unfinished Tumult enclosure pics

Discussion in 'Home Theater Projects' started by Brad Dixon, Jun 19, 2003.

  1. Brad Dixon

    Brad Dixon Stunt Coordinator

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    I was hoping to finish before I left on a family vacation but things didn't work out. Box will be 3/4" Baltic Birch with 1.5" speaker baffle. Volume will be 117L - 120L net.

    It's hard to see but we did dado grooves for the large internal braces and baffles. We simply cut the small pieces (that tie the internal shelf braces together) to size, no dado grooves there. For the top and bottom we used a few dowels.

    This pic shows the speaker baffle being laminated together.

    [​IMG]

    This shows all braces in place and Tumult sitting in its cut-out. Sorry about it being so dark, guess I forgot to use the flash.
    [​IMG]

    I hope it's braced enough, it's going to serve as an end table also.

    Brad
     
  2. TimForman

    TimForman Supporting Actor

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    Yeah, I hope it braced enough too, riiiight. If it isn't I don't know what more you could do. Nice concept. Lots of bracing without restricting the airflow by having a large centrally located opening through the middle. Should work great!
     
  3. You do know that with that little bracing, your walls will be flexing like crazy!
     
  4. Brad Dixon

    Brad Dixon Stunt Coordinator

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    Let me rephrase the bracing comment. I hope it's enough so that the lamp and anything placed on it won't vibrate. I'm sure the panels won't flex. What I'm not sure of is if items setting on a sub vibrate because the panels flexing or if it's resonance or something. I'm sure that comment shows my ignorance on the subject lol.
    As an example: my current sub sits under the end table. If the sub touches the leg of the table it causes the lamp on the end table to vibrate. That's what I'm trying to avoid as much as possible, items on the new sub from vibrating.
    If they do vibrate I'll probably use an earlier suggestion for rubber pads/feet on the lamp.

    Take it easy,
    Brad
     
  5. Seth_L

    Seth_L Screenwriter

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    I hope you didn't cut the hole for the Tumult to 14 and 1/8th" like I did.

    The enclosure will vibrate. The driver's movement will cause the enclosure to vibrate. I'm not sure how much, but it will probably be enough to cause the lamp to walk across the sub until it hits the floor. Also, the sound of the lamp vibrating is going to get really old real quick.
     
  6. Brian Bunge

    Brian Bunge Producer

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    Seth,

    What's wrong with cutting the hole to 14.125"? That's what I did for 3 different subs and had absolutely no trouble.

    Brad,

    That's a kick ass looking enclosure. The only thing I might have done differently is to use MDF for the other shell and then the BB for the bracing. With a driver with this kind of excursion having a heavy enclosure is pretty important. So the added weight of the MDF is a good thing.
     
  7. Craig Woodhall

    Craig Woodhall Supporting Actor

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    looks great, should sound even better.. [​IMG]
     
  8. Kyle Richardson

    Kyle Richardson Screenwriter

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    Looks like a very well built enclosure!
     
  9. Shawn Solar

    Shawn Solar Supporting Actor

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    Sticky tack. That blue stuff. On the bottom of anything that sits on the sub. 3 buck fix. Works great for everything. behind wall pictures and for fixing stands to the bottom of speakers. Everything that you can't use blue tack on... use duct tape[​IMG]
     
  10. Seth_L

    Seth_L Screenwriter

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  11. Brian Bunge

    Brian Bunge Producer

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    I used threaded inserts and 10-32 cap head screws and it worked fine. I don't remember if I placed the drivers (I built 3 of these) back in the same exact orientation or not, but I didn't have any trouble installing the drivers whatsoever.
     
  12. Seth_L

    Seth_L Screenwriter

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    I used 10-24 with a washer, lockwasher, and wingnut on the back. The hole pattern was so far off symmetrical it wasn't funny.
     
  13. Brad Dixon

    Brad Dixon Stunt Coordinator

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    Seth,
    We used 10-24 t-nuts and made the cutout 14 1/8". It fits great, there is very little extra room, it is possible I used a smaller dia. router bit than the jig was designed for.

    How do you folks drill the holes for the t-nuts? Since we couldn't do them on the drill press and it was to thick to use the plunge router(if dad even had a bit the proper dia.) we used a jig for a drill that allowed it to act like a plunge router. I didn't know such a thing existed. We marked all the holes and then set the jig up and pressed down on the drill. Each hole was pretty much dead on.

    As far as the compliments on the box go, thanks but honestly my dad deserves them. Dont want folks thinking I'm building this alone or that I'm even the primary builder. I'm not much of a wood worker. When "we" did the dowels my job was to make sure he had a cold drink when "we" got done hehe.

    For the finish, I'm planning on something similar to Anthony's except the panels will be honey maple or similar with cherry(not the deep red) trim pieces.

    Brad
     
  14. Brian Bunge

    Brian Bunge Producer

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    Brad,

    I used the "portable drill press" thing to drill the holes in the 3 I built as well. I actually started the holes slightly with the driver in place. Then I pulled the driver and finished drilling all the way through.

    Oh, and pray to God you never have any trouble with those T-nuts. If you have one tear loose you'll have tons of fun trying to get the driver out. That's why I always use threaded inserts.
     
  15. Patrick Sun

    Patrick Sun Moderator
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  16. Brian Bunge

    Brian Bunge Producer

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    Yep, that's it. Pat, yours is different from mine a bit though. Yours looks a little more sturdy and may have a slightly larger base. But they both work the same.
     
  17. Pete Mazz

    Pete Mazz Supporting Actor

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    Nice work, but that looks like regular 7 ply plywood, not BB (which would have 13 plys).

    If you want to leave a lamp on it, better use a "rough service" bulb that will be able to withstand the vibration w/o constantly burning out.

    Pete
     
  18. Greg Yeatts

    Greg Yeatts Second Unit

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    Brian

    I had a screw strip and stick in a T-nut on my Tumult enclosure. Getting the thing out was a chore. First I used a Craftsman Screw-Out. This seemed like a good idea at the time. This actually spun the T-nut loose from the MDF. Then I had to drill out the screw head. Now I have to try to glue in another T-nut. [​IMG]
     
  19. Brian-K-Owens

    Brian-K-Owens Stunt Coordinator

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    I agree with Seth on the hole size, I put my XXX 15 in the Tumult enclosure, and 14.125 is a little too big. . . .My enclosure is built for a flush mount front (that hole was perfect), so it kept the driver centered while I predrilled holes and prevented any problems, but if I was starting over, the hole would be less than 14.125.

    I have had the driver in and out 3 times, and unless I accidently hit the same orientation the second two times, there is nothing wrong with the hole pattern on my driver.

    If there is a difference between the 12 spoke basket on the XXX and the Tumult, then pretend like you never read this message.[​IMG]

    Brian
     
  20. Seth_L

    Seth_L Screenwriter

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    If you use the rubber gasket there The driver has a lot of slop if you truely have a 14.125" hole. I used a custom circle jig and the hole was exactly 14.125" and the Tumult could move a good 1/4" side to side and up and down. 14.125 would be a good measurement if the gasket wasn't there due to the weld/bevel around the metal frame's lip.
     

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