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Discussion in 'Home Theater Projects' started by Herb Michelli, Dec 6, 2003.
Im new to the forum and I have a wierd question. Can I use a car sub to build a sub for ht? Thanks
The answer is maybe.... It really depends on the driver. Typically car subs are designed to work in small sealed boxes and allow cabin gain to make up the low end response.
Other drivers like our AV12 work out well in a car or home theater environment. If you already have a car sub, which one? I can let you know much better if it will work or not.
If you don't already have the woofer, with most of the better car subs you're paying a lot more money for the name than for the actual performance.
No I dont have a sub yet but I was thinking of a jl audio. Where can i find the av12 sub?
Well, didn't reply to try to make a sale, but here's the link.
There are other drivers out there too intended for DIY audio. Majority of them will be better for home theater use than the majority of car audio drivers.
Generally car audio subs aren't as good quality and aren't designed to go as low as HT sub drivers. John's Stryke drivers have a big following here as do the Adire drivers ( www.adireaudio.com ), and the Titanic drivers from www.partsexpress.com .
I tried to go to the link you provided for stryke.com and I can get into the website but thats all I can do. Do you know if the website is having any trouble?
You’re baseless annotations are no more then that of an uneducated, badly informed home theater enthusiast. Don’t worry; I was the same way when I ventured into home audio/theater. You would be exceedingly shocked if you seen some of the drivers out there directed in favor of car audio, I wouldn’t qualm to believe the greater part would humiliate a vast majority of the subs directed for home theater. The frequency the driver can play is far more dependent on the enclosure and tuning frequency, saying “car audio subs don’t/aren’t designed to go as low” is not only comical but more significantly unrepresentative. The world’s finest engineered sub is projected for car audio. Everything about it is a marvel. Gather before you discourse, you would be quite shocked at the outcome.
Actually you misquoted me, I never said that they dont go as low. They can, in a car with cabin gain. As for the uneducated part, I dont see how my comments differ that much from John's and he designs drivers for a living. I am sure that some car subs are good. And could put HT subs to shame in a HT, but not for the same money. Tell me if you know of a car sub that is better for HT than John's AV15 or Dan's Tempest in that price range.
Define optimal? Are you speaking of the manufacturers recommended enclosure? If so your deliberation is pathetic, I know of 20 dissimilar “optimal” enclosures for my driver (15A.22), yet I use the one that fits my application best. “Typical car subs are not designed to play low on their own and use cabin gain to overcome this deficiency.” This quote has got me on the floor laughing; educate yourself a little with reference to speaker design. There are a lot of dubious manufactures out there, not just in car audio. For the most part however I can identify with several manufacturers that would serve well for double duty, just to name a few…
As for the super sub, I am speaking of the JL W7 line of drivers.
A lot of the car audio drivers can put them to shame for less money, that’s the thing. I am not directing my response to internet retailers only, instead the whole audio scene. Better then the AV15 or Tempest for the price? Both are fantastic drivers. Both internet based companies too. All considered I would put an elemental designs 15K in my living room ahead of both those drivers.
Elemental designs does not list a 15K subwoofer on their site. there is a e12K or a e15A but no 15K, or is it a new model not on their site yet. Please guide me to the woofer you speak of.
What Dan is saying is, for HT most car audio drivers are not a good choice. Many have such small Vas and Qts that there's no way to affectively port the enclosure below 30Hz or so. Also, any many cases the Fs is too high. I wouldn't be comfortable tuning an enclosure to 17-20Hz with a driver that's got an Fs up around 28-30Hz. You'll end up bottoming the thing out much too easily.
I'd sure take a couple of Adire Brahma 15's in a sealed enclosure with my LT circuit and my K2 though!
I have no idea what driver's you are talking about, but they are none that I deal with!
There is no doubt in my mind that the Stryke AV series are very good for the dollar. I was speaking of the last generation K series.
Speaking of the Stryke AV series, have they been officially Dumaxed? Just because they claim a linear throw of 23mm…
Here's a short list of driver's that are more then capable...
Maybe I should not have said "majority" instead there ARE capable car audio drivers that can and will serve well for home theater.
ArthurJ, I'm sure you know what he is talking about when he says "Also, any many cases the Fs is too high. I wouldn't be comfortable tuning an enclosure to 17-20Hz with a driver that's got an Fs up around 28-30Hz."
Did you take a look at the companies you mentioned?
e15A.22 - Fs : 28.80 Hz
e12A.22 - Fs : 27.3 Hz
e12O.44 - Fs : 28.63 Hz
e12K.44 - Fs : 26.39 ohm
XXX10 - 28.4
XXX12 - 27
XXX15 - 28
XXX18 - 29
HC12 - 28
HC18 - 27.3
Tempest - 18.8
Shiva - 21
DPL12 - 16.3
Tumult - 19
Maelstorm - 18
Notice the stark contrast in Fs between the two. You can look at Vas and Qts if you want to also
Couldn't find the Fs quickly
Crystal Loudspeakers aka Crystal Audio
Couldn't find quickly
I read all your post but this line is all I needed to know that you are a big fat waste of time.
Ok, is everybody's name on this damn forum Dan or Brian? Dan, I never called it the wonder sub, if you read up on the engineering and the cutom parts that went into designing the sub you would be quite pleased!