Tang-Band full ranger drivers, do I need any "crossover" components for these?

Discussion in 'Archived Threads 2001-2004' started by Jeffrey Noel, Dec 11, 2002.

  1. Jeffrey Noel

    Jeffrey Noel Screenwriter

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    I'm going to build a 5.1 set-up for my sister and her husband for Christmas. I know they do not like big speakers so I am going to use a full range Tang-band driver for each of the five speakers. I want something small but good. I just don't know if I need to do anything more than put them in their appropriate enclosures. Do I need some sort of low-pass filter on them? Or do I need to use some other "crossover" components? I don't know anything about this part of the design process, so I thought I'd ask for some assistance.
    Here's a link to the driver I'll be using in each speaker:
    Tang-Band 3" Full Range Driver
    Thanks fellas!
     
  2. Rory Buszka

    Rory Buszka Supporting Actor

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    I'm sure it will blow away comparable Bose Acoustimass setups. If you are interested in giving them a tiny subwoofer, go to Parts Express (which also carries some nice Tangband drivers) and get two of the Goldwood 6.5" butyl-surround woofers and pair them with the 80-watt Hypex subwoofer amplifier HS80 from Acoustic Visions. It won't bring down the house but it should mate well with the Tangbands. You can even make something that looks like the new Acoustimass modules that Bose is shipping with the Lifestyle 28 and 35 but will sound lots better. You could build a very small bass reflex subwoofer this way. Its front dimensions would only have to be 8" across and about 14" high if you port out the rear.
     
  3. Jeffrey Noel

    Jeffrey Noel Screenwriter

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    I agree with you on the Bose idea. I'm sure it will blow them away. Plus, each of these speakers is $6! Hopefully everything goes as planned!

    For the sub, I'm going to use two TB High Excursion 8" subs in a ported enclosure. I will only be tuning them around 30 hz, but that should be just fine for my sis. They're not the bassheads I am. The sub will be made to look like and end table/cabinet with a false cabinet door including a handle. I want this setup to look as good as it can. I want to repay my sister and brother-in-law for allowing me to live with them for free.
     
  4. Mark_E_Smith

    Mark_E_Smith Second Unit

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    I think Brian and Hank have modeled that 8" and its twin from MCM and they concluded you cant do a ported enclosure, just a PR.[​IMG]
     
  5. You will probably want a small R-L parallel network to account for some baffle step.
     
  6. Jeffrey Noel

    Jeffrey Noel Screenwriter

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    Mark, using WinISD Pro I put in the specs of the subs and it doesn't look to bad with 2 subs in a single 2cu.ft. enclosure tuned to 30hz with 1 4" diameter port of ~15inches long. I don't really have the exact design done yet, so I may have to switch to one 3" vent while increasing the air velocity. It is tuned a little high for home theater, but that's not a big deal to my sis.

    Should I just throw out that idea? I am not going to buy a passive radiator for these since they'd be more $$ than the speakers themselves.

    Anyway, anyone have recommendations for the "crossover-type" components for the speakers?

    Anthony, will the loss from baffle step really be that bad? If so, what specifically should I do. Like I said, I am clueless when it comes to this area especially!
     
  7. Mark gas

    Mark gas Second Unit

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  8. I suggest you look at a pre-existing kit [​IMG]
    you can talk to hank about his bose busters that he makes.
    Also, as mentioned, look at creative sounds. THe Elf kit may be what you are looking for.
     
  9. Brian Bunge

    Brian Bunge Producer

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    Tony,
    That's Hank's and Brian's (or Brian's and Hank's) Bose Busters, thank you very much! [​IMG] It was a joint effort! I've also built my own version of the 1.5 way ELF speakers and they sound great, IMHO.
    The little BB speakers we built don't use any baffle step compensation and I think they sound very good as long as you use a subwoofer with them. I've got a sealed pair on my computer desk right now. If they're going to be mounted on a wall or placed inside a cabinet I say skip the BSC. If stand mounted, you might want to add some.
     
  10. Jeffrey Noel

    Jeffrey Noel Screenwriter

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    Anthony, that Elf kit does look nice but that'll be $150 without the enclosures for all 5 speakers. The speaker I am going to buy from Nuera Acoustics is only $5.99 each! I can buy some components from PE but I just don't know what I need. I'm in college now and don't have much money to my name, but I really want to build somthing for my sister.

    So Brian, do you think they'd be okay without any added extras? I was planning on making them sealed. I know they will not be the greatest HT speakers, but it would be nice to know I made something similar in design to the Acousticrap speakers Bose sells but with better sound and a lot less price.

    And yes, the B*se Busters were my inspiration. And I couldn't pass up the $6/speaker!
     
  11. AllanRW

    AllanRW Second Unit

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    Jeff.
    Buyer beware.Of the clearance drivers.I can give you more info off the board.
    Those are a good find, but there is issues you may want to know about before you order them.BELIEVE ME.
    Email me direct and I will go into detail.
    If I was you spend the money and get the 871S.Yes way more money, but the responce is far better.
    Jeff
    On the SUB W8-740C.
    get the MCM.
    I am still working with MCM as they have sent me some PRs they are getiing in I requested for the 2421.
    These 8" will only work to the requirments you are looking for with a PR.
    I tried a port as did Brian and Hank.A PR is the way to go.
    Now if you want to use them in a IB design using a open back they will work also.
    I have been talking with Mr Wright who did a atrical about the IB 12" DVC PE driver a few months ago in the Audio Amature Exprss mag.
    And the 8" will work.Get the artical and read it.
    Go the MCM as the vent is larger, the spyder is on the first rung and this allows more Xmax over the TB, along with the venting as i said the MCM is cheaper and the 2 drivers (MCM,TB) will work in the same cabinet.
    I have tested 9 TB and 3 MCM in may designs and the PR is need to make them work in a small cube.
    Now CSS has a new PR that goes 5cm of travel.
    http://www.creativesound.ca/pdf/BXP10.pdf
    I used this and works great as a drop in.
    I used a other 10" and had to weight it a lot to tune it correct.
    Brian.
    Want to get a lower responce out of the 1.5.Order 2 #54-606 from MCM.Drop them in the lower driver spot of the 871S.
    And then you hit the 70s.
    let me know what you think.
    OVER ALL BUYER BEWARE!A deal is not a deal all the time.
     
  12. Jeffrey Noel

    Jeffrey Noel Screenwriter

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    Allan, YGM!
    Thanks!
     
  13. AllanRW

    AllanRW Second Unit

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    Does anyone have the issue of the artical of MR KOONCE and MR Bob Wright did the IB Sub using the 12" DVC from PE.

    Al
     
  14. Mark gas

    Mark gas Second Unit

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  15. Hank Frankenberg

    Hank Frankenberg Cinematographer

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    Jeffrey, I'd take Allan's advice. Buy the W3871S instead - it's $11.98 each for 1-5. Do a ported cabinet for lower bass extension - it's worth the effort. For some "different" finishes, look at the HF Soundwerks BB's on the second page of my little web site:
    http://www.geocities.com/hankbond1/index
    Allan, what's the price of that RCM PR? I can't find it on the Creative web site.
     
  16. Dennis Higgins

    Dennis Higgins Auditioning

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    I ordered 5 TB W3-881S for 11.46 apiece the other day from PE
    with plans to build 5 small speakers for my brother. I saw
    Hank's speakers and really like both the "red" and "Lounge"
    versions. I also found this design:
    http://www.tubeaholic.com/projects/page.view?RowId=63
    I'm planning on using this concept, which involves a little
    less woodworking skills, for my design. I'm considering
    5(w) x 7(h) x 6(d) external dimensions using 1/2" stock.
    I'm also planning on a 1" x 2.5" port. Any comments on
    this design? Does the port location, front or back,
    make any difference? How much bracing do I really need for
    a cabinet and driver this size?
    Hank,
    Do you have any pictures of the internals of your speakers?
    Thanks,
    Dennis
     
  17. Brian Bunge

    Brian Bunge Producer

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    Another excellent choice subwoofer wise is the DLS 10" sub from PE. At $99 each, it's almost not worth trying to build a dirt cheap sub. I could do it with my PE account, but then I'd still have to finish the enclosure. It would be an excellent sub even if they charged $250-$300 retail. Just ask Ronnie Ferrell. He heard it too! [​IMG]
     
  18. AllanRW

    AllanRW Second Unit

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    Brian is 100% correct again on this one.
    I have not listened to these but for the money.Your time is worth something.But if you want to build a sub go to 12"
    What you get is a over all better driver and performance you will be happy with compared to just satisfied with.

    Al
     
  19. Brian Bunge

    Brian Bunge Producer

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    Allan,

    I went back and re-read your post. I've got some of those MCM drivers here that they sent me as demo's! I'll have to drop them in and check 'em out!
     
  20. Jeffrey Noel

    Jeffrey Noel Screenwriter

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    Dennis, those Rat Coffins you provided a link to are awesome! Especially the wood and finish. Do you know the guy who did these?


    BTW, by Allan's suggestion, I went with the 3" MCM full range drivers, 54-606. Can't wait to get these started. I bought 7, 2 extras in case I screw up :b, for $50.33 with free shipping. Not a bad deal at all!!

    Brian, I probably will end up with getting the DLS 10". I just don't like the black cabinet. Maybe I could refinish it somehow?!
     

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