 is an awesome piece for sure (as are all of Yamaha’s flagship models), but I think it’s safe to say its tuner section is pitiful compared to that awesome TX-950.

It’s a drag that you’re so far from a repair facility. You can probably count on shipping to set you back between $50-80 round trip. I guess you’ll have to decide is that is worth the drive or not.

But even if you bought a new one, you’d have to either make the drive or pay the shipping anyway, so there’s really no way around that.

Regards,
Wayne A. Pflughaupt

 

[Marc H]

I'd concur on repairing it. Check with Yamaha and see if you can send it to them. If you are paying shipping anyway, best have them do the work IMHO. If there were firmware updates or any mods, they could do that at the same time.

 

[Swimfan1984]

In agreement. Just got one last week with the same display problems you’re experiencing. Remove the front face plate, revealing the circuit board on the reverse that controls the fluorescent display. You’ll see lines o solder points that correspond to the top and bottom of the screen. Two rows. Look closer and you’ll see open solder joints in most of them. Brush on some flux and Heat up your lightsaber, then reflow those bstards. Worked like a charm for me. Videos online if you need em, just a google away.

Good luck