TOSHIBA 57H82 Purchased, start-up questions. (1 Viewer)

[elMalloc]

Purchased Toshiba 57H82 to be delivered on Thursday with 4 year warranty.
I need to know some answers about starting this thing up. I have the video essentials DVD.
General Qs:
1) What theater wide mode do we use for cable TV?
2) What theater wide mode do we use for non anamorphic widescreen DVDs?
Technical Qs:
3) Well what's 9pt convergence and should I do it immediately? Where do I access it?
4) Well what's 56pt convergence?
5) Disabling "DNR" - what is that and disable it why?
6) I have an H82, how will I disable SVM, or can I?
7) What else!?
Thanks Every body,
ELmO:star:

 

[Daniel_G]

I just purchased this TV as well and have it for a few days now. Good choice! I can answer some of your questions.
1) This is pretty subjective, but I find theaterwide 1 to look the best for 4:3 cable TV. I can barely tell its stretched.
2) Haven't played a non-anamorphic widescreen disc yet but I've researched this TV a lot on 'net in the last few weeks and everybody recommends Theaterwide 2 for this.
3) Have not fooled with the convergence yet, but I know the 9pt is available through the user menus.
5) DNR has something to do with smoothing out the cable signal making it look better. I don't think you need to disable it.
Hope this helps you out a little.
Dan

 

[elMalloc]

Thanks a bunch.
The TV is in the house and "warming up" for hte past hour. They told us to wait for a couple hours cuz "it was out in the truck" so I'm still waiting.

My parents of course are always finding everything negative about it, so it puts lots of stress on me to make it look as good as possible. I have Video essentials and the panny rp82/component cables. I hope to at least impress with DVDs. They are really hard to impress, it makes me have a lot of stress - I don't like that. If it were my TV I'm sure I would be enjoying it much more cuz I know what looks good to me and what not, they don't knowa thing about it.

-ELmO

 

[Jan Strnad]

If they aren't impressed with this set, they're hopeless.
4) 56-point convergence is accessed through the service menu. It gives you more points to play with to get the geometry and convergence right. Let the set settle in for 100 hours or so before doing this.
6) When you set color, brightness, etc., you'll have a number of "modes" to choose from. Choose "theater" which has SVM disabled. When you change your settings, the mode will change to "preference" but SVM will remain off.
Enjoy!
Jan

 

[Hanson]

I used TW2 on my Tosh for pretty much all cable sources except for sports programming. I needed TW3 to keep the score box from being cut off. In addition, I would scroll the picture in TW2 so I cut off more of the bottom than the top (I think it was -9).

You definitely want TW2 for non-anamorphic DVD's.

And if you are new to widescreen, change your DVD player output setting to widescreen or 16:9 or anamorphic (or whatever it's called) and use the Full mode. And if you've never used component before, you need to change the video output setting to component from S-Video. In many players, changing from one to the other cuts one off -- so if you're hooked up via S-Video and switch to component, you will get a blank screen. Composite work both ways, though. If the player is set to S-Vid and you hook it up via component, you will get a blank screen.

 

[elMalloc]

OK the modes are Sports, (Normal) and movie. (NORMAL) might be something else I forget.
Anyways they are watching jurassic park and now say the TV is spectacular and don't want me calibrating a thing (I didn't get to run VE even..nor 9 pt convergence).
Is it possible if I do 9 pt convergtence correctly, that I could be screwing the picture up? And since it stores a preference for each mode, I don't see how VE could hurt much since they are watching DVD in "movie" mode right now which is a static preset.
What should I do? Thanks everyone, great set.
_ELmO_:star:

 

[Hanson]

This is what you should do...

Even in movie mode, you will need to calibrate color, tint, brightness, and especially contrast. The last one is the biggest, as it will affect not only picture quality, but the life of your set and the chance of screen burn-in. Even in movie mode, the contrast is halfway (50?). I would say 28 to 35 is better for your set. Sharpness should come down betweeb 0 and 15 (I've heard of sets that actaully defocus as you start hitting 0).

Here's the problem -- people who aren't HT obsessive think that a properly calibrated set is too dark. I guarantee that your parents will think it's too dark. And too blurry.

I had to shrug off these criticisms from my roommate and friends. If it's too much, you should at the very least bring the contrast down and increase the brightness to compensate.

The 9 point convergence isn't a big deal. You'll never be able to really fix convergence unless you get into the service menu. Even then, you will probably have geometery problems. Save this for on down the road. Nothing you do in the user menus will hurt your set (other than setting contrast too high). The service and designer menus are a different story.


Hey -- you can change your sig now.

 

[Brian Barnesky]

I have a 57HDX82 (My third....long story)and have been extremelly happy with it, and don't even have a HDTV source yet! I just bought a rp-82 to replace my dv-333 and have a setup question that sorta pertains to this thread since I have basically the same video setup.

From what I understand the Tosh needs to be on film not video mode and that's the only thing besides turning all the features and SVM off while setting to warm?

Now as far as the DVD.......
-Lighter or Darker black setting?
-Cinema 1, 2 or normal?

I understand this may be highly subjectable but just wanted to hear what others have found to be the most accurte Just wondering where to start now that I will calibrate with Avia again to match the new player. Also should I use Avia in progressive mode?

I really have had a hard time seeing a big difference...yet only one day of messing with between progressive and interlace.....should I? I do have component hookup...FYI.

Thanks,
b

 

[Hanson]

The movie setting changes the temp to warm and all the setting to the midway point. It also disables SVM.

Once you mess with any of the settings, they become the memory or user setting. At this point, you can change screen temp -- it will still be memory based on the movie template. If you started in movie mode, changed the color temp to low, and then cranked up all your settings to 100, you would have the same picture as the normal mode (without SVM). The modes are simply templates.

Also, if you switch from memory to sports and then change the contrast one tick, that will overwrite your old memory settings with the new one.

So as long as you start your calibration in movie mode, SVM will be turned off. If not for SVM, you could start in sports mode and achieve the same picture.

Your DVD should be set to darker black. This will output IRE0 and give you true black. I am not sure what the other settings you're talking about are.

I don't have a progressive scan player and let the TV perfomr 3:2 pulldown for me. 95% of the time, I can't see the difference if I turn the TV's progressive mode off. The line doubling, it appears, is doing most of the heavy lifting. Don't be shocked if the difference between progressive and interlace w/doubling isn't all that apparent.