Video Switch needed

Discussion in 'Gaming' started by Brian E, Nov 19, 2002.

  1. Brian E

    Brian E Screenwriter

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    I'm going to be in the market for a video switcher of some kind and figured you guys would have a recommendation. The plan is to be able to hook up my XBox, Dreamcast, GC (getting tomorrow) and possibly N64 up to one composite hookup on my receiver. It would be neat if I could hook my Atari 2600 up to it, but I don't think that will happen.

    Is the one Best Buy sells any good?

    Thanks
     
  2. dave_brogli

    dave_brogli Screenwriter

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    The one that radio shack or walmart sells is cheaper and just as good. Thats what I use for my component connection,[​IMG]
     
  3. Eric Samonte

    Eric Samonte Screenwriter

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    Is there a component video switcher available that would pass a good progressive scan signal? I ask because I have the Xbox hooked up directly to the TV. I tried passing both it and a progscan DVD player through my Denon 3802 but the picture actually sucks.
     
  4. Brian Ruth

    Brian Ruth Supporting Actor

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    The composite (RCA) switcher that we sell (the one near all the PS2 stuff) is pretty good, though Dave is probably right that you can find a cheaper one at Radio Shack.

    We also have a couople of cheaper ones, I think - check near all the TV stuff.
     
  5. Allen_Appel

    Allen_Appel Second Unit

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    This is my first post to this forum. I chose this thread to bump as I am trying to consolidate my gaming consoles (PS2, GameCube, Dreamcast and Xbox) into a single component input of my Mitsubishi WT-46807 HDTV. I don't want to spend $150+ on a dedicated component switcher, so I'm taking the low-end approach and using the cheaper Pelican 5-port S-Video system selector, using the standard A/V inputs as pass-throughs for my component cables ( great advice I picked up from this forum! ). However, I didn't see any advice on how to deal with the audio. Do I need to buy another Pelican selector and piggyback it with the other, using only the audio inputs and manually switch each corresponding unit at the same time?
     
  6. Aaron Copeland

    Aaron Copeland Second Unit

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  7. EdR

    EdR Second Unit

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    I bought the JVC JX-S111 component/S-video switch. It has 3 component, and 2 S-video inputs (one S-video is on the front for easy access).
    [​IMG]
    I have my GC, Xbox, and Panasonic RP82 DVD player connected to the component ins (all in progressive), my PS2 is connected via S-video and one S-video free, which I often use with my DV camera.
    It only has composite audio I/O, but that's all I'm using at the moment.
    The video outs go to my NEC LT260 projector, and I can't say I see any degredation in video quality. I got it for $75 at www.etronics.com
     
  8. Jay Mitchosky

    Jay Mitchosky Producer

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    I also have the S111 - bought for just this purpose - and absolutely recommend it. I had posted a detailed review on the forum way back but I think that section is now gone. Here is the reprint...
    __________________________________________________ _
    I read about this nifty product on another thread in the Games Forum. Many of us new Xbox owners share the dilemma of wanting to use this console's HD outputs but have run out of inputs on our monitors (mine is currently occupied by a DVD player and HDTV satellite receiver). The JVC JX-S111 A/V selector is an excellent, easily integrated solution that works exactly as advertised.
    First off, kudos to etronics. Not only did they provide the best price I found on the 'Net (US$74.99) but they also offered excellent service. When I decided to order this unit they (along with every other Internet supplier) were out of stock. Fortunately they offer an e-mail service when a selected product is back in stock. Just a few days after I requested notice I received an e-mail indicating the S111s were available. I called, ordered, and quickly received shipping confirmation via e-mail. The bigger surprise is that my package arrived only two days after I placed my order (from the US to Canada no less) pristinely packaged in an oversized box stuffed with foam peanuts. Although I have only dealt with this site on one occasion I have to give them an unqualified thumbs up. Thanks to the folks at etronics.
    FIT AND FINISH
    Out of the box the S111 is a very sturdy unit, housed in brushed aluminum with a heavy plastic faceplate. RCA and S-Video connections are standard grade and appear to be gold plated to prevent corrosion. They are seated tight in their housings and do not move when pressure is applied. The five input selector switches up front have a solid feel when depressed. The unit is heavier than I expected – it weighs in at 3 1/2 lbs. but feels like heftier than that number would suggest. In the interest of keeping this thread's load time to a minimum click the following links for product shots...

    FEATURES
    There's not much to elaborate on here. This is a five input switcher for both audio and video signals. It can accommodate three (yep, three) component video signals and two S-or-composite signals. One of the S/composite connections is located in the front - a nice convenience feature for quick access to camcorders or such when the S111 is rack mounted. Output jacks are provided for both the component and S/composite signals. Note that the respective video signals are passed in their native format to the outputs – component is component, S-Video is S-Video, and composite is composite. There is no conversion from one signal to another (something that could not be properly achieved at anywhere near this price point). This is a passive switcher so no power cable is required. Pictures of the connections are provided in the following links...

    Note that the component connections are specified for 30mHz bandwidth - this should be fine for 480i/p sources but is not enough for full resolution 1080i or 720p. In other words a progressive scan DVD player or 480p Xbox games should not suffer signal degradation, at least at smaller screen sizes. I'll be keeping my HDTV receiver running straight into my TV and have my (still interlaced) DVD player and Xbox switched through the S111. The downside is that 1080i Xbox games (whenever they arrive) will suffer a bit of high frequency rolloff, but being a video game I'm not overly concerned. If you demand full HDTV compatibility from your switcher be prepared to shell out more than US$75. Or utilize the video sections of the newer receivers/processors that support full bandwidth component switching. The composite video frequency response is listed at 10mHz (although how much worse can that signal get?!!) and audio frequency response is listed at 0Hz-100kHz.
    For those interested in the size of the S111 I have taken some comparative pictures. The specified dimensions are 14 11/16" x 2 5/32" x 8 11/64" (WHD). I find it easier to use the following references to illustrate size...

    CONNECTIONS AND PERFORMANCE
    My rack is full so I have been relegated to a mobile Xbox - haul it out to play, store it to the side when not in use. To this end I have tried to hide as many connections as possible in keeping with my clean A/V setup (see HT link below). My Xbox HD pack resides behind my TV. Both the main system connector and A/C cable for the Xbox sit just under the front lip of my RPTV's grille - when it's time to play I just reach under and pull them forward. Behind the scenes the component cables from my DVD player and Xbox HD Pack are connected to input one and two (respectively) of the S111. The S111 also sits just under the lip of the TV's grille. By default I leave it selected to Video 1 so as not to mess up my system's automation with the Philips Pronto.

    When I connect the Xbox I just poke a finger under the grille and select Video 2. This may sound like a hassle, but the previous iteration had me a) hauling out the Xbox, b) connecting the Advanced A/V Pack to the S-Video and audio convenience inputs of my S-VHS player, and c) selecting the front input on my S-VHS player. Now all I do is click one button. Because this is a passive unit there is no heat generated so I'm not concerned about it being located in a relatively tight space. Also connected behind the set is the optical digital cable to the HD Pack.
    My primary concern is any adverse impact on DVD video performance. Games are games - I don't approach them with critical viewing in mind. DVD is another thing. In my system (Toshiba SD-9000 DVD player, Toshiba 50HX70 RPTV, MIT component video cables for DVD-to-S111 and S111-to-RPTV connections, TV calibrated up the whazoo) I cannot discern any difference in DVD video performance. Colors are still true, grayscale uniformity is still tight, black levels and contrast seem to be unchanged, detail is status quo, and there is no evidence of video noise or interference. On a larger screen or FPTV rig there may be noticeable differences, but for 480i from my DVD player (and 480p from the Xbox) everything is fine. On screen the change from one input to another is almost immediate following a brief (fraction of a second) transition to black.
    CONCLUSION
    The JVC S111 switcher works exactly as it is intended. It allows me to use three component video devices with two component connections on my RPTV with no perceptible signal degradation. Its limitations are that it can't support full HDTV signals given its relatively limited bandwidth, and the lack of remote control capability may be an issue for some users as it hampers automation efforts. It is built well and easily fits into most (if not all) systems. Connections are a breeze and the addition of the front panel inputs allows for added convenience and setup flexibility. The price is right at US$74.99 (from etronics at least - I've seen it as high as US$129 at other online vendors). If you're long on devices but short on inputs this may be the right solution for you. Highly recommended.
     
  9. EdR

    EdR Second Unit

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  10. Allen_Appel

    Allen_Appel Second Unit

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    Thanks for the quick replies. I like the JVC, but I'm trying to avoid its higher cost and I like having the four inputs (for GC, DC, Xbox, PS2) of the Pelican switcher, even if it's not really component-ready. Of my TV's three component inputs, one is for my HDTV Dish satellite, the other I'd like to keep free for a prog-scan DVD, and the third will be dedicated to gaming. My receiver is a Sony STR-DE725, and I currently have the PS2 plugged into the digital audio, though I figure to change that to the Xbox. I guess my problem (if you want to call it that) is I have too many game consoles and I want to run them all on component cables. I guess I'll do the piggyback.
     
  11. Aaron Copeland

    Aaron Copeland Second Unit

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  12. Allen_Appel

    Allen_Appel Second Unit

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    Thanks for the optical switcher link. I think I'll get this one (Recoton ADS1000 ) as I've finally decided to go with the true component switcher, and I'll be buying that from Etronics as well. I read in some thread that one of the innovators of the "composite as component" switcher has changed his mind about the video quality. However, this alters my plans for my game console hook-ups. My Mitsubishi WT-46807 has three total YPrPB component inputs. One of these inputs is labelled DTV, which also has H and V sync connections. Since my JVC Dish 6000 HD satellite receiver uses only the YPrPb inputs, can I switch it to one of the other component inputs and plug my Dreamcast into the DTV input, using a VGA breakout cable? Or is there something unique about the Mits DTV input for TV signals? Where can I get a VGA breakout cable? Do I need anything other than the Dreamcast VGA adapter?
    Thanks for all the help thus far. Stumbling onto this forum has done wonders for my home theater plans, much to the amusement/consternation of my wife.
     
  13. hef

    hef Auditioning

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    i,ve put a few other posts elsewere on this forum, but i'm still not sure about which switcher to get. i like the sound of the JVC jx-s111, but is the bandwidth to low for my large TV?(i have the hitachi 65twx20b) i don't want to buy something that won't put out the better image for my DVD and XBOX. or is the inlay or audio auth" the better way to go because of the higher bandwidth?

    thanks
     
  14. EdR

    EdR Second Unit

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    hef
    I have an NEC LT260 projector, in my setup I have a 75" image and I don't see any problems with the JVC switch at all. As I said above, I played THPS4 on my Xbox at 720p and it looked amazing.
    I'm not sure what to look for to see if switch didn't have enough bandwidth for 720p, but I saw nothing in the image that looked like distortion.
     
  15. Rob Varto

    Rob Varto Supporting Actor

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  16. Jay Mitchosky

    Jay Mitchosky Producer

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  17. Michael J. C.

    Michael J. C. Auditioning

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  18. Michael J. C.

    Michael J. C. Auditioning

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    FOR THE LOVE OF GOD THAT'S BIG!!!

    Sorry. I just got mine in the mail 2 days ago and it works like a charm.

    Highly recommended.
     
  19. GregAK

    GregAK Agent

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    I have a question somewhat related to this topic. I am getting an Xbox to use with a HT system. Can I run an optical audio cable to my receiver and also run audio to the TV in case I don't want to hear the Xbox through the speakers or if I want to listen to a CD instead?? Do you have to choose one audio out format on the Xbox? Also, I'm curious what source you guys connect your games systems to on your receivers. I don't have an Xbox source so I have to use one of the existing ones. Any favorites?

    And what's this - now it's not good to use a $15 passive composite switch box for component? Well, I'll just have to suffer until I can afford one of the expensive component switch boxes.
    Greg
     
  20. GregAK

    GregAK Agent

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    I have a question somewhat related to this topic. I am getting an Xbox to use with a HT system. Can I run an optical audio cable to my receiver and also run audio to the TV in case I don't want to hear the Xbox through the speakers or if I want to listen to a CD instead?? Do you have to choose one audio out format on the Xbox? Also, I'm curious what source you guys connect your games systems to on your receivers. I don't have an Xbox source so I have to use one of the existing ones. Any favorites?

    And what's this - now it's not good to use a $15 passive composite switch box for component? Well, I'll just have to suffer until I can afford one of the expensive component switch boxes.
    Greg
     

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