After reading several posts concerning RPTV calibration, I have a couple of questions for the experts here. I have always tried to be extremely careful where my RPTV is concerned (a Mitsu WS65511), especially where the possibility of burn-in is concerned. So much so that the first thing that I did when I got the set was to turn the contrast and brightness waaayyyyy down. After subsequent calibration with DVE: 1)The brightness was easy; it is currently set at approx 55% 2)As for contrast, I could not see the “Blume” that DVE refers to, so I used the color bars and set it just above the point where true white becomes off-white. The final setting is about 27%. 3)The sharpness control never seemed to make any difference, whether at 0% or 100%, so I turned it completely down. 4)Colors I got as close as I could given the Mitsu’s red push. I never considered VSM until reading a few posts recently, so I checked… sure enough, it was on. One thread mentioned the possibility that VSM could contribute to tube wear, so I immediately turned it off. The picture became extremely soft and indistinct (the sharpness is completely off), but I have gotten used to the fake detail added by VSM over the last few years. I am thinking this is why the sharpness never had any effect: VSM. Last night, I tried setting the sharpness using the DVE test patterns. I focused on a fine detail pattern, and increased the sharpness until the blurriness was minimized (to my eyes), and I never noticed any of the artifacts VSM had produced (I was switching back and forth). To my surprise, the best picture was obtained with sharpness set full-up?!? I know from reading here that excessive sharpness = bad… So, long story short (too late?), here are my questions: 1) I have ingrained in my brain cell that torch mode = running brightness and contrast full-on. As a result, the idea that full-on anything is potentially bad follows. I don’t know how sharpness works (or VSM, for that matter… what’s the difference?), but could running it high damage the tube? 2) Since I have been so used to the fake detail afforded by VSM, what can I look for in the test patterns to know I’ve got it “right”, without going too high (even at full-on, I still do not see any of the VSM edge-enhancement artifacts)? 3) I know that it is best to wait until the set warms up (about 30 min) before adjusting the convergence. Is this also true where sharpness is concerned?