Subwoofer Repair? (1 Viewer)

[Brent Smith]

Hi,

Given the cost of subwoofers is it smarter to just replace a damaged subwoofer or possibly get it repaired? The sub got a very high pitched "POP" twice from a digital audio source(watching an HDTV broadcast of a football game) and it was only after I was watching a movie with what I knew was much lower "oomph" then I was used to that I realized the sub was not engaging. It doesn't seem to be getting any power at all and the self test mode for my receiver can't make it engage either.

Thanks,

Brent Smith

 

[Robb Roy]

Brent,

That really depends on the sub (not to mention whether it's under warranty). If you've got a KLH, just replace it. If it's a Velo DD series, get it fixed. What is the make and model of the sub?

-Robb

 

[Lee Carbray]

You may have just blown a fuse or it may have a thermal shut off. I remember once on my old Cerwin Vega it bottomed twice on the "Ring drop" scene and shut off. I could not get it to play but then the next day it started working again. A closer read of the manual stated there was thermal protection circuitry. Definetly check for the fuse first.

 

[Brent Smith]

Hi Lee,

So if the fuse is blown that would prevent sub from getting power at all(and thus prevent it from working at all)?

Thanks,

Brent Smith

 

[Robert_Gaither]

Start by treating it as a new installation make certain it's properly connected both to the AVR and outlet. Check the phase, gain, power switch, and AVR settings (double check if the sub is on, all speakers small, and any lfe attenuation off). Try a few test sweeps/tones.

If the above failed, check the fuse, if it's ok then connect at line level and reset the AVR to mains/front large, sub off, and run sweeps. If that fails then your sub's amp is defective. If this works then turn the gain to minimum disconnect from AVR and connect the sub input to CD's pre-out a play a source, if the bass is back then your AVR's sub pre-out is defective.

 

[Robb Roy]

Brent,

Yes, if the fuse is blown the sub will not work at all. Lee and Robert have some great ideas about diagnosing the problem.

-Robb

 

[Brent Smith]

Hi all,

Looked over the sub from stem to stern... no fuse in plain view so I am assuming it doesn't have one. The model number in question is a JBL PSW-D112.

Thanks for all the help so far,

Brent Smith

 

[Jeff Detiege]

I'm not sure about JBL, but the fuse should be located under a small knob (dime size) near the power cord. It will unscrew counterclockwise and the fuse will be connected to the end.

 

[Brent Smith]

Hi Jeff,

I've scouted the back with a fine tooth comb, there unfortunately is no fuse. I am betting JBL planned for "obsolesence" or wanted to charge premium for a repair if it dies outside of warranty (which it is). There is no JBL service center in my area so would a normal stereo repair shop be able to fix this problem?

Thank you,

Brent Smith

 

[Arthur S]

Brent

Not sure if your model was one of those JBLs from a couple years ago. There were quite a few in which the digital amp died.

As I recall, they had to go to a JBL service center to have the amp replaced.

Hopefully, your problem is no more than a fuse.

Artie

 

[Chad Texas]

my 15" version blew a capacitor. Call JBL Support and tell them the problem. They covered the part and I pd labor and shipping from Tx to LA.

Cost $75.00

 

[MarkO]

Has to be a main fuse somewhere. If it has a round toridial transformer, Im betting its part of its windings. Ive seen this on a few infinity servo subs.