Staggered Studding

Discussion in 'Home Theater Projects' started by ShawnN, Sep 8, 2003.

  1. ShawnN

    ShawnN Auditioning

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    Does anyone know if it would make a differance if instead of using 2 2x4's, you could use a 2x6. you could still stagger the studs and save space (a premium in my 9'x17' room.) this will only be for one wall the rest will only be single studded.
    thanks
    [​IMG]
     
  2. Wayne A. Pflughaupt

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    The idea is to use a 2x6 header and footer with 2x4 studs staggered. Obviously you can’t stagger if you use only a 2x4 header and footer. Then it would require separate free-standing walls – which will take up even more space.

    Regards,
    Wayne A. Pflughaupt
     
  3. CurtisG

    CurtisG Auditioning

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    Yes, using a 2x6 staggered stud wall will be of good benefit for you HT. Some recommendations (learned from personal experience):

    1) Recommend that you stagger the walls with studs on 24" center on each side rather than the normal 16" - getting insulation to fit between the 16" center staggered studs (which means there is a stud every 8") makes it very tight fit for the insulation to fit.

    2) Use 1/2" dry wall on the inside wall (inside of the HT room) - you want some flex in that wall surface. Alternatively resilient channel but make sure to built it right (short screws).

    3) Use 1/2" sound board + 5/8" drywall on the outside wall of the room to get good soundproofing.

    4) Use insulation on the inside of the wall

    5) Use an exterior grade door (with weather stripping) or alternatively buy an acoustic door such as what Owens Cornings sells (quitezone product line) _IF_ you can find anyone that sells the stuff in your area - I haven't been able to...

    6) If installting electical boxes in the wall, don't install them opposite of each other (inside to outside wall) to prevent sound leaking out.

    7) don't forget to prewire for any future expansion (6.1, 7.1, 25.1, etc...)

    One last piece of advice, a 2x6 staggered wall is alot heavier to work with. Have some help of a couple of people to get the wall raised, especially if the wall is long (my longest wall was over 18', and was tough to work with). In hindsight, I should have built it in sections rather than in one piece. Might have even been cheaper with lumber costs.

    --curtis
     
  4. Tab Nichols

    Tab Nichols Stunt Coordinator

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    Sound advise Curtis... (no pun intended)

    However, Id be interested in knowing your reasoning behind this one.....

     
  5. Paul_C

    Paul_C Stunt Coordinator

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    I would think that having soft walls would introduce problems as it would absorb certain frequencies but you wouldn't know which ones.

    IMHO, hard walls are better. Build the room and then treat problematic frequencies.

    That's just my .02 which isn't a lot these days. [​IMG]

    Paul.
     
  6. CurtisG

    CurtisG Auditioning

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    The suggestion to use a single 1/2" layer of drywall on the inside wall came directly from Russ 'The Theater Guy' Herschelmann in his book "How to design, build, and calibrate your own Home Theater".

    Russ' explaination is that if the inside surface is too rigid, the bass will be irritating - "boomy in spots and wimpy in others".

    Who am I to argue with Russ?? [​IMG]

    --curtis
     
  7. Cary_H

    Cary_H Second Unit

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    We were often asked to build walls where better soundproofing was needed.
    We worked exclusively with metal track and studs, using wood only to beef up where doorframes and sidelights were going, or to scab between studs where cabinets and things were going to be hung off the wall.
    We'd use tracks and caps of 6" with conventional size studs attached alternately, front side, then backside. We'd weave rolls of pink insulation in zig-zag fashion. We often used 5/8" board, and occasionally went to double sheets on both sides.
    Any gaps were sealed up by stuffing more pink in the cavities sealed with expanding spray foam insulation.
     
  8. Wayne A. Pflughaupt

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    Shawn,

    If soundproofing is the objective, go with Cary’s suggestion – double sheetrock on both sides (or sheetrock/soundboard as Curtis suggested). I don’t know where Russ Herschelmenn is coming from, but soundproofing obviously isn’t his goal.

    Regards,
    Wayne A. Pflughaupt
     
  9. Tab Nichols

    Tab Nichols Stunt Coordinator

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  10. Wayne A. Pflughaupt

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    Actually, I was trying hard not to laugh...

    But since you ask – in most rooms you’re going to have places where the bass sounds better than others – I don’t see where thinner sheetrock is going to change that even subtly, much less to the point where it goes from “boomy in places and wimpy in others” to something resembling fabulous. Not to mention, with studs on 16” centers you’re not going to see much sheetrock flexing.

    But then I haven’t done any systems for Alex Trebek.

    Regards,
    Wayne A. Pflughaupt
     
  11. ShawnN

    ShawnN Auditioning

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    Thank you everyone for replying[​IMG] your suggestions have been of a great help. please continue adding hints or suggestions that might be aplicable
     

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