WTB Canare cable making tools (1 Viewer)

[Andrew Beacom]

Vince,

I have the parts. How will I know if the crimp isn't tight enough? Will it be easy to spot or is it subtle?

 

[Jeff D]

Andrew the crimp is tricky... too loose and the thing will pop off. The idea being to get a complete and solid crimp with the max surface to surface contact across the whole crimp. That's the is the tricky part.

It's easy to crip with other tools and get a crimp that feels good, is it really good? who knows. You can test, but the only real way to know is to use the correct sized tools.

 

[Vince Maskeeper]

Andrew,

Like Jeff said- it's tough. The first sign of a crappy crimp is the connector spinning. If you can grasp the cable by the crimp sleeve and spin the connector, it's probably not tight enough.

But it's important to note that you can also overcrimp, or crush the sleeve. I have a few dies designed for other cables/connector combos that are smaller- and while I can use them in place of the 5c die, it creats a tighter crimp where the sides of the sleeve tend to buckle a little.

This is where I hesitate to use a "close enough" tool- as I can see the difference on overcrimping, the flat edges of the crimped sleeve have a warping or buckle to them--- I have found that the 5c die with the dies shim gives me a tight crimp that doesnt buckle and doesnt let the connector spin...

One other note, I often crimp twice- I clamp down initially and then rotate the crimper 90 degrees and do it again (lining up the hex of course)- so I ensure that I get an even crimp the whole way around.

-Vince

 

[Jeff D]

Vince, I know you didn't mention it specifically, but just for those that don't know... You might not want to do the spin test Vince mentioned on the pieces that are metal and must make contact with other parts. Oil and moisture from yer fingers could cause problems. (Not highly likely, but it can cause problems) I think Vince mentioned he uses gloves when making cables, not a bad idea.

I thought I was the only one that does the double crimp. A trick I learned from the Mint and how they make coins. I thought it would be good for crimps too. =)

 

[Curtis_Edwards]

I am a little confused and hopefully someone can clear this up.

If I do canare cable with canare connectors I use the canare crimp handle and canare stripper tool then I use canare dies..... BUT if I use beldin cable with canare connectors, I use canare crimp handle with ??? stripper and ??? dies?

I am not sure about the beldin cable, canare connector tools (crimper, die, stripper) setup.

Please can someone clarify?

Thanks.

 

[Vince Maskeeper]

Curtis,

Depends on the Belden cable in question...

The Ts-100 stripper will work fine with belden RG6 coax (I use the same setting for 1694/7710 that I use for Canare 5CFB and LV-77)--- and I imagine if you used a different Belden coax, one of the settings on the TS100 would do the job just fine...

As far as crimp/connectors:
Again, I use Belden 1694A/7710 RG6, so my experience is strictly with this cable. If you're looking at a different Belden line, this might not be useful...

Canare suggests a specific connector, the 53A series, for Belden-- (RCAP-53A is the RCA for example). I have, however, seen the MAJORITY of DIY builders use the same RCAP-C5F for belden that they use for Canare 5cfb cable... And even my suppliers gave me C5f series suggestion for Belden, only Canare themselves knew about the 53a and suggested that connector (which my supplier now carries).

As far as dies- again if you choose to use C5f connectors, you can use your normal canare die for this connector (TC-D-5CF)-- if you choose to use the 53A connector (which i prefer)-- you need a different die set that is slightly tighter. The die model number is TC-D-35C. This die also works with a good number of other connectors from Canare, so it's not a bad die to have handy (although it'll run you $90)

 

[Curtis_Edwards]

Vince, thanks for the answer. One more question. Is there a reason to use Belden cable over the canare cable or vice versa? Or is it just a personal preference thing?

Thanks again.

 

[Andrew Beacom]

Vince,

Like Jeff said- it's tough. The first sign of a crappy crimp is the connector spinning. If you can grasp the cable by the crimp sleeve and spin the connector, it's probably not tight enough.

Made my first cable yesterday and I can't do that. I did notice that the connnector did spin before I put the insulation back and crimped the sleeve. Freaked me out a bit wondering if the connector was seated correctly since I hadn't heard the click. I was completely finishing one end of a cable before doing the other. I wonder if the outer sleeve slides while doing that and if it might be better to attach both connectors before crimping both sleeves?

I read what you said about cable testing in your short list. So figuring I need a multimeter I swung into RS on the way home. Now I'm kind of confused.

They had this one for $12: http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...%5Fid=22%2D218

and the sales dude recommended this one $20: http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...%5Fid=22%2D223

Now since it sounds like all I'll be doing is testing resistance(?) they should both do that. Any ideas which one I'd be better of getting? As an electronics newbie the one thats easiest to use might be best.

[edit] I ended up having to do the shim to stop the die rocking. The gap wasn't big enough for even the picture nails I had in the house so I had to be creative. Seems to work fine though.

 

[Vince Maskeeper]

Well, the issue being that if you blow the deal- you're sol-- even if you catch an error - once the connector is clicked over the pin- you won't be able to remove it without runing everything... I usually crimp one end at a tme- and if I mess up one end- I can always cut it off and make a slightly shorter cable out of it.

But there really is no advantage to "waiting" in crimping one end- cause one the connector body is over the pin, there is no turning back.

I'm not overly familiar with the two RS meters mentioned-- so I don't know which to suggest. Maybe someone else could make a suggestion (I have a digtial Craftsman).

 

[Andrew Beacom]

Vince,

But there really is no advantage to "waiting" in crimping one end- cause one the connector body is over the pin, there is no turning back.

I was more thinking that not crimping the 1st sleeve until after the 2nd connector was attached would allow some give in the cable in case it slides when the first connector is pushed on.

You mentioned Behringer CT100. Would that take the place of a multimeter?

 

[Andrew Beacom]

Picked up a multimeter so I can do some testing tonight.

I noticed that the techflex shrinks slightly once it's on the cable. Seems to be about half an inch for every 5. Haven't done a run longer than a foot to verify that though.

Do those people who do a double crimp on the sleeve also double crimp the pin?

 

[Vince Maskeeper]

I usually don't find it necessary on those smaller crimps that are square. It the hex crimps I feel turn out a littl better if i crimp, rotate 45 degrees and crimp again.

-Vince

 

[Andrew Beacom]

Vince,

I don't know if I know what you mean by "shrink." Do you mean length wise? Since it is a braided sleeve (similar to a chinese finger trap)- it will be a different length when laying flat then it will be when wrapped around a cable.

Yes thats what I meant. I need to allow for the loss of length when it's on the cable. I was figuring I need to allow extra when I measure it flat to cut. Seemed easier than trying to put it over the cable, mark a cut, take off cable and cut. I can play around with it just wondered if anyone had a rule of thumb to avoid cutting the techflex to short.

 

[Bob-N]

Andrew, I just started using Techflex, it adds a really nice finish to the cable as you probably already know. I use a really small set of scissors while the techflex is on the cable. You have a bit of play area with the length if your shrink tube your connectors at the ends. I normally have about a half an inch on each side to play with so if I cut it a bit short, I can always cover it with color matched shrink tubing.

Here's my process in a nutshell:
1. Slide the techflex over the cable (after connectors are on but before shrink tubing)
2. Let the techflex form fit to the cable.
3. Adjust open end (already cut side) to where you want it. You could tape it down to help it not slide around but I haven't had to do that yet.
4. Mark/cut with small set of scissors where you want the techflex to end.
5. Pull that end of the techflex back a bit towards the center of the cable to increase it's diameter.
6. Cut it around the cable.
7. Release and shrink tube.

Good luck although it's really easy to do and it's fun.

Bob

 

[Vince Maskeeper]

My process is:
1) Leave the flex on the roll.
2) Slide it over the finished cable (with connectors on), running the cut end all the way along the cable, up to the connector butt on the other end.
3) Mark with my fingernail the other connector butt (where I need to cut). I usually just hold my fingers there- don't bother to mark it in any real way.
4) Slide the flex back a few inches, allowing the "mark" (where I'm holding) to slip back over the connector and off the cable.
5) Cut at my mark.
6) Shrinktube.

So my process is very similar to Bob's- I just slide the sleeve back off the cable a few inches to make it easier to cut (so I don't have to cut around the cable).

This prevents any issues of coming up short, and saves me from cutting too much off the roll. I just slip it on, put my finger where the cut should be- slide it back a couple inches and cut- no problem.


I'm thinking maybe I should shoot an instructional video for Canare crimp building and finishing, including info on coax selections, tools and where to buy dies and supplies. I wonder if there would be a market to sell these from my house on DVD-R. LOL.

 

[Curtis_Edwards]

Vince, I probably would buy one for $5 bucks.

 

[Andrew Beacom]

Vince,

If it was filmed in HD then the whole forum might watch it just to marvel at the clarity of the content.

 

[Vince Maskeeper]

Hmmmm, but who in the world owns a DVHS machine, lol.

 

[Jeff D]

My process is:
1) Leave the flex on the roll.
2) Slide it over the finished cable (with connectors on), running the cut end all the way along the cable, up to the connector butt on the other end.
3) Mark with my fingernail the other connector butt (where I need to cut). I usually just hold my fingers there- don't bother to mark it in any real way.
4) Slide the flex back a few inches, allowing the "mark" (where I'm holding) to slip back over the connector and off the cable.
5) Cut at my mark.
6) Shrinktube.

Vince I'm surprised you aren't using your own templates. I've got a few references cuts for shrink and tech-flex all other cuts are made off of these.

For those that don't wan't to spend $$$ on the hot knife for techflex I picked up a Bernzomatic pocket torch with attachments for $10 with a can of butane. Works great for techflex cuts and other stuff you need a small torch for. =)

 

[Vince Maskeeper]

Since I rarely build the same size cables twice (since I offer building to the inch)- a template seemed to be too much to keep track of... although if I was only building in 2-3 standard lengths it would be a great idea (on this most recent order alone I have over 35 lengths using 3 different sizes of techflex)...