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Seeking Soundproofing Advice

Discussion in 'Home Theater Projects' started by Han Burgundy, Apr 1, 2019.

  1. Han Burgundy

    Han Burgundy Auditioning

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    Mika Dine
    Long time listener, first time caller, so please be gentle.
    We're in the process of a full home remodel, and I'm working on a dual-use room that will be both a Home Office and a Home Theater. I know this makes it an odd space, but I work full time from home and it's my only option to have a room that serves both purposes.
    My planned layout is in the attached photo.
    This room has 3 exterior walls, 1 interior wall and it's a single story home. So my main concern is sound being passed through the rest of the house. The shared wall is with a guestroom that won't be used too often.
    In-ceiling speakers and at least 2 high hat lights will be put in too.
    A/V rack will live in the closet, and projector will be ceiling mounted, as will a retractable screen (not sure whether this will be recessed or not).

    My questions are about my current soundproofing plans which I will layout below.
    Jumping to the questions:
    1. Is this a decent soundproofing plan given a more basic budget?
    2. Would you recommend a different ceiling soundproofing plan?

    The Soundproofing Plan:
    For the interior wall, Rockwool Insulation, then a resilient channel w/ resilient clips, followed by QuietRock Drywall, then Green Glue Compound, then another Drywall layer w/ Green Glue Sealant as needed. Also Quiet Puddy for the outlets.
    For the ceiling, same as above, minus the resilient channel.
    Also getting a solid core door, and as of yet determined door soundproofing solution.

    -HB

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    IMAGE LINK
     
  2. Bobofbone

    Bobofbone Second Unit

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    Bob
    I think your plan is reasonable, as far as it goes. I'd have some further suggestions though.
    1) I'd use sound isolation clips and double dry wall for the ceiling as well, if the the area above the room communicates with the rest of the house. Insulation over the area would also be useful in reducing sound both ways.
    2) Do the same treatment for the closet, if one is included.
    3) Ventilate the closet if you're using it for powered equipment to prevent overheating.
    3) Any ceiling speakers and lights that perforate the ceiling will be a source of sound leakage. They should be contained. There are pot lights already built that way, and speakers can be contained in a sound insulated box if they are recessed into the ceiling.
    4) HVAC systems are another area that can allow sound into and out of the room. There area a number of ways to address the problem. The more expensive one is to have an isolated HVAC system. I'm not that much of a purist, and I used a combination of sound insulated duct work that was flexible, and placed in a serpentine layout with multiple S curves to minimize sound leakage into them, into the adjacent parts of the house. That's pretty inexpensive-the duct work was going there anyway, and I just used a longer length of a slightly more expensive version. I also put 2 dead vents into the room-one for intake and one for exhaust. These were rectangular boxes with the same sort of serpentine ducting, surrounded by fiberglass insulation, with an inline blower set up with a variable speed. At medium speed, they perform 4-6 room changes per hour, and provide the real room ventilation (the other duct work just ran in the ceiling to other areas).
    5) The sound insulation techniques have a favorable effect on internal acoustics. However, you'll achieve a better effect if you have at least three of the six surfaces treated. The double dry wall with green glue or other viscoelastic bounding tends to absorb medium sound frequencies and reduce audible echo when used on at least one of each opposed surface. Once you start on part of the room, doing a third wall isn't that much more expensive or more work, and is worth the improvement.
    6) If you are using a projector, you might want to include something to reduce light coming through the window. While this might take track shades to completely light proof, depending on the projector, this may not be necessary.
    7) I'd agree with a solid core door. You might want to weather strip it, and have a flexible runner on the bottom.

    I did something quite similar in my theater. I treated three walls and the ceiling, and had an irregular surface on one wall using a stone facing. This diffused sound somewhat, and looked pretty good. Thunder storms are barely audible when nothing is on in the room. With the doors closed, while playing the carrier take off scene from Top Gun at reference volume, the ceiling fan at medium speed in the bedroom above blots out sound from the theater (although my wife ways she can feel vibration from the subwoofers). We also had a family reunion a few years back. The theater was pretty popular. Stars Wars New Hope was going inside a a pretty good volume, and nobody upstairs knew it.

    Post pictures with an update as things go along.
     

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