SVS Clone

Discussion in 'Archived Threads 2001-2004' started by TedO, Mar 9, 2002.

  1. TedO

    TedO Stunt Coordinator

    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2001
    Messages:
    143
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    I have a SVS 16-46cs+ subwoofer being driven by a Samson S1000 amp. I would like to build a subwoofer to pair with it and I have a few questions. I want it to match (or better) the Plus's output and frequency curve. I will not be able to make it look like the plus.

    1) Which driver is a match for the driver of the plus?

    2) The Plus has (3) 3" flared ports about 32" long. Could I use one 6" flared port instead, and if so how long should it be?

    3)I know the "ideal" position for the second sub would be in the same corner as the Plus, but it has to go in the opposite corner (WAF). The room is 16'x24'x 8', How much will this placement hurt the preformance of the set?

    4) I have seen some sub builders use 2-3 threaded rods to hold the whole SonoSub together. Is this recommended or is glueing the end caps on sufficient?

    5) What material can be used with flared ports? Do they accept PVC, I see the SVS uses some kind of cardboard. I see you can buy them with extensions, but a 3" flared port kit with one extension would run about $25.

    OR should I just sell my SVS and build a set of Sono Subs?
     
  2. ThomasW

    ThomasW Cinematographer

    Joined:
    Nov 6, 1999
    Messages:
    2,282
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Might want to learn a little about the designing and building of subs before you make your decision.
    Checkout TerryC's DIY sub page for different projects. Then download a copy of Unibox if you have a newer version of Excel
     
  3. Brian Fellmeth

    Brian Fellmeth Supporting Actor

    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2000
    Messages:
    789
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    0
    3) Second sub remote from first can cause some real problems with the FR curve. In an extreme case, the second sub could make the entire rig worse. On the other hand, you might get lucky and have cancillation/summations improve the room modes. There is always the BFD if the spouse enforced placements create a lumpy FR (and boomy one-notey bass)

    4) I used the threaded rod trick on the only sub I've made, but I'm a believer in the technique. Very satisfying locking the endcaps down to each other.
     
  4. TedO

    TedO Stunt Coordinator

    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2001
    Messages:
    143
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    I think I will use the treaded rods also. It looks like the more robust way to go.

    Seems like everyone is using MDF board for thier subs. I know it might be a little cheaper but wouldn't using Hdf board or a hardwood such as birch, maple or oak work better?
     

Share This Page