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[Mike Frezon]

Because...if I am trying to do a portrait, I am trying to be sure to get the eyes. If I've got the dog, let's say, out running in the field and I'm doing action shots...auto-focus it is, for sure.

Maybe I'm doing it wrong, but if I'm doing a portrait it almost seems like the field of the auto-focus (that line of red dots) is too big and it becomes a crapshoot as to what eventually ends up getting focused upon (the eyes, the nose, the background behind the top of his head...).

 

[Citizen87645]

This article explains AF points and why manual selection of AF point(s) or a zone will yield better results.

http://www.techradar.com/how-to/pho...af-points-to-use-and-when-to-use-them-1320976

You can also start using the lock-focus-and-recompose technique.

https://photographylife.com/focus-and-recompose-technique/

What camera do you have?

 

[JohnRice]

I haven't read the article yet, but that's the way to go. I only use the big, tracking focus areas for action. Otherwise, I set a small focus area, using back button focus. With non moving subjects (scenics) I just leave the focus area in the middle and prefocus. With something like portraits, I move the focus area to where I want it.

 

[DavidJ]

Manual selection of autofocus points for the win

 

[Scott Merryfield]

I haven't read the article yet, but that's the way to go. I only use the big, tracking focus areas for action. Otherwise, I set a small focus area, using back button focus. With non moving subjects (scenics) I just leave the focus area in the middle and prefocus. With something like portraits, I move the focus area to where I want it.

That is pretty much how I focus, except I don't do back button focus. I know lots of people love BBF, but I find it awkward. I use my thumb to move the AF point where I want it, and I just cannot coordinate that with also using my thumb for BBF.

 

[Mike Frezon]

Wow. This is the kind of input I always crave, but hate to ask for. Many, many thanks. You guys are very generous.

I'm sorry to derail this thread though.

What camera do you have?

The most bottom of the line there is. The Canon Rebel XS. Lenses are 18-55, 55-250 and a fixed 50.

I'm going to pore over that info about focusing (especially the manual selection of autofocus points--something I didn't even know was possible) and figure out the right way to do things. Thanks, fellas.

 

[DavidJ]

Wow. This is the kind of input I always crave, but hate to ask for. Many, many thanks. You guys are very generous.

I'm sorry to derail this thread though.



The most bottom of the line there is. The Canon Rebel XS. Lenses are 18-55, 55-250 and a fixed 50.

I'm going to pore over that info about focusing (especially the manual selection of autofocus points--something I didn't even know was possible) and figure out the right way to do things. Thanks, fellas.

https://support.usa.canon.com/kb/index?page=content&id=ART103813&cat=0901e02480115adb&actp=LIST

That is pretty much how I focus, except I don't do back button focus. I know lots of people love BBF, but I find it awkward. I use my thumb to move the AF point where I want it, and I just cannot coordinate that with also using my thumb for BBF.

Most of the time I operate this way too. I am also normally locking exposure with my thumb.

 

[JohnRice]

Mike, each camera is different regarding where the buttons are and what can be customized. I was using a Nikon D7100, which is a somewhat small body, lower end camera than the D500 I have now. People use the term "Back Button Focus" but you don't necessarily have to use the back button. It's just a general term for separating focus activation from the shutter release. On the D7100, the back button was too close to the viewfinder to be easy to use with glasses, so while I programmed that for focus activation, I also programmed a button on the front, below and to the side of the lens as a duplicate. So, I could activate focus with either button.

The D500 is bigger and the back button is further from the viewfinder, so I only programmed the back button for focus. Now the bottom front button is exposure lock, my version of what David just mentioned. The D500 lets you program exposure lock either to activate when you hold the button, or each time you hit the button it toggles on and off, plus it turns off after you take a photo. The way I shoot, when I'm locking in an exposure, I usually want to work with that shot for a while, so I just determine the exposure, then set it manually, but I have that quick option if I want it for just one shot.

Back button focus was a little awkward at first, but I got used to it quickly and now it's the only way I'd usually go.

 

[Scott Merryfield]

The most bottom of the line there is. The Canon Rebel XS. Lenses are 18-55, 55-250 and a fixed 50.

I'm going to pore over that info about focusing (especially the manual selection of autofocus points--something I didn't even know was possible) and figure out the right way to do things. Thanks, fellas.

The Rebel line is a little more awkward for moving the AF point than with Canon's higher end bodies, which have a separate joystick which can be programmed for this function. The Rebel will have fewer AF points, as well. However, it's still better to move the AF point even with these limitations than rely on the camera to pick the correct AF point. At the very least, you should use the "half press to lock focus & then recompose" method to put the AF point where you desire.

Also, I would suggest using just a single AF point instead of multiples/zones for any stationary subjects. That way you know exactly where focus will be. I only use multiple AF points -- either expanded single point or zone -- when shooting fast moving subjects, such as birds in flight, running wildlife, ice hockey, etc. I also use "one shot" focus for all stationary objects, and only use AI Servo when shooting action (some people use AI Servo all the time). With the higher end camera bodies, it's pretty easy to switch between all these settings, as my two bodies have three custom mode settings on the mode dial (C1, C2, C3) where the selection options of aperture priority, shutter priority, manual, etc. are located. I use C2 for general action, with settings like shutter priority, expanded center AF point, AI Servo, high speed continuous shutter, Auto ISO, etc. Then I can easily switch between my normal stationary settings and action with a single twist of the mode dial. Unfortunately, I do not think the Rebel line has these custom modes, instead opting to use the dial space for preset modes like "action", "landscape", etc.

 

[Mike Frezon]

At the very least, you should use the "half press to lock focus & then recompose" method to put the AF point where you desire.

THIS much I was doing.

This all makes so much sense...I'm a little angry at myself for not learning about it sooner.

The simple ability to reduce that auto-focus field is going to make a HUGE difference for me.

I used to love the focus mechanism on my Olympus OM-10. I'm now going to love it on the Canon.

My plan (as I sit here and ruminate) would be to adjust the camera to just have a single AF point (dead center) that I would use to pinpoint my focus and then compose what I want.

What's that expression?? RTFM.

I promise to be taking pictures this weekend and posting here to get back on topic!

 

[Mike Frezon]

I promise to be taking pictures this weekend and posting here to get back on topic!

Who needs to wait for the weekend?

I manually changed the autofocus settings on the camera to include just the center dot and set out to take a few pictures of Ernest tonight in my backyard.

Here's the best of the lot. The problem with Ernest is that his understanding of the word "Stay" needs some improvement. But here we go:

My favorite: a closeup in front of my old-fashioned swing-open garage doors:

A "sit" after retrieving a tennis ball:

And a full-body shot:

I was able to nail the eye focus on these shots. So I feel like I've taken some baby steps...

Thanks to you all.

 

[Mike Frezon]

I was in such a rush to post those images, I didn't manipulate them in any way.

Here's that last shot cropped:

 

[Sam Posten]

Ernest 4 the win! That garage door shot is STUNNING
BBF 4 life!

 

[JohnRice]

Mike, an unsolicited suggestion. Make an effort to take more pics at the level of your subjects, or even lower. Get down and dirty. Give people a view they don't normally see.

 

[Mike Frezon]

Mike, an unsolicited suggestion. Make an effort to take more pics at the level of your subjects, or even lower. Get down and dirty. Give people a view they don't normally see.

Thanks, John! That's one of the tricks I have tried to use over the years. PLEASE, feel free to send any such tips and suggestions my way. I feel I am weakest in knowing how to use the features of the camera...the technical stuff, settings, etc. I know most people in this thread are Nikon guys and that no one else has my specific camera...but anything that you (or anyone) might suggest I should learn I promise that I will open the manual and then take some shots. (if things get too cumbersome in this thread, I will move all pertinent posts into a new thread).

But here's a new shot taken today with my newest muse, Ernest! Still getting used to my new focusing system and trying to capture shots that do the animals justice.

I am enjoying how much better these images are than the jillions of images I have been taking with my iPhone. Those pix are really good--for what they are--but I couldn't take an image as rich as this:

 

[DavidMiller]

Took my first few shots with my new camera. Canon M6.

 

[Carabimero]

 

[Scott Merryfield]

Where was that shot taken, Alan? It reminds me a little of Watkins Glen in Upstate New York, but with more trees.

 

[Carabimero]

Where was that shot taken, Alan? It reminds me a little of Watkins Glen in Upstate New York, but with more trees.

Colorado. You have a nice shot here, as well.

 

[JohnRice]

Here's one of this year's batch of yard bunnies. This one was being a good subject and gave me plenty of nice poses.

Tech stuff: Nikon D500 with Sigma 150-500mm @450mm (675mm effective) handheld at ISO 6400 1/640 f/8 -0.7 EV

Note: I do all my work on these on a wide gamut monitor at full RGB, and the images I post on HTF are always a little darker and more saturated than I intend them to be.