What Eclosure will you use for the UBER-15???

Discussion in 'Archived Threads 2001-2004' started by JimRHIT, Aug 6, 2002.

  1. JimRHIT

    JimRHIT Stunt Coordinator

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    I am getting too excited over here.
    It seems like it was just last year that I built my Adire Aligned Tempest, oh wait...it was a year ago!!! Oh well, Dan has got me again. I think that he has got a bunch of us!!!
    So, to make it easier for everyone to see what we will all be doing with this amazing new driver: I have started this new thread.
    Please post your plans here:
    Including - Box Design (sealed, PR, or even some rediculous 8" ports if you want.)
    - Amplification planned
    - any other personal touches you think sound fun.
    Thanks guys...and good luck with the MDF dust...heehee..I cannot wait till Sept. 16
    Jim Walter[​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  2. Dustin B

    Dustin B Producer

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    Well the only way I'll be building one soon is if I win the naming contest (but saying that just lost it for me I'm sure).

    Mind you, it would be the most expensive free thing I ever received as I would build a 6ft^3 PR enclosure and power it with a kilowatt proamp (QSC RMX1450 or something similar). The PRs and amp would end up costing more than my Tempest sub did :p)

    Would it be better to go with a pair of Stryke 18" PRs or three PR15s? I guess it comes down to what will be more desireable, all PRs antipodal, or the extra 3-4L of Vp from the three PR15s.
     
  3. I would have to say a 17" cube with a linkwitz transform=).
     
  4. Chris Tsutsui

    Chris Tsutsui Screenwriter

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    I would go passive radiator with the Stryke and design an enclosure so it stands up and is front firing.

    This way I'll be able to see the throw of the driver and I can tell people that those are 18" drivers in there. (cough* passive)
     
  5. JimRHIT

    JimRHIT Stunt Coordinator

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    Forgot to post my preference:

    I would like to go with dual 16"-17" cubes...juiced with the ever impressive QSC PLX3402. That said, I presently have a budget for one of the cubes, but I think that I will build the other box at the same time. (more incentive to buy the next :b ) We shall see. By the way, what would you think to be a fair price for my tempest? Selling it to my best friend.

    Take it easy and talk to you later...Jim Walter
     
  6. Dustin B

    Dustin B Producer

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    Well, if it's your best friend I'd just ask for the actual materials cost or a little less.
     
  7. EDIT: strike that. let me finish the complex modeling first so that the EQing will have an accurate driver responce to work with [​IMG]
     
  8. Shawn Solar

    Shawn Solar Supporting Actor

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    Just finishing my BP1503(like as of 5minutes ago) I can say That I would probably opt for a sealed box. I am just running the blueprint of one side of my 1200watt amp and can say that I will probably not need the extra 3db of gain from bridging it(which is good as the right side is acting goofy right now). I think any headroom Would be wasted anyway as I probably never go that loud. So I say 3cuft sealed with 1000watts and a little boost on the bottom.
    Though If I had my own place an infinite baffle looks mighty tempting. Two pair in each front corner(with a closet behind) ran off a k2 or something. Oh and no grills so they are the first thing you see when you walk in[​IMG]
     
  9. Seth_L

    Seth_L Screenwriter

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    4 Adire PR15s in a 200L box with 2400W from a QSC PLX2402. Box tuned to about 17Hz.

    Seth
     
  10. Shawn
    ..any luck with the noise issue with the enclosure?
     
  11. Shawn Solar

    Shawn Solar Supporting Actor

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    Anthony,
    Yes I got it fixed. I had mistakenly put the T-nuts on the wrong side and that prevented the woofer from getting a flush surface mount. So I switched them to the other side and added a closed cell rubber pad to the back edge of the woofer(it is about 3/16" thick and about 1/4"-3/8" wide)
    Two length's ran side by side came flush to the outside edge of the woofer. Locked in with T-nuts and 3" screws provided a great seal. I also use threaded rod through the enclosure. Where the rods came out as feet had an air leak. I just got some washers and use No-more-nails to seal them at the baffle.
    It should be said never put anything on top of the box by the port that you do not want to be gobbled up by the huge port. Cause then you have flip it over take the driver out and put it back together again. And no, don't ask me how I Know[​IMG]
    Thanks again
     
  12. Dustin B

    Dustin B Producer

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    Not quick enough on the draw huh :p)

    I tried the paper towel thing ontop the port without a grille thing too. Wanted to see it go flying. Completely forgetting that its a slug of air that just moves back and forth in the port. I managed to grab it just before it was about to go in. The advantage though is now I'll never forget that a port isn't blowing air around your house, just vibrating a slug of it.
     

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