sub question (1 Viewer)

[wayneR]

New here just like to say hello to everyone.Before i start my system is as follows.yamaha rx-z1 recever,klipsch rf7s front,2 rc-7 front center rear center,2 rs7 for rear fill,and 1 boston pv1000.My question is this.I was into car audio for quite some time.Now getting into home theater.My sub is great but not enough to keep up with the rf's.I have a jl audio w7v2 and if you are not farmilar with this,it is top of the line.It would blow the pv1000 out of the water.I am a cabinet maker and would like to make this work with this system and use the car amp,a jl 1000 watt mono block.Is ther a way to convert 110v to the 12v that a car runs?This is a 700.00 sub and i dont want it to go to waste.You could not imagine the sound that comes from it.Thanks for any input.

 

[ThomasW]

They need a FAQ since this question is always being ask.

The answer is that building or buying a power supply for that big car amp will cost hundred and hundreds of dollars.

The smart thing to do is sell the car amp and use the money to buy an amp designed for home use.

 

[David_P]

Actually I can, and I imagine it sounds pretty good in your car.

It won't sound so good in your home. Sorry.

Car subs are purpose built to use the extreme gain given by a small car cabin. In large rooms they boom and sound like excessive flatulence.

At the very least, a car sub sould require a hefty box design to work in a home setup, if in fact it will work well at all. In almost all cases, there are far better (and cheaper) alternative drivers which are purpose made for home use.

And diito what Thomas says... ac-->dc inverters of that class are expensive, possibly more expensive than the sub itself.

David

 

[Brian Tatnall]

David,

Let's not be to hasty. There are a number of drivers being used in both home and car audio enviroments. For example, the shiva and tempest. Both can sound great in the car and in home.

I've used some big HT drivers and big car audio drivers in the home. Both can be used successfully. Unfortunately the w7 has an abnormally high Fs even for car audio drivers.

The big thing you mentioned is box building. I really wouldn't call it 'hefty' box building. More like application intensive just like you should for any application. Decide on a goal, then determine your static variables, and move the dynamic ones until the goal is achieved most efficiently. You would do the same thing for a home driver.

I don't really see internet direct car audio drivers that much more (if any more) expensive then those that are intended for car audio use either.

My .02
Brian

 

[Mattak]

Shoot, I better pull that brahma 15 out of my trunk!

 

[Chris Brock]

I would say that the main issue you would have in this setup would be the amp. You would be allot better off selling that 1000/1 and then looking into a pro audio amp such as a Behringer EP1500. If you put the sub in the right enclosure, while it might not be "audiophile" quality it should certainly give you some nice output. Also if I recall the 10 and 12w7 use a single 3ohm coils and the 13w7 uses dual 1.5 ohm coils. I think the pro amps would drive those loads but they are be under the rated impedance level of most pro amps so you have a higher risk of amp failure.

 

[Mitch N]

I feel this particular woofer is not really up to par for a HT environment. It may go loud, but does not hit low enough to cover all the bases.

Perhaps sell it and look at a woofer from Adire, Parts Express (dayton), or Stryke Audio.

You'll probably even have money left over for a good plate amp.