What is the height of your ceiling?

Discussion in 'Home Theater Projects' started by Ian_J, Oct 21, 2003.

  1. Ian_J

    Ian_J Stunt Coordinator

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    Hello,
    I've been planning a dedicated HT in my unfinished basement. I’d like to get some advice in regards to ceiling height.

    I’d like to avoid a drop ceiling (acoustic tile). The problem I'm running into is that by doing so, it leaves me with limited ceiling height and room dimension choices. The center of the basement is separated by steel cross beam and 3 steel support posts. I’d like to build a staggered stud wall under the steel beam. The bottom of the beam is exactly 7’ from the concrete floor. This will of course, leave me with a very low ceiling. I’d estimate a 6’ 6” ceiling by the time the 2x4 studs; resilient channel and 5/8” drywall are installed. I can avoid this by placing the wall outside of the beam instead of directly underneath it. This will give me a gain of approximately 6” of finished ceiling height but it will decrease the width of the room by approximately 12”.

    So, I have to choose between the following "finished space" dimensions

    Under the beam LxWxH
    19' x 12' x 6'6"

    Outside of the beam LxWxH
    19' x 11' x 7'

    I currently have a 65” Mitsubishi (wide screen) rear projection TV.

    My question is for those of you that have built your theatres. Would you prefer the extra couple inches of ceiling height or would you chose the extra 12” of floor space?
     
  2. Ed O'Neill

    Ed O'Neill Second Unit

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    I am not sure I am understanding this correctly but..
    Can't you build underneath The beam and then box-in the beam inside the room. Then you would have the best of both worlds

    Signed
    ED
     
  3. Ian_J

    Ian_J Stunt Coordinator

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    Thanks Ed.

    I've considered doing that but I'd like to maintain clean balanced lines in the room. I'm not hot on the idea of having a boxed beam on one side of the room and a straight wall on the other. I can’t extend the room beyond the beam because my HVAC duct work is directly on the other side.

    Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm, now you have me thinking though. I guess I could create an equal boxed section on the both sides and back of the room. This would make for a nice effect and I could add recessed lighting to both sides of the room without compromising the sound. I guess it would create a "shadow box" effect on the ceiling. Actually, that might be pretty cool. But I wonder how this would influence the room acoustics?

    Thanks,
    Ian
     
  4. Mark McGill

    Mark McGill Stunt Coordinator

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    What you said. That is exactly what I did. I had a heating run on one side and just copied it on the other. I then put indirect lighting with crown molding. It's a great place to run and hide cables to the rears. http://www.f150online.com/galleries/...1281&anum=3963
     
  5. Ed O'Neill

    Ed O'Neill Second Unit

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    WOW

    Now where all on the same page.
    Mark posted of exactly what I was talking about

    My next suggestion was to box in all four sides.

    If you do box them in then you can use the eyeball style recessed lights and that way you coud angle the lights toward the walls, where your new posters will be.

    This of course would save you from buying lighted poster frames.LOL

    Good Luck
    Ed
     
  6. BrianKR

    BrianKR Second Unit

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    Ian,
    I feel your pain concerning your beam and hvac ducts.
    If you view my room in my sig you will see what I came up with to overcome it the best I could. I had a "TON" of obstacles (support beam, HVAC ducts, a big return duct in the room dimensions- which is why I built a hallway within the room, and I had to slant the walls in the rear of the room to allow access to the crawl space under my house for contractors incase I have plumbing or heating problems down the road) but I did not let that deter me from making a nice little room for myself.

    No, it's not a traditional room compared to most HT rooms I have viewed, but for what I had to work with, I am more than pleased with the outcome thus far.

    My opinion is for you to go with the ceiling height and come up with something creative to hide the beam and hvac ducts. But I'm bias :b
     
  7. Ian_J

    Ian_J Stunt Coordinator

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    BrianKR,

    That’s a great room! Its what I’ve had in mind for my room. Do you mind answering a couple of questions?

    What are the room dimensions?
    What size screen?


    Thanks,
    Ian
     
  8. BrianKR

    BrianKR Second Unit

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    I drew a quick layout of my room and added it to my link in my sig. It's the first picture if you want to view it.

    My room overall is 12.4 wide then it opens up 15'8" wide at the entrance. The overall length is 26'6" w/ 8'1" ceiling height and under the soffit I have a 6'4" clearance standing on a 8" riser.

    My screen size is 57". I wanted to go with a 65 but I was originally thought I was going to go with a 20' room. I am shopping around for a FP & Screen though.
     
  9. Neil Joseph

    Neil Joseph Lead Actor

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    Real Name:
    Neil Joseph
    12 feet!!!

    Which posed some design challenges because of the ceiling mounted pj.
     
  10. Randy Laporte

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    You'll have plenty of room for a great theater, I built my theater in my basement also, and after wiring, pipes and drop ceiling, my ceiling height is 6'1 at my raised back seat platform. taller people just sit in the lower level seats where it's 6'9. I went with a rear projection TV in the wall, just so I wouldn't have a projector hanging at head banging level. My room is around 15 x 25, with a 4 x9 room behind the tv wall, to get to wiring and components in case of problem. I have step by step pics on my site:
    my theater
     

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