Subwoofer incompatibility problem (1 Viewer)

[Shane G]

Ryan;
I was experimenting with the settings on my Denon AVR3300 last night, the mainspeakers definitly stay as large in the direct mode. So, I changed the settings to large in the stereo mode as well. You should probably leave yours as large, but nothing is stopping you from experimenting.
I've found the sound preferable with the large setting, which would explain why it sounded better to me in the Direct mode.
I would suggest you also experiment with your sub & reciever, by switching it between "sub-only" and "sub & mains" then experimenting with your subs built-in amplifier volume control, phase control and x-over frequency control (I have my x-over set to it lowest possible setting about 60hz). I just run my sub amp hot (a little over 1/2) and use the subwoofer level control on the receiver to adjust the volume. I've read that this configuration will allow for dynamic peaks in soundtracks better, by utilizing more of the subs available power, and by relieving some of the strain off the reciever outputs, so they don't max-out and distort the signal with bass heavy scenes.
Let me know how things turn out, these are a few options you should experiment with, before you retire your sub. These systems are quite complicated now a days, and there is quite a bit of adjustability to suit your tastes/room etc. The best thing is it doesn't cost anything to try all the options, and find out what works best for you.

 

[Ryan Cruz]

Ok so you're recommentding to take out the subwoofer coax connections from my tower, hook it up to the L/R speaker outs and set them as Large instead?

 

[Shane G]

No, you still use your coax cables for the sub-inputs on your speakers. You just hook them up to the left/right speakers pre-outs on the back of your reciever(if so equiped). Your speakers will still be tri-wired. I know on my Monitor 70P's, that this allows me to adjust the volume for the speakers built in 175 watt amp(I wanted access to that amp!)I'm assuming your speakers are the same.

You can also keep your subwoofer hooked up to the subwoofer output.

Once you have all that setup and running, you can now play with your receivers settings. Much of this is covered in my previous replies to this thread.

First off, set your speakers to large, then (on the same onscreen display, just scroll down) experiment between the "subwoofer-only" and "subwoofer & mains" settings to determine which sounds best to you (most/tightest bass). The "subwoofer & mains" setting will direct the LFE to both the frontspeakers and the subwoofer, this might be the setting you want.

You can also scroll down to the subwoofer section and experiment with the "subwoofer on" or "sub woofer off" section. This should help you determine if there is any cancellations.

You might find that your original configuration sounded the best. These are just options that I thought you should try, maybe they will work for you, maybe they won't. Your ears will be the final judge.

When I bought my PW2200 subwoofer, I wanted the bottom octaves around 20hz, that I knew my speakers couldn't produce, even though are very bass cabable speakers. I've found that running the speakers as large, in the configuration I described, allowed me to get the most out of the speakers design. The sub then only reproduces the deepest bass that the 70P's can't reach with any authority.

 

[Ryan Cruz]

Thanks a lot. I did try it but it seems my towers weren't putting out enough bass when I did it. Buy anyway, I think I'll be sticking to my old setup which had the most output. Thanks a lot for your help Shane

 

[Shane G]

Your welcome Ryan;

That's good, at least you tried some more options.
I know I used to have my speakers hooked up the same as yours are now, before I got a seperate sub.
I thought there might have been a differant way you could reconfigure your system, that would help you integrate your sub better, but it seems that adjusting the phase more than likely solved your problem.