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Router on the way... bits everyone should have? (1 Viewer)

Brian J Dupuis

Second Unit
Joined
Jul 8, 2001
Messages
341
Well guys, took the plunge (nyuk, nyuk) and ordered a Bosch 1613AEVS 2HP plunge router used off Amazon today. After much soul-searching, review reading and gut-wrenching decision making, this seemed like a reasonable deal to get me started on my road to bankruptcy building speakers :).
Now that I have the router on the way, what are the basic bits that every aspiring speaker builder should have in his arsenal? I hope that this isn't a FAQ... I did do the requisite site search before popping out a schmuck question at least.
Thanks.
 

Brian Fellmeth

Supporting Actor
Joined
Jul 30, 2000
Messages
789
How bankrupt do you want to be ? Unfortunately, the cheap bits don't work well with MDF. You need carbide and most need a bearing rather than that nubbin. For sub endcaps, a 1/4 spiral is good (looks like a drill bit). A adjustable rebbating for flush mounts. A 1/8 inch straight for cutouts (non circular ports, small jaspar circles). If you want your cabinets not to have square edges, get a large roundover bit. Watch out for shank size. They come in 1/4 and 1/2 inch. 1/2 is better but not sure if your Bosch can use them.
 

Shayne Judge

Stunt Coordinator
Joined
May 8, 2000
Messages
137
I am also considering building the 281 kit by Adire with 3/4" mdf. Any recommendations on a particular router bit to help connect the mdf at the joints?
 

John S Smith

Agent
Joined
Dec 16, 2001
Messages
41
I would recommend your first purchase to be a set of rub collars availlable from any Woodworking supply house, Rockler for example, then a couple of 1/2" straight bits, morticing type, (that is that the bit will have cutting edges on the end as well as the sides which allows you to use your plunge feature wuthout burning out your bit the first time you use it) these are availlable in a bewildering variety, single flute, double flute, upcut spiral, downcut spiral, ad nauseum. Some basic wood/cutting tips. HSS bits will cut faster and cleaner initially but dull faster than carbite, carbide, cobalt, cadmium plated or whatever the latest fad is. End mills usually used for cutting steel can be bought in bulk very cheaply and if used with a set of rub collars can give you good sevice wthout paying for ball bearing guided bits. I presume you will be cutting mostly 3/4" stock as end mills tend to be fairly short, if you use 1/4" masonite for your templates these will work fine. Invest your money saved in a Bosch Jigsaw to hog out the majority of the material prior to routing, this will extend the life of your bits. A roundover bit would be next, buy the rest as you need them, if you buy a set I doubt you will use half of them. Check out Woodworker.com or Woodweb.com for supplies and help from people that work with wood all the time, good luck.
 

David A. Frattaroli

Stunt Coordinator
Joined
May 10, 1999
Messages
173
I'd get the best bits you can afford. I'd rather have 3 great bits rather than a set of 12 average ones.
Anyway, to answer your question, get:
3/4" straight bit for dadoes you might use for internal
braces of 3/4" MDF. A 1/2" straight wouldn't hurt since you may use 1/2" ply for braces in smaller speakers. Plus, in a router table with a fence, these bits can be used to cut rabets.
1/2" and/or 3/4" round-over bits for rounding off cabinet corners.
I like a 3/8" rabet bit with a baring because it's great for creating rabet joints for cabinets made out of 3/4" MDF.
With a baring, you can cut these free-hand if you don't have a router table.
Right now, I have a bunch of bits because it seems each project requires another. You'll see that is the case for you as well.
Good luck.
Beware, I made a pair of speakers once and got sucked into woodworking. So I made this for my son. Now I'm hooked on a new hobby that requires much hardware!
Link Removed
 

Vince Bray

Stunt Coordinator
Joined
Oct 4, 2000
Messages
170
If you plan to build boxes two layers or more thick, you need to consider a large flush cut-off. It's like a straight bit but is only 1/2" radius all the way down, with a bearing at the end. This is used to flush up edges after gluing. I used this method on the last box I made and it's very easy. You start by building a very square initial box (just 4 sides, not 6). Now all the other pieces are cut about 3mm oversize on all sides. Glue the pieces on, then go around with the router and trim. As you build the second box around the first, it will all line up great.

I would also second the roundover recommendation, and make sure that straight bits you buy are "plungeable", they have a little extra tooth on the very end to eat their way in.

Vince
 

Hank Frankenberg

Senior HTF Member
Joined
Oct 13, 1998
Messages
2,573
Brian, I buy all my router bits from MLCS. a 1/4" solid carbide spiral upcut bit is, IMO, a necessary bit for routing MDF. Buy as large a radius roundover bit as you can afford if you plan to roundover your front vertical speaker cabinet edges (to minimize defraction distortion effects). I also highly recommend their "Merle" brand band clamps for holding your cabinets square while glueing them up.
 

Jack Gilvey

Senior HTF Member
Joined
Mar 13, 1999
Messages
4,948
Brian,
If you haven't seen it already, I recommend the purchase of a Jasper Circle Jig to go along with your router. For use with it, Jasper recommends a 1/4" plunge bit. I use a solid carbide spiral upcut bit like Frank pointed out, mine are from Ridge Carbide .
 

Brian J Dupuis

Second Unit
Joined
Jul 8, 2001
Messages
341
I recommend the purchase of a Jasper Circle Jig to go along with your router.
:) The Jasper is sitting near my amp, driver, and polyfill out in the garage waiting for the fun to start. The Bosch router I got was on the list of "supported" routers, so that helped in my decision. Yeah, I figured the Jasper Jig was almost a given after all the praise lavished on it in here.
 

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