Sound proof door? (1 Viewer)

[Curt Luther]

Has anyone ever used a door for you HT called Safe and Sound? I was at Home Depot today and they have a six panel door that they can special order that is filled with foam (solid core) and it is a interior door called Safe and Sound. They said it will be the best one. The price is reasonable I thought, $104 for a 30" door. Any feed back would be great.

Curt

 

[Ed O'Neill]

I have it and would recommend it I used to have a solid pine 6 panel door, but opted to not uise it once I did some investigating on the safe and sound door .

You must remember that most sound transmitted thru the HT is mostly bass. I have a bathroom directly behind my home theater and occasionally have to go use it....LOL. Well while using the bathroom all I can feel is the bass, nothing from mid/highs, but once I open the door Bamm! The highs and mids hit me.

Hope this helps. BTW There is another post about this when I find the link I will post it for you..

Signed
Ed

 

[Curt Luther]

Thank you Ed. I appreciate your feed back. I look forward to seeing the link. It seems that this door would be more sound proof than a solid wood door ( which I almost went with before asking ) also more attractive than the outside steel entry door.

Curt

 

[Juan Castillo]

Ed, you sure you are feeling the bass from the Theater in the bathroom?

 

[Eddie L]

I went to my HD and they had no idea what a Safe and Sound door was. Would any of you know the makers of the door so I can maybe give 'em that info?
Thanks,
Ed

 

[TonyGricar]

resurrecting this post, i'll tell you what i'm going to give a try as we originally wanted to just use heavy curtains to seperate a 70" wide opening i left at the bottom of the stairs to the laundry area (our theater takes half the basement, other half is utility/laundry. problem is the hvac is waaaaay to loud for my tastes, so i'm going to now have to frame for double doors. i was at hd today and was looking at their hollow core wood and composite cheapo slab doors. i'm going to cut into the bottom or top end and see if i can pack it with some of their accoustical R13 insulation ($8.50 a roll or so for 34ish ft x 16" x 3.5"). should have pretty dead door for a total of 30 bucks per, including insulation.

anyone think it won't work for some reason or another? maybe the doors aren't totally hollow?

-tony

 

[Tim Bargar]

It is not surprising that the door you're talking about stops the mids and highs at typical listening levels, but not the lows. What will be accomplished by stuffing a hollow core door with insulation is you'll minimize the door panel's vibration because the fiberglass will absorb energy. Your better off getting a typical interior door than getting a hollow core and stuffing it with insulation. An exterior, solid core with a threshold is even better.

Mass and physical separation is the way to prevent sound from being transmitted outside of the theater. Sound is transmitted through physical connection between the interior surfaces of the theater and surfaces outside the theater. When sound contacts a surface, it causes the surface to vibrate. Put your hand on the outside surface of the theater wall when some loud passages are playing and you'll know what I mean. Preventing the tranfer of that sound energy through to the outside of the theater is the goal for minimizing sound getting out of the theater.

There is an inverse relationship between frequency and sound energy. The lower the frequency, the greater the energy, and visa versa. Heavier, more dense walls and doors are required to minimize transfer of low frequency sounds while typical walls and doors will stop most higher frequencies at normal listening levels.

The best sound isolation is to build a room within a room with minimal contact between the inner and outer wall. Some people have even built a double door, interior door connected to the interior wall and exterior door connected with the exterior wall, with a small space between the doors. That way, there is an air space (1/4" to 1/2") completely surrounding the theater, separating the rest of the house from the theater. That way no sound can be physically transfered out of the theater.

 

[don costanza]

This may be a strange approach, would pumping the door full of the expandable foam help anything? Just something I thought of since our builder is taking a similar approach to our house, under the guise of "upgraded insulation".

Best Regards
Don

 

[Sonnie Parker]

If you have a thick enough wall for your door you can use a double door system.

I used 2 solid core doors with 2 thresholds and it works very well. Shutting one door is quite good but when that other door is shut it completely seals the highs and absorbs a good bit more of the bass.

See my HT link to see my double door system.

 

[TonyGricar]

don, the cans of spray foam a consumer would have access to would be significantly more expensive than stuffing it with fiberglass insulation, if cost were to be a consideration.
that stuff is different from what your builder is using.

you'll be glad you went with the upgraded foam, btw.

-tony

 

[don costanza]

Thanks Tony for the input... as I was reading the direction this thread was going in I thought I would toss the idea out there to see if it would be a viable option or not.

Best Regards
Don

 

[PhilBoy]

Expandable foam can blow the skins off your door...

Be careful.

 

[Eddie L]

I printed the first few of these threads and took to it to my HD. Still not knowing what was meant my a Safe & Sound Door, the doors/windows person contacted one of their distributors. It is made by Premdoor or Prem-door. Short for Premium door, I take it. All different sizes, smooth, textured, 6, 4, 3, or 2 panel. I got what I wanted, and only $10 more to ship to AK. THAT was amazing, considering my screen shipping was anywhere from $60 to $189. THAT was BS.
Ed

 

[Curt Luther]

Thanks for clarifying that Eddie. When I started the thread I could not remember the manufacturer. I think the cost is very reasonable. I was quoted $104 for a 30" door.
I will be ordering mine soon.

 

[Colin Goddard]

The last time I cut a hollow core door into several different pieces. I remember in had reinforced cardboard "ribs" spaced every 8-12 inches horizontally,running the entire height of the door.These ribs are normally glued to the inside of the door skin.The perimeter of the door is usually just a piece of 1"or 2" piece of pine, also glued to the inside of the door skin. I think you could have a tough job ahead of you trying to insulate a hollow core door.

Don't ask me why I cut that door up that way. I have been a carpenter for 30 years now, and I really don't remember.

 

[ScottH]

I am very interested in these doors, as I have a rough-in for a door to my workshop in my basement project which will be blocking off the sound of the furnace. My question is (actually two questions) - do they come in pre-hung, and if so, are they available in double-door?

 

[Curt Luther]

Scott,

I know for a fact they are pre hung...not sure about double door or not. I would go down to your nearest HD and ask them about it. I think it would work for you.

 

[ScottH]

Thanks Curt - Just what I wanted to hear. I just found this website for Premdor - Premdor

 

[TonyGricar]

thanks, colin. i had a bad feeling that might be the case. oh well, on to another solution...

tony

 

[MikeWh]

FYI-- It appears that in 2002, Premdor changed its name to Masonite International Corp. (it looks like after merging with Masonite), so you might want to consider that, when trying to special order.

The Safe N Sound line can be found at:
http://www.premdor.com/PRODUCT_GUIDE/Molded_doors.asp

Their catalog pages for the Safe N Sound can be found at:
http://www.premdor.com/PRODUCT_GUIDE/PDF/Molded.pdf