Sonosub Finally Started...

Discussion in 'Archived Threads 2001-2004' started by Mike Strassburg, Mar 16, 2002.

  1. Mike Strassburg

    Mike Strassburg Second Unit

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    I FINALLY started on my Sonosub today. Picked up a 28" x 60" piece of Multi Tube and got out the tools.

    Here's how I cut the tube to size and made it square: drove a screw into the tube about 2 inches from the end and used my carpenter's chalk line to make a nice purple line around the tube. Cut it with a fine tooth carbide tipped blade in my circular saw. Worked great!

    Tomorrow will pick up the MDF and other assorted goodies. Of course I'm still waiting on that darn HS500 amp from Adire. If it's not here in a few weeks I'm going with something else as I've been waiting about 3 months. Still caught up in Customs, so it's not Adire's fault, but I'm getting anxious.

    Think I'm going to cover the tube with black naugehyde and use flexstone on the endcaps. Of course due to it's size I'll have to try and hide it behind the TV due to SAF...

    I'll update as I go and will post some pics.

    Dual Tempests

    HS500

    480L

    Tuned to 17hz

    28" x 53" w/ 6" ports
     
  2. Mike Strassburg

    Mike Strassburg Second Unit

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    Cut the (2) pieces of 6"x20" PVC tonight.

    Tip #2: marked the cuts with a pencil and then wrapped 2" duct tape around to tube to get a square cut. Fine tooth hacksaw blade worked much better than course tooth.
     
  3. Jeffrey_S

    Jeffrey_S Stunt Coordinator

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    Hi Mike,
    It's great that you've begun. I'm not sure I'm going to be able to build a twin to yours. I may end up going with two conventional Adire Alignment boxes. It's the SAF thing. Anyway, I should have a final plan this week. Construction will begin shortly thereafter as I already have my Tempests. It's great that you have already begun. Keep us all informed of your progress.
    I'm still hopefull that I will build the sonotube design. If I do it will look like this:
    [​IMG]
    If I do build it, I'm still not sure how to power it. The HS500 was my first choice as well, but if its not available then I would consider two AVA250s or the PE equivalents. I'm open to any other suggestions.
    Good luck and keep us posted.
    Jeff
     
  4. Patrick Sun

    Patrick Sun Moderator
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    Jeff, are you worried about having too much air turbulence on one side of the sub? Or how about rotating the top encap 180 degrees to make a more balanced driver/port setup?
    ----
    Just to add one more way of making the cut line for tubes:
    My technique in creating a cut line around sonotube and ports is to create banners made from normal 8.5"x11" paper and wrap the banner around the tube, and then mark the line. This will always yield to a straight tube cut (provided the pages are taped up perfectly square).
    Click here for a shot of a banner-wrapped sonotube.
    I use the same technique with ports, just a short piece of banner is required.
     
  5. Dustin B

    Dustin B Producer

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    I can attest to Pat's method, I used it, and it worked wonderfully.
     
  6. Jeffrey_S

    Jeffrey_S Stunt Coordinator

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    Pat,

    I had the same concern and e-mailed Dan W as to whether or not I should stagger the drivers/ports on opposite sides. According to my recollection, Dan felt it made no difference and that it would be better to have the ports alligned in the event that something fell into the sub.

    Jeff
     
  7. Bryan Michael

    Bryan Michael Supporting Actor

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    i am still trying to get a good design i am thinking of going with 2 tube with 1 tempest in each that are 6 feet long laying on their side atop of each other. with the tempest on opsite ends in a 18 dianiter tube and make it look like a tabble. any one think this is posible
    here is a link to a webpage that i put a sketch on i would use braceing
    http://goinggonzo.tripod.com/gonzosworld/id11.html
     
  8. Mike Strassburg

    Mike Strassburg Second Unit

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    Jeff,
    Sorry to hear about the SAF thing. I'm building that sub, minus the extra top/bottom plates.
    Going to use 1 1/4" dowel painted "hammered silver" with rubber feet for legs. For the top I'm considering making a ring out of plywood and covering it with black cloth to make one "big" grill to cover the port/speaker. Nothing too fancy as it really won't be out in the open.
    Got all the endcaps cut today and glued the inners together. Tomorrow I'll cut the port/speaker openings and then glue the outer caps to the inners. Ended up going 30" for the outers for a 1" overhang. I'll probably round over the edges with the router.
    Should be done by next weekend if those Tempests ever arrive. I'm also considering something other than the HS500 if it's not here in a few weeks.
    I can't believe how EASY this thing is to build!!! I'm already having a hard time believing that something this simple to construct, and with only a couple of $150 subs will sound so awesome. Can't wait to make a believer out of myself [​IMG]
     
  9. Mike Strassburg

    Mike Strassburg Second Unit

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    A few more observations during construction:

    If you're only going to do this one time it's not necessary to spend the money on a circle jig. A piece of 1/8" pegboard will work fine. Just be sure to cut a test circle in a piece of scrap to verify your measurements.

    If you don't have a lot of c-clamps lying around you can either temporarily screw the endcaps together after gluing or stack a few hundred pounds of weight on them.

    Off to JoAnn Fabrics tomorrow for batting and perhaps the naughehyde covering. Unless the wife finds something better...gotta let her have some input.
     
  10. Mike Strassburg

    Mike Strassburg Second Unit

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    Still plugging along. No pics of the build-up as that's been done by many others, although I will post a few when it's finished.

    Nancy W said Tempests should arrive Friday. I'm hoping so I can at least finish the sub, but the HS500 still isn't in.

    In the last week I finished the endcaps, other than countersinking the subs. Countersunk the legs and routed out an opening for the binding posts. Lined the tube with a bunch of batting using spray glue. Legs are painted "hammered silver" and bottom endcap is painted "gray fleckstone".

    Tomorrow I'll glue/screw the ports in place and install the endcaps. Not going to paint the top endcap until it's installed. Getting close...
     
  11. Ron-P

    Ron-P Producer

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    Thanks for the progress reports Mike. My Tempest is also arriving Friday and I just finished picking up the last of my materials today. I'm going with a 6.3L sealed sonotube design. Going to start construction this weekend. Looking forward to some pics of yours.
    Peace Out~[​IMG]
     
  12. Mike Strassburg

    Mike Strassburg Second Unit

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    Ron,

    A sealed single Tempest sonotube will be a piece of cake to build. My dual Tempest ported has been so easy I'm starting to question/doubt it's ability to perform.

    That question will be answered soon......
     
  13. Mike Strassburg

    Mike Strassburg Second Unit

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    Ports are screwed/glued in place and sealed with silicone. Painted lip of top endcap. Tonight I'll install the legs and binding posts.

    Also cut out some MDF rings to make grills with. Since this is DIY I'm going to try making my own grills.

    Tempests arrived last Thursday, but still NO amp so I'm not in a huge hurry to finish it.

    Of course I haven't finished this one yet and I'm already thinking about the next one. Perhaps dual 1503's....
     
  14. Jeffrey_S

    Jeffrey_S Stunt Coordinator

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    Hi Mike,

    Glad to hear about your progress. Sorry I haven't contributed to this thread over the past week or so but I've been preoccupied with some other things. It looks like I'm going to go with twin conventional sub enclosures and not the dual sonotube beast. At this point I would have been happy with either choice. It just means a little more woodworking for me and I have a pretty well equiped shop. I can't wait for you to finally get some sound out of yours, though. You're getting real close now!

    Realizing that the HS500 might take a while to get, I was considering a samson amp if I had gone the sonotube route. I think it's what SVS recommends and I think that fan noise isn't much of an issue with these. It might be worth looking into and seeing if anyone who uses one of these could provide some real world observations.

    Please keep us all informed on your progress. I will do the same. I should be starting the first of my two subs within the next week as I have now ordered all the parts for it.

    Jeff
     
  15. Mike Strassburg

    Mike Strassburg Second Unit

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    Jeff,

    Thanks for the update and encouragement. I have been considering the Samson and told Dan W that I'm willing to wait 2 more weeks for the HS500 or else I'll get something else.

    Ran into a minor snag last night. Cut the 13 15/16" hole for the Tempest and now need to route away 5/8" inch to flush mount. Having a heck of a time finding a rabbeting bit that will cut that much. So far only found one on-line for $70....not good.

    I did finish the speaker grills last night. I'm pretty impressed with them for a DIY thing. I cut (2) 1" wide rings out of some scrap MDF. 1 has an inside opening of

    6 1/2" for the port and the other is 15 1/2" for the sub. I did a roundover on the outside and a cove on the inside. Painted them black flexstone and used silver metallic cloth. Looks pretty neat for about $8 total.

    Glued in the top endcap and will caulk tonight and put bottom cap into place. Getting close.....
     
  16. Brian Bunge

    Brian Bunge Producer

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    Mike,

    Will a 1/2" rabbeting bit not work? Check and see. It might be a little bit of a tight fit but might just work for you. Or, you could do what I did. Since most sub drivers have around a 3/4" thick flange depth, I cut one piece of MDF the diameter of the through hole and another piece the diameter of the exterior driver flange. Even if you have to recut some MDF it's still cheaper than a $70 bit.

    Brian
     
  17. Jeffrey_S

    Jeffrey_S Stunt Coordinator

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    Mike,

    I sympathize with that problem as I have learned the hard way to cut the recess before the through cut. I agree with Brian. If I were you, I'd add some thickness to the baffle, which never hurts, and add a 3/4 inch thick piece of MDF. Infact, this is the way I had planned to do it

    if I went with the sonosub. The Tempest has a 3/4 inch flange height.

    Jeff
     
  18. Mike Strassburg

    Mike Strassburg Second Unit

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    I found a rabbeting bit that will do a 9/16" cut that's 3/4" deep, so I'll only have to sand away 1/16", not too bad. Bit is $30 so I can live with that.
    I probably would have figured out to cut the recess first, but the darn Tempests were on back-order for sooooo long that I got tired of waiting and started building way before I had them in my hands.
    Would be too much trouble with the endcap already painted and glued/screwed into place.
    What's that about hindsight [​IMG]
     

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