Theater platform and hight of sconse lights (1 Viewer)

[MikeMon]

Hi all I am almost ready to do some more work on my theater, I have it framed and insulated. I need to know what the best hight for the rear platform is, I bought some 2X10 but I want to be sure befor I start to build it. Also I bought 6 sconce lights for the 2 side walls, can someone tell me how high they should go in a room with an 8 foot celing and also is it better to space them out evenly or more twards the back of the room? My room will be 21 feet long by 14 feet wide with an 8 foot celing. Pleas provide any info you can for me as I am learning as I go.


I should have my 500 foot roll of in wall monster cable tomorrow so I will also start that as well.

Mike

 

[drobbins]

I mounted my wall lights with the bottom of the electric box at 6'. My ceiling is just under 8'. I have only 2 lights on each wall and they are evenly spaced. You can check it out here Basement Theater.
You might consider some recessed ceiling lights also. The wall lights I have add light to my screen and they have to be turned almost all the way off for a good picture. We usually have them turned off for movies, but some room lighting is good when watching TV or video games. The recessed ceiling lights would allow you to have lighting in the room without it directly hitting your screen. This is an item that I would have done differently.
Dave

 

[MikeMon]

Thanks drobbins, Ill do 6 feet for the hight of the lights and I was thinking about the recessed lights as well ( how many do you think and what placement)? Any thoughts on the riser in the back? I already have 2x10's and some 4/4 tongue and grove floor board. Also any thought on this: Should I have a recessed hardware rack out in the room or should I hide it away in the wire room and get a signal repeter to transmit the remote signal?




Mike

 

[Andrew Stoakley]

Hi Mike,

My sconces are at 6 feet as well with 8 foot ceilings and that seems to work well. My riser in the back is approximately 8" high - restricted by a return air vent. All in all works great. Take a look at the pics from the below link.

Cheers,
Andrew

 

[drobbins]

Mike,
I would not go much higher than 10" unless you are going to have more than one step.
I do not know the layout of your room, but I have some ideas on the recessed lighting. Do not put them where they will shine on the screen or over a seat. You would not want to be under a spotlight. Some recessed lighting (not flush mount) you can direct. I would place them over aisle ways directing the wall. Maybe facing a poster or behind the rear seating directed toward the corner. If you have one, get a desk light and experiment. I used some $1.50 basement light bulb fixtures when building mine. They also helped me see while doing the work.
I have my equipment right next to my seating. I put there for lack of another space for it. Now that I have it there I am glad. Even with my Harmony remote that operates everything, I find myself needing to get to the equipment often. (change DVD, etc..) Also my GameCube and PS2 are there.
Before you close up the walls, try to set up everything you can and you might find issues that you didn't think of. I wish I had put an outlet in the corner where my sub is. Get folding chairs and sit in the different locations. Try out your sound system. You can still move the speaker wiring if necessary. Changes are much easier at this point of construction.

Be sure to post finished pictures.
Dave

 

[MikeMon]

Thanks, good info I think. I will let you know how it turns out. I just had some more lumber delivered this morning. I have one last question before I complete my frame work, for the platform do I connect it to the wall studs, or does it matter ( it will run from wall to wall with an opening for the door)same question for the stage in front of my screen. And last of all do the bass shakers work best in the rear platform or in the seating ( I will have them mounted in the front seats ).

Im off to move lumber down stairs.

:frowning:

Mike

 

[drobbins]

Moving Lumber = Good Exercise!
I would connect the stage to the walls to stop it from moving. I do not know that much about bass shakers. If you mount them in the platform, you might not want to attach it to the walls, but "trap" it in so it doesn't move out of position. (nail a 2x4 next to a 2x10 so it can not move, but is not directly attached) They might not work as well trying to shake the platform and the walls. If the shakers are in the seating then I would attach the platform and walls.
Dave

 

[Michael Whitney]

Mike,

From all I have read on here and other sites, you want to isolate the stage and seating platforms from the rest of the wall framing. Alot of pictures in the gallery have the subwoofer on the main stage in the corner and it will help prevent vibration. The other reason is for creating more of a soundproofing envelope and building the stage and risers after the drywall has been placed to help diminish the potential sound leak weakness areas.

Michael

 

[MikeMon]

Interesting, I have already started the riser and its connected to the wall studs now, can someone pleas advise on this? my room is 14 feet wide so the riser will need to be most of if not the full width in order for me to get a 3-4 seat on it. The stage I thought was supposed to be filled with sand for the sub? I will try to do a diagram to show you guys, I want to have 1 2x10 riser in the rear that is 8 feet deep then on the floor in front will be the other seating. I also will have a 2x4 or 2x6 stage with sand pads in the corners for subs, I plan on filling the stage and riser with insulation and run bass shakers. the riser I am doing a little less than 16' centers with re-enforcement and the stage will depend on the shape. Now will this be a big deal if I tie it to the wall studs? if so I will have an awkward gap on each side of the riser. Let me know




MIKE

 

[DonRC]

I used a rigorous TLAR method to determine the ideal height for my sconces.

If you're interested, you can see the sconces here.

Don