Silly question about a DIY sub

Discussion in 'Archived Threads 2001-2004' started by tom_furman, Jul 31, 2002.

  1. tom_furman

    tom_furman Stunt Coordinator

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    I looked over Patman's DIY sub page and found it very useful. He did not want to mount his amp directly to the sub. If i build one, like to mount my amp to the sub. Where/how would I go about doing that? I havent seen any pics of a DIY sub with the amp attached.
     
  2. Darren_T

    Darren_T Second Unit

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    I just finished mine and it's easy. You need to use a plate amp first off. When you get the amp just measure the clearance and cut a hole for it. I used T-Nuts and hex head bolts to fasten mine but you can just use pan head wood srews preferably black. The amps come with a closed cell foam seal already in place usually. The amp housing is sound and air tight.
    [​IMG]
    Darren
     
  3. tom_furman

    tom_furman Stunt Coordinator

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    Thanks! So attaching an amp to sonotube would be impossible I assume. Where would you put your amp then? On the floor? Behind the sub?
     
  4. jeff lam

    jeff lam Screenwriter

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    It is possible but very difficult. Several have done it but I have only seen one flushmounted to a sonotube. I don't remember who it was. There was pics though. Do a search and maybe you can find it.
     
  5. tom_furman

    tom_furman Stunt Coordinator

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    Where do most sonotube people put their amp? just have it sit on their equipment rack?
     
  6. Darren_T

    Darren_T Second Unit

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  7. Dustin B

    Dustin B Producer

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    Thanks Darren. I wouldn't exactly call my method a flush mount. The advantage is it doesn't comprimise the integrity of the tube at all. Disadvantage is it makes it a little difficult to make the sock.
    Now, for a method (and an awesome job executing it) to flush mount an amp to a sonosub check Warrick's sub out:
    [​IMG]
    Lots of pictures and detail on how it was done here:
    http://members.optushome.com.au/wcallen/
     
  8. Darren_T

    Darren_T Second Unit

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    Oooooohhhhh prettttty. I like that too. If I make a sonosub for the next house I'm gonna do that.

    Darren
     
  9. tom_furman

    tom_furman Stunt Coordinator

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    Two more questions...

    1. the the design above...how exactly does that frame for the amp screw into the sonotube?

    2. is caulk really enough to hold the PVC port in place?
     
  10. Dustin B

    Dustin B Producer

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    Well mine has screws going from the inside into the mounting frame which was also glued on.

    The true flush mount one does the same thing but in the opposite direction (plus glue and calking I'm sure).

    As for the port. I put a couple nails in mine along with glue and calking. But glue, if the port is held into position while the glue is allowed to dry properly would be plenty strong enough. The caulking is more to just make sure there are no air leaks. The only hole you want in the box is the port.
     
  11. tom_furman

    tom_furman Stunt Coordinator

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    Thanks Darren! you're slowly educating me!

    last question for today...is there a list of "common" or "widely accepted" heights/diameters/port sizes to use with the 15" tempest and avs2500 amp?


    i'm open to any size really...height is not really an issue for me.
     
  12. Darren_T

    Darren_T Second Unit

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    Well your welcome.....but I think you meant Dustin for this post [​IMG]
    I'll take the thanks anyway though. I'll share with ya Dustin.
    Darren
     
  13. warrick

    warrick Stunt Coordinator

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    Thanks for the plug Guys
    Tom if you have any specific questions about my sub you can mail me at
    [email protected]
    Regards
    Warrick
     
  14. Dustin B

    Dustin B Producer

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    Well you'll have to do the math on the tube sizes (V = Pi x R^2 x H). Just has to be big enough for the driver to fit and long enough for the port to fit.

    Head to Adires site and they have pdf files listing reference designs for the Shiva and Tempest.

    They also have a free download of LspCAD that works with their drivers. You can use this to calculate how long a port needs to be for the enclosure volume you choose. You can also look at WinISD Pro for this purpose. You'll need this if you plan on using a larger port, don't use a smaller one than recommended in the reference designs though.
     
  15. Brian Bunge

    Brian Bunge Producer

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    Dustin,
    I ain't sure what kinda math you guys have up there in Moose-screwin' country (we screw deer down here!) [​IMG] but I believe the volume of a cylinder would be (V=R^2 x Pi x H). I'm not sure where you got 2R^2 from! [​IMG]
    Brian
     
  16. tom_furman

    tom_furman Stunt Coordinator

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    What diameters does sonotube come in? Anything a bit smaller than 24" that will fit a 15" driver?
     
  17. Mark Fitzsimmons

    Mark Fitzsimmons Supporting Actor

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    Area of a circle is PiR^2

    Volume of a cylinder is PiR^2h
     
  18. Dustin B

    Dustin B Producer

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    Hehe, oops. I confused the area and circumfrence formulas. I'll have to go edit that :p)

    Tom, it comes in 2" increments from less than 10" all the way up to over 40". I used 18" for my Tempest and I wouldn't go any smaller. Driver end cap would get too thin and it would be impossible to mount the legs on the bottom, you'd have to attach them to the side of the tube.
     
  19. Brian Bunge

    Brian Bunge Producer

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    Dustin,
    What, no comment about "Moose-screwing country"? You're slippin' man! I guess the job search is getting to ya? [​IMG]
    Brian
     
  20. Dustin B

    Dustin B Producer

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    Ya, I'm feeling sorry for myself in that reguard. But as for the moose comment, just letting you look like a fool. Moose screwing country is 5 hours to the east of me in Moose Jaw Saskatchewan. I'm in Saskatoon, all we got are kick ass berries [​IMG]
    Mmmm, Saskatoon berry pie. I gotta pick me up one of them [​IMG]
     

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