Video Essentials compatibility with DLP (1 Viewer)

[Dennis Nicholls]

I've used my trusty copy of Video Essentials (original DVD version) for years now to set up numerous CRT direct view and front projector systems.

Last week I bought myself a Samsung DLP RP (yeah, I know, boo, hiss).

Somehow I'm confused about how to set up the DLP set using VE. VE has two patterns/methods for setting contrast. The first one is to set the contrast below when a vertical line bends (i.e. exceeds the capability of cheap power supplies). The second one is to set the contrast below the visual indication of "pixel bloom".

The problem is that I can set the contrast on my DLP RP up to 100% and never get a line bend or any perceivable pixel bloom. How the hell do you set contrast on a DLP?

VE also has a test pattern/method for setting the sharpness control. You set the sharpness to avoid noticeable edge enhancements. But on my DLP set I can go from 0% to 100% on the sharpness control and never see any edge enhancements.

Stupid question time....how does one setup a DLP RP using a test disk such as VE?

 

[Massimo N]

I have a DLP Projector (BENQ8700+) and to set the contast, I use the THX optimizer found on many DVDs (ie: Starwar). The first THX video test patterns show 6 white squares. Set your contrast so that you can clearly make out the 6 squares. Set the contrast too high and you will start to clip you whites making the squares blend together.

The bloom effect only works with a CRT display.

The rest of the calibration (colour, contrast, colour decoder, greyscale, sharpness, overscan, etc), I use AVIA and double check with DVE.

 

[Allan Jayne]

For setting contrast on a DLP (or LCOS or LCD or plasma) ignore the "needle" pattern (thin upright line that may bend) and the "blooming" pattern (some white and gray squares that may expand slightly).

The rest of the patterns on Video Essentials or AVIA are still usable.

Find the step gray scale pattern and make sure all the steps are distinguishable.

Calibration may differ for viewing in a bright room versus in a dark room. The reason why "experts" say you should not watch TV in a completely dark room is because a much lower contrast is desirable and most people don't want to keep re-adjusting for daytime versus nighttime viewing.

Beyond that it is all personal preference.

Video hints:
http://members.aol.com/ajaynejr/video.htm

Even for CRT, after using the "needle" and "blooming" patterns, and for plasma, you should set the contrast somewhat lower to prolong the life of the set.

 

[Dennis Nicholls]

So basically crank up the contrast until one or more gray steps blend together, then back off a skotch....

I set the sharpness the other day with a favorite calibration scene from Casablanca: the close-up of the check Rick signs when he's introduced. This close-up is in incredibly sharp focus - I've also used it to tweak the focus on my CRT FP - but has other uses. I just lowered the sharpness until the halo around the characters disappeared. This took place at around 5 on a scale of 100 with my Samsung.

 

[ChrisWiggles]

Setting contrast you want to raise the level up as high as you can until the brightest white parts of a pattern (I'm not familiar with the original VE patterns) clip or colorshift, then set the level just below this point.

You can set your black level extremely accurately on a DLP by observing mirror dithering and aligning a black pattern (video 16) to that.

 

[Massimo N]

Do not use the grey step pattern. You will definitely set contrast too high (clipping your whites). Use the THX video 1 pattern (6 white boxes).

When you clip your whites, you loose a lot of detail. If you want to test this, after you use the grey bar as a guide, go to the THX test pattern and the pattern will look like one big white square, not 6 distint squares. Bump your contrast down until you see the 6 squares.

Remember, that contrast and black level work together (to some extent). After you set your contrast, set you black level (brightness) and then confirm you contrast.