1. Hey hoping someone can help me out a bit. My KLH 120 watt 4ohm sub just "blew". Sounds like a monstrous can of...well you know right now. Anyway I am looking for a replacement driver on partsexpress. What do you guys know of pyramid, good bad decent? Can't post the link for it but it is PYRAMID PW1054-US 10" SUPER BLUE WOOFER 4 OHM


    Anyway my real question is one of my roommates said that getting a sub with two high of a RMS over that of what my amp can deliver is bad because I can "blow" the sub again. Can anyone tell me if this is true and to why it would or wouldn't be. Also I will be upgrading the amp in the case later on when I have the money to a 250 watt one. I only have $50 or so to spend so if anyone has another idea for a drive I would like to here it. Just starting to get into the entire speaker thing. Thanks in advance.

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  2. John F. Palacio

    John F. Palacio Supporting Actor

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    Generally speaking, replacing a driver with anything other than the exact speaker is generally not advisable, unless you have some knowledge in the matter. You might be better off just getting a new sub altogether or having this one serviced by a professional.

    Keep in mind that you might have a defective amp as well as the driver. This is hard to evaluate from a Forum and more so because you have not stated what the exact symptoms were. Maybe you can enlighten us as to what happened.

    In regards to your friends comments; it sounds, with all due respect, that he does not have a clue of what he is talking about so I would steer clear of anything he has to say on the matter.

    If I interpret your friends statement correctly the "higher RMS" means higher power rating. I will asume that because RMS by itself does not mean much whereas RMS power means something. In any event having a driver capable of withstanding higher power than the amp can produce in NOT a bad thing. It is actually good and therefore my assumption that you friend is not well informed.
     
  3. Hey John thanks for the quick reply. I have heard that about the amp from a friend at work. The Sub is still hitting with the beat of whatever I am playing. The sound that comes out now is kind of a rattling "farting" noise. I guess I will just wait for a while then see about buying a new one again.

    To clarify the RMS questions. Is there any way that I can damage a sub by putting in a driver that wants more power than the amp has been noted as the RMS. If I have some terms wrong here please correct me cause I am always wanting to learn. He was saying that the magnet in the speaker still moves the full distance whether it is properly supplied with power or not and so when underpowering you can overheat and seperate a voice coil. I think he is wrong and have been arguing with him about it for a while but just wanted someone who knows what they are talking about to explain to me.

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  4. John F. Palacio

    John F. Palacio Supporting Actor

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    Glad to be of some help, John.

    Regarding:
    Total nonsense. The magnet does not move, the voice coil and the cone it is attached to do. It moves in proportion to the input signal. The greater the voltage the larger the movement. Think of a driver that can take more power than the amp can produce as a tire that can go faster than the car it is mounted on.
     
  5. Jimi C

    Jimi C Screenwriter

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  6. Just another questions about RMS really quickly. I have a set of speakers that says RMS 45 watts but max of 180. I know what RMS means but in this situation what is it saying from the difference between the two numbers. If you need any more information just let me know.

    Thx for the sub help Jimi.
     
  7. Jimi C

    Jimi C Screenwriter

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    I cant tell if your being sarcastic or not, but anyways, i had a KLH 10" sub for about 4 years, my friend and i went out and each got one the day after turkey day at Best buy. The amp quit on mine about 6 months ago. I bought the Dayton as a replacement and was blown away, the difference is mind boggling, i had no clue what i had been missing out on. Quick clean bass, and more than enough of it for my small room. My friend still has his KLH. Just yesterday we were back at best buy and he bought the athena 5 speaker set that is on clearence for 199. Well, back to the point, i was back at his place, heared his KLH sub and couldnt beleive that i had been living with that as part of my ht for so long when for the same price i could have had the Dayton. There must be some way you can scrape up the extra $65, (i think i paid $11 for ground shipping to ny) beleive me, you will not be dissipointed. Just do a search for Tiny Mighty, I havnt heared a bad work spoken about that sub before.
     
  8. John F. Palacio

    John F. Palacio Supporting Actor

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    [email protected] says:
    RMS power is the "real" power produced by an amp or handled by a loudspeaker. There have been other methods of measuring power like: "peak" "peak to peak" and "music".

    The term "max" is not very scientific and can mean just about anything a manufacturer wants it to mean.

    Quite frankly I am puzzled at the RMS rating on the loudspeaker as normally they are rated in "music power."
    Reason for this is that speakers, as a rule, will handle more power at the lower end than at the high end of the music spectrum. This fits perfectly with the nature of music where there is usually a lot more energy in the lower frequencies.

    What brand and model speakers are these?
     
  9. No Jim I wasn't being sarcastic. Sorry if it came out that way. My KLH actually had an ok sound to it. But then agian I dont' know anyone that had anything of that size/power. Thx for the response and maybe in a couple of months. College kid with credit cards you know.

    Also John thanks for the reply. I would have to check with my roomate. They are in his car but your explanation makes perfect sense. I will check but I think they are kenwoods but I am probably wrong. I will update this post tonight with brand name and model if he knows them. Happy Easter all
     

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