Service Menu for Sony KV-32FS100?

Discussion in 'Displays' started by Scott Burke, Feb 17, 2004.

  1. Scott Burke

    Scott Burke Second Unit

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    Is the service menu still the same for the KV-32FS100 that is listed on this site http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/sonyadj.html

    I would like to adjust the overscan of my girlfriends tv, but I don't want to mess it up either. I used that service menu to adjust my overscan about 3 or 4 years ago, so I just wanted to know if it still applyed to today's tv's. Thanks.
     
  2. Chad B

    Chad B Stunt Coordinator

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    Scott,

    Yes, that's the same process for current Sony's.
    While you're in there, there's 2 other harmless tweaks you could perform, like the "Axis" color decoder entry, or "Y-DC" or "DPIX" for improving black level retention.

    Chad
     
  3. Scott Burke

    Scott Burke Second Unit

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    What should the settings be? I see that one is "DPIX 0-3" and "Y-DC 0-15"
     
  4. Chad B

    Chad B Stunt Coordinator

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    Set both to 0. Then readjust the brightness or black level. The TV should hold it's black level much, much better when the average picture level changes.

    Chad
     
  5. Scott Burke

    Scott Burke Second Unit

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    Thanks Chad. I sent you a personal message after you responded the last time, but you must not have gotten it.
     
  6. Chad B

    Chad B Stunt Coordinator

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    Scott, sorry I missed your PM! I found it now and PM'd a reply.
     
  7. Scott Burke

    Scott Burke Second Unit

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    Chad,

    When I went through the adjustments, I did not find either. What I did see was "YDC" and "YDYC." Are either of those what you are talking about? I did not see a "AXIS" or "DPIX" adjustment.

    Also, when I adjusted for overscan using VE, I set the tv to the 5 line, however I notice that one side of the tv did not display as much as the other side. In fact, now there is a curve to the picture at the top right (if your looking at the screen). Should I have not adjusted that much?

    I really appreciate all the answers. Thank you, Scott
     
  8. Scott Burke

    Scott Burke Second Unit

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    bump
     
  9. Chad B

    Chad B Stunt Coordinator

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    Scott,

    I'll do some research for you and find out.
     
  10. Chad B

    Chad B Stunt Coordinator

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    Scott,

    I just looked at that site and noticed it didn't say anything about submenus. The AXIS and other things I talked about, if they are there, will be in the 2150P-3 submenu. Buttons 2 and 5 scroll back and forth between the submenus.
    The YDC is one of the black level retention settings that I was talking about. If there's no AXIS, then it probably has full color adjustments, like R-YR, etc. They are actually slightly superior, but take more effort to calibrate.
    The overscan will have an effect on geometry, but the effect should be slight. There should be geometry adjustments in yet another submenu that will take care of it. In projections, it is called the PJE menu, and I think it's the same for direct views, but I'm not positive. There should be a HPOS, horizontal positioning, adjustment in the 2150D-2 submenu. Again, I think it's there for direct views, but I'm not positive.
    Let me know if this helps, and good luck! Don't forget to write down your settings.
     
  11. Scott Burke

    Scott Burke Second Unit

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    Just wanted to let you know that I checked my tv, and it had most of those in the menu. I changed the ones that you said and also changed the SHPF to 3 from 0, and DCOL from 1 to 0. According to that site, SHPF helps with S-Video Sharpness, and the DCOL helps eliminate the blue from white. I noticed the change immediately when I did the DCOL. Tonight, I will reset my brightness and contrast controls.

    I'm a little scared to adjust geometry without some sort of reference, so I'll probably just leave that alone. I do want to eventually get both my girlfriends and my tv's ISF Calibrated, but it will have to wait.

    Should the YDC be set to 0? Thanks again!!
     
  12. Chad B

    Chad B Stunt Coordinator

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    Yes, YDC should be at 0. AXIS or AXPL should be at 1. It wouldn't hurt to double check them with a test disc, but I'm confident they're right.
    For the geometry, a test disc will be a big help. Use a grid, crosshatch, or circle hatch pattern that fills your whole screen. But it can be very daunting, so don't feel bad if you don't want to try it. I agree with you that when you can swing it, the ISF calibrations are a very good idea! (I'm biased, of course, but it's an undeniable fact!)[​IMG]
     
  13. Chad B

    Chad B Stunt Coordinator

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    I've done a 34" WEGA that did. It came in very handy. Unfortunately, I can't say for the smaller sizes.
     
  14. My 27" WEGA doesn't seem to have DPIX (Dynamic picture).

    I did set AXNT (red push) to 0 and AXPL (red/yellow cleanup) to 1.

    Could anyone verify that my color settings are OK, they differ quite a bit from the web printout I have:

    RCUT=20
    GCUT=17
    BCUT=18

    RDRV=30
    GDRV=27
    BDRV=24

    Forgot to look for DCOL (purer whites), need to go back for that..
     
  15. Chad B

    Chad B Stunt Coordinator

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    Frank,

    Do you have a test DVD, like Avia, DVE, or S & V Tuneup? That's the absolute best way to verify what you've done. If you do, I'll try to help you with verifying these things.

    Chad
     


  16. Well, back in the day, I blew $50 on the Video Essentials LD.

    I did use it occasionally, but not to the point where I'd glady buy more calibration software in the present.

    If I had a more expensive set, then the cost might seem more justified.

    I do currently use the THX calibrator for basic stuff (white levels, black levels, sharpness).

    My color settings are the WEGA defaults, except for tweaked red levels.

    I'm sure they're more or less OK, but I thought it was interesting that the gun/color levels weren't equal.
     

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