Speaker wire under a house

Discussion in 'Speakers' started by Kevin C Brown, Apr 6, 2004.

  1. Kevin C Brown

    Kevin C Brown Producer

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    In the past, I just drilled a hole in the floor, and snaked the cable down there. (Carpeted floor so the carpet fibers sort of hide the hole after all the wires are in there.) Anyone do anything differently? I'm thinking maybe special fittings in the floor around the wire, or insulation, and stuff? (I live in CA, so I'm not too worried about any heat loss through the hole.)
     
  2. gene c

    gene c Producer

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    At my brothers house, in Concord BTW, we ran a bunch of wires into a larger hole and used a plate simular to what the cable guy uses to run the cable wire thru the wall. This cleaned up the look as it is somewhat visible. We didn't do this where the wire came back up near each individual speaker though. We also used some left-over pvc pipe to run the wires thru under the house to protect them from rodents. A bit of overkill, but he only has a 1 1/2 foot crawl space and we wanted to make sure we never had to go under there again. Also, a little caulking around the hole under the house will keep insects, ants from getting in. Have fun! Gene
     
  3. John Garcia

    John Garcia Executive Producer

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    If it's not visible, just run a bead of RTV on it. If it is visible, use a wall outlet, they sell them in every type of termination you could want, including binding posts. IMO, though you should not need a permit to run the wires, I would either use in-wall or direct buirial wire, for the nice protective jackets for this type of run.
     
  4. Kevin C Brown

    Kevin C Brown Producer

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    Good suggestions. I have about a 2.5 ft crawl space, and they way I did it last time, was that I keep the wires taught (tot?) enough that they more or less hug the top of the crawl space. Not much droop. I like the RTV idea. I was actually thinking of that foam stuff, but RTV is "cleaner". Thanks! [​IMG]
     
  5. Kevin C Brown

    Kevin C Brown Producer

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    One more question, an attempt to save 1 trip under there:

    There are the floor boards, right: 6" x 1" or something. (The flat ones we walk on.) Then there are the cross beams, that provide the real weight bearing, 2" x 6" a guy at work told me. Is there a std distance between the cross beams? I.e., if I already have one hole drilled, if I meaure x left or right, I should still be between the cross beams. ?? Thanks!
     
  6. John Garcia

    John Garcia Executive Producer

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    I think the beam spacing has to do with the code at the time the house was built (and the contractor...), but I believe is generally around 16" on center. Not sure if a stud finder would work in this case, but it's worth a shot.
     
  7. Wayne A. Pflughaupt

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    Kevin, under the house, are the wires running parallel with the support beams, or perpendicular? Naturally they would be better protected if it’s the former, but either way I have an Arrow staple gun I use that’s designed for cabling – i.e., it shoots rounded (U-shaped) staples. If you staple the wires up you can keep them out of harm's way. I can get you a model number # etc. if you like – you can get them at any hardware store pretty cheap.

    Regards,
    Wayne A. Pflughaupt
     
  8. Kevin C Brown

    Kevin C Brown Producer

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    16" cool. This is what a guy here told me too.

    I was actually thinking similarly, of U shaped hooks that you can pound in with a hammer. But a staple gun would be easier! My wife has one of these for upholstering... [​IMG]
     
  9. Grant B

    Grant B Producer

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    There is only 1 choice for an engineer - Cable Trays!
    Every couple of feet attach something(wire, wood scraps etc) acroos 2 support beams and run the wire between them.
    Support beams go the wrong way? 2 x 4s in the direction you need.That way you can add or remove with ease.
    Metal conduit brackets are pretty good too
    Good Luck Bud!
     
  10. Pete_M3

    Pete_M3 Agent

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    THere are cable specific U-shaped tacks that have a plastic piece in the center to prevent damage to the wire and eliminate any potential for shorting. You just hammer them into the floor joists.

    I would not use a regular staple gun, if you go that route you need one with a U-shaped top.
     

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