Sub enclosure dimensions for av12

Discussion in 'Home Theater Projects' started by Joey Skinner, Sep 27, 2003.

  1. Joey Skinner

    Joey Skinner Second Unit

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    I want to build a small sealed sub for a Stryke av12. WinISD(if I did it right) indicates a 14w 22h 9d inches enclosure. I would rather have a more square box. Could someone give me dimensions for an enclosure or a link to a site with plans?
     
  2. Eric Eash

    Eric Eash Second Unit

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    according to those measurements, you could just do a 14" cube, or bump it up accordingly to 15", 16" 17" or even 18". not sure if anyone has gone over 18" cube for their AV12 though. make sure you read through the forum. do some searches and see what you find.

    eric
     
  3. Joey Skinner

    Joey Skinner Second Unit

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    Thanks for the replies. I'm new to DIY speaker building and I want to make sure I do things right the first time. If I build a 14in cube out of 3/4 mdf will it need any braces or internal reinforcement? I've been surfing this wonderful forum for a couple of weeks and sometimes all the info is a little overwhelming. I'm hoping that after I get a couple of projects under my belt it will all make a little more sense.
    Thanks for your patience,
    Joey
     
  4. Frank Carter

    Frank Carter Screenwriter

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  5. Paul Spencer

    Paul Spencer Stunt Coordinator

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    The Stryke website suggests 1 - 3 cubic feet. I did some simulations and found that 1cu ft limited extension a little too much, but there was not much gain in using a bigger box than 2 cu ft. If doing sealed I would suggest 2 cu ft is a good place to start.

    Bracing is always a good idea. You want a very rigid box so it won't vibrate and colour the sound. In a sealed box, half the output of the driver will either be absorbed within the box (converted to heat) by the stuffing or will vibrate the enclosure - so you make the box rigid to make sure that very little is allowed to turn into sound!!!

    A 16" cube should work nicely. 3/4" mdf with matrix bracing - 3 way - ie 3 sheets of mdf, one touches all sides but the top and bottom, one touches top and bottom and both sides, the third touches top and bottom, front and back but not the sides ... sounds confusing at first, but read carefully and it will make sense. Of course you will need to cut holes in these sheets. If this sounds too tricky, then you will need thicker walls.

    cheers,
    Paul
     
  6. Robert McNulty

    Robert McNulty Auditioning

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    I recently built a sealed sub using the stryke AV12. I was going for a low Q design so I constructed an 18" (~65L or 2.5 ft^3) braced cube out of 3/4 mdf stuffed with about 32 oz. of polyfill. I am very happy with the results, the sub is very solid sounding (tight not boomy) down into the low 20Hz range in my room. I based my construction on the Tempest sealed sub plans that can be found on Adire's site or the Acoustic-Visions web site.

    RJ
     
  7. Joey Skinner

    Joey Skinner Second Unit

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    Robert,is your sub downward firing?
     
  8. Robert McNulty

    Robert McNulty Auditioning

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    I had originally planned to make it down firing but the AV12 looks so nice that I changed my mind and made it forward firing. The box is roughly based on Adire's sealed tempest plans for an 18" box (without the legs). I doubled the thickness (two pieces of 3/4" mdf) of the speaker baffle so the driver is flush mounted.

    My new sub blends in well with a pair of Mirage M3si's. The Mirage's are large and play well into the low 30Hz range so I had worried about getting a quality sub that would compliment my speakers and not take up too much space. I used WinISD to help decide on a driver and later found a spreadsheet called UNIBOX which is my favorite (search for "unified box model" on google).
     

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