Tough veneering question (1 Viewer)

[Brian J Dupuis]

Well, tough for a veneering newbie like myself.
I recently placed an order for the kit I'm going to use for my mains (the http://www.audioc.com/speakers/SapphireIII/sap3.htm
So, I have a little cube with 3/8" roundovers. I'm anticipated rounding out the edges to at least 1/2" or as high as 3/4" in order to make this veneering thing a bit easier, but I've run into a question. Let's say I choose to have the veneer wrap around over the top from the amplifier cutout side in this picture. Fine, I can handle having the grain of the veneer be "horizontal" across that direction to make the wrapping easier. Now, what do I do about the driver side and the opposite side in terms of applying the veneer? In other words, do I apply the "big" piece of wrap-around veneer such that it goes over the roundovers along both sides and somehow carefully cut for the corners, or do I have the wrap-around piece only go to the edge of the roundovers and apply a piece on the driver side and opposite the driver that overlaps and carefully cut the corners on that somehow?
Sorry. I'm lost with this.

 

[James Mudler]

Have you thought about painting knots? You have done such a great job so far....murphys law and all.

 

[Brian Bunge]

Brian,

What about running the sub enclosure through your table saw and cut out the hardwood corners? Then you could veneer over the existing panels and add new solid wood corners made from pine or whatever.

Also, what made you decide to build the Sapphire III's over the Jags? The Jags are only $100 more, although the cabinets are a bit harder to construct.

Brian

 

[Brian J Dupuis]

Quote:

Basically appearance and cabinet size. That Jag I'm sure is a fine speaker, but at 20"x20"x11.5" (and a funky shape to boot), there's no way I was going to get any WAF on it at all. The 16"x10"x10" of the Sapphire was about the limit I could get away with . And I actually do like the looks of the Sapphire better than the Jaguar. I'm hopeful that the sound will meet my expectations.

 

[Hank Frankenberg]

"I'll have the only "knotty pine" finished speakers in the free world."

You got that right!

Anyway, since the boss has spoken and you've got to do it, I'd take Brian's suggestion and start over with those corners. BTW, I've never seen knotty pine veneer, but wish you good luck. That sub cabinet looks good as is....

 

[Brian J Dupuis]

BTW, I've never seen knotty pine veneer, but wish you good luck. That sub cabinet looks good as is...

Believe it or not TapeEase has "Knotty Pine" veneer. Frightening to think I'm not blazing new trails, isn't it? I think it'll be an interesting experience if nothing else. Thanks for the input, Hank.

 

[Brian Bunge]

Yep, rabbeting out the hardwood would work too!

Also, you've got the dimensions wrong on the Jaguar cabinets. The cabinet plans that come with the kits (the old J2 Jaguars) state that they are 16"H x 10.5"W x 17.5"D so the front baffle dimensions are almost identical. I helped a friend build these so I knew those dimensions you stated weren't right.

Plus, I'm not sure which would be a bigger PITA, flush mounting the square frame driver for the Sapphires or the funky angles on the Jag cabinets. My biggest role in helping with the Jags was as a second head to make sure we cut all the MDF right, routing all the driver recesses, through holes and actual crossover assembly. That Scan-Speak 7" driver makes me think the added cost and hassle of funky angles makes the Jag hard to beat. I'll have to hear some Sapphires soon to really decide!

Brian

 

[Brian J Dupuis]

I'll have to hear some Sapphires soon to really decide!

Yeah, I'm nervous and excited at the same time. It's a big leap of faith to order this stuff having never heard them. But all the reviews I've read have been exceedingly positive, so I figured it couldn't be truly awful.

 

[Jeffrey_S]

Brian,

I built a pair of ACI Saphire III's about three years ago. It was my second speaker building attempt. They came out great! (I used 1" MDF throughout however, eventhough 3/4" was recommended. Of course I kept the internal volume the same.) At the time, I was using a pair of Klipsch KLF-20's as mains and intended these as sides or surrounds but much to my suprise, they sounded better to my ears than the Klipsch speakers. Now I'm sure that if I wasn't using a sub the Klipsch speakers would have sounded better, but I was. In short, I think you will like them. If you have any questions about dimensions, etc. just let me know.

Jeff

 

[Brian J Dupuis]

I built a pair of ACI Saphire III's about three years ago. It was my second speaker building attempt. They came out great!

Hey, thanks Jeff! That puts me more at ease. Got any photos of them lying around somewhere? I'd love to see how yours came out. I'll save the questions for when I actually get the kit in and get underway. Most likely it'll be something feverishly written at about 10:30pm when I'm covered in MDF dust .
Out of curiosity, what are your current mains?

 

[Vince Bray]

Believe it or not TapeEase has "Knotty Pine" veneer

Does the boss already know that you sourced the veneer? Please say no...
BTW, very nice work!

 

[Mark Krawiec]

hey, what are you all, a bunch of wood snobs
i think pine looks great, certainly as good looking as oak, 'course that's only my opinion. you can find veneer, but it's hard because pine is so soft, and well, the knots are a pain with veneer.
anyway, i think cutting it out on a tablesaw really is your best bet. i would try to use a harder wood in the corners-either a light wood and hope your wife doesn't notice or go for the dark borders effect with a darker wood. pine in the corners will likely get bunged up big time. (of course, if you're really into the rustic pine look, or, as we call it in our family room, mexican colonial, this is kinda cool. for sure, not everybody likes this.)
hey, i'd by a pine sub over an oak sub anyday.

 

[Brian Bunge]

Well, I've built several Emeralds, a pair of Opals, the Jags and several subs using the SV12 driver, so I am apparently the resident ACI kit expert. I love all the speakers and think that they are excellent values in their respective markets. This experience makes me pretty confident that the Sapphire III's will be excellent as well. After all, I read one review where the reviewer kept the Sapphire III's and ditched his Sonus Faber Concertos, which were nearly twice the price.

Let us know how they turn out. My next upgrade is almost certainly Jags!

Brian

 

[Jeffrey_S]

Brian,
These are some quick pictures I took. I think I still have the complicated router jig I built for the woofer. In the background on one of the pics you can see the ACI Titan subwoofer I made. That was my first DIY speaker project. The last pic shows my last project: A center channel based on NorthCreekMusic's Rhythm speaker. Right now I'm using my Saphires as my mains but I will be building a pair of Rhythms within the next year.

Jeff

 

[Brian Bunge]

Jeff,

Those look sweet! Guess I should have said one of the resident ACI kit Experts!

Brian

 

[Vince Bray]

hey, what are you all, a bunch of wood snobs

You got it, buddy!
But seriously, I have thought of doing the pine thing for fun, but I kept hanging up on the softness and the vulnerability of veneer. Even hard wood veneer gets nicked and chipped, the pine just seems too soft to hold up. I guess with the rounded edges that would help, but the pine will definitely get bruised through daily wear and tear. Have you tried explaining to the SO that everything doesn't have to match? I started working on that years ago and we've made some good progress.

 

[Jeffrey_S]

Thanks Brian B.

Jeff

 

[MikePon]

I have built a stereo cabinet and a TV stand for a buddy of mine in solid knotty pine as per his request. He loves the look of knotty pine with an oil based varathane (oil based will give a gold tone to the wood).

The items were built at least 6 yrs. ago and still look good today. They are not beat up at all. (no kids mind you)

I hate working with the pine as it is too soft and difficult to get a really nice finish.

I would use the above suggestions and cut out the corners and put real pine in. I also like the suggestion of a contrasting wood to the pine like walnut or purpleheart. That would look awesome!!!

 

[Brian J Dupuis]

Have you tried explaining to the SO that everything doesn't have to match?

Actually, I might be able to get away with a maple finish like the flooring in that second picture. She's mentioned that finish a couple of times, so I might start pushing that angle. I think either one would be okay, but I'd probably like the maple finish more. We'll see how it goes .

 

[Brian J Dupuis]

I would use the above suggestions and cut out the corners and put real pine in. I also like the suggestion of a contrasting wood to the pine like walnut or purpleheart. That would look awesome!!!

Now there's a fine idea too, Mike. Thanks for your input!