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Thinking about going DIY, Need help with Veneer (1 Viewer)

Mark Fitzsimmons

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Aug 18, 2001
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I think I have all of my questions answered. But here is a little one which I don't think I could screw up if I tried :)
When I use the closed cell foam weatherstriping to seal the sub, should I apply the tape to the enclosure then screw the sub into place, or apply it to the sub?
 

Mark Fitzsimmons

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Aug 18, 2001
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First off, I just ordered my Tempest :)
Second, I have one last (I think) question. Is there any reason to go with the AVA250 over the PartsExpress 250w plate amp on special for $119.90? It seems that the only thing the AVA250 offers is the Crossover defeat, and if I set the crossover on the PE version to 160 it is essentially defeated. Since I will be hooking it up via the subwoofer preout on my reciever which is crossed at 80hz, although I don't know the slope.
It just seems the PE is a much better buy at almost $60 less.
 

Dustin B

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Mar 10, 2001
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Nope, the PE is fine. Although I don't know what the rumble filter is set at on it now. I think it's just disabled and you may want to set it up to be similar to the AVA250. Just requires swapping out two resistors. Really quite easy to do.
 

Mark Fitzsimmons

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OK, I just ordered the PE amp.

I'd like to think of myself as the soldering master, so I'll have no problem swapping out the resistors.

The rumble filter isn't as much of a concern because I'm going sealed is it? I'm sure it still helps to filter out power robbing infrasonics but, driver damage isn't a concern like it is with vented enclosures, right?
 

Dustin B

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No, you'll definately want the rumble filter. Above tuning the port protects the driver from over excursion, below tuning is where you run into trouble. With sealed enclosures there is no port to take over output in the 20-30hz range so excursion just keeps going up. A sealed sub will be more likely to bottom out around 20hz than a ported sub tuned under 20hz.

A little boost in the 20hz range also won't hurt a sealed design much. I'm not sure how much you'll want to use though, someone else will have to answer that one for you. In other words I won't be able to recommend any resistor values.
 

Mark Fitzsimmons

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Hopefully someone can come around to recomend some resistor values... anyone? :)
Thank you Dustin for all of your help.
 

Mark Fitzsimmons

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Aug 18, 2001
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What is the mounting depth for the parts express amp? I am looking at the Adire reference design for the 122L Tempest, and figuring out what I need to change to make it front firing and where I'll mount the amp. I need to know how much I'll need to cut out of the bracing so the amp will fit.

I read the AVA250's mounting depth is 3.5" so I bet its the same....
 

Mark Fitzsimmons

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Heres a small update.
Today after work my friend Drew drove me up to Home Depot in his truck so we could pick up my MDF. We came home with a 4x8ft sheet of .75" MDF for $16.97
Afterwards we went to the fabric store and got two pounds of poly-fil for $1.99 a pound. Thanks for the suggestion Dustin, I almost bought this stuff for almost $10 a pound from Parts Express, I saved $16 :) I guess saving money is what DIY is all about.
 

Dustin B

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Good to hear. The only thing that really sticks out on the back of the amp is the transformer (at least I think that is what I'm thinking of is called). So if you want to wait for the amp you can get away with less than 3.5" in places. But if you don't want to wait 3.5" will work just fine.

And from your last post, now the fun part begins.
 

Dustin B

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Pretty close, I remember one guy who actually did some good work that was a little younger than you (name escapes me). And another kid who claimed to do a lot of DIY but eventually just got himself kicked off the board. The funny part was they were friends and the first guy always called the second kid on his lying :laugh:
 

Mark Fitzsimmons

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Aug 18, 2001
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539
How can I do a grill like this one? http://home.cinci.rr.com/reefsite/sub.htm
Also, any tips in veneering? I think I have it figured out by the guys descriptions on the site. I think I would take the unfinished sub. Then measure the dimensions and cut 1/4" plywood to that size and glue it to each face. This leaves it looking something like this.

Then you get something called quarter round? Do they have this at home depot? I assume you just take this and glue it into the gaps at the corners.
I don't think I'll veneer the sides with the amp and driver, I'll paint them. I think I heard MDF is hard to paint for some reason... any tips here? I guess I'll end up masking the veneered faces of the enclosure to prevent over spray. If I do overspray am I supposed to sand the veneer afterwards? Do I do that anyway?
Then I figure after the amp and sub sides are pained I'll stain the veneer. Is this how it is done?
 

Dustin B

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I know squat about veneering or making grilles.
But as for painting mdf my only advice is make sure you do a good job with sanding and primer. MDF likes to soak stuff up (especially edges). You'll want to make sure you have a thick and smooth as possible primer coat before you apply any paint. Without a proper primer coat you end up with something like my speaker stands :frowning:
 

Ashley Carr

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Jun 19, 2002
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Mark:
I found the easiest way to make a grille was to take a sheet of 6mm MDF (that's about 1/4" for all you backwards people;) ), and cut out the middle so you end with a solid frame (does that make sense?). Then it's just a matter of bevelling the edges with a router, painting it black, and stretching the material over it.
If 6mm flexes too much once it's been cut, you could try 9mm, or even 12mm. Cutting the middle out seems a bit of a waste of wood, but it's the easiest way to get a solid and strong grille that isn't too chunky.
Also, I'm 18, and I built my first speaker cabinets when I was 16.
 

Mark Fitzsimmons

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Aug 18, 2001
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Thanks for the information. I think I'll just find some 1/4" wood laying around, whatever it is, and make the grill that way by your method. Good idea.

I am still wondering about veneer...
 

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