Replacing the sub driver in a factory sub

Discussion in 'Archived Threads 2001-2004' started by Gary_Sc, Jul 19, 2002.

  1. Gary_Sc

    Gary_Sc Agent

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    I have an Atlantic Technology 222 powered sub. It uses a 10" driver. It appears that the driver has seen its last days. Will it be worthwhile to replace the factory driver with a 10" Titanic or something similar? The sub cabinet is sealed and measures 19.75" wide, 14.75" high, and 13" deep. I removed the driver tonight and the cabinet is filled with what appears to be regular insulation. I had not planned on replacing the sub right now so I'm trying to get away as cheaply as possible. Is this even worthwhile? Will the sub sound better with the new Titanic driver than it did with the factory driver? Thanks.

    Gary
     
  2. Rory Buszka

    Rory Buszka Supporting Actor

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    Do This:
    http://www.linearteam.org/
    Use the FREE program WinISD. Measure the interior volume of your box in cubic feet (U need to find out how thick the panels are and then U can find out how much volume is inside. You won't get a very good measurement from just taking the exterior dimensions of the box.
    Then, once you have the interior volume, plug in the Thiele-Small parameters of the driver (Qts, Fs, etc.) and look at the response graph. If it rolls off before 30 Hz, U need to look into a different driver.
    I'm sure other people can also provide suggestions.
     
  3. Nathan Bower

    Nathan Bower Extra

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    A word of encouragement from me: I recon that any 10" driver in the $100-200 range will make you grin from ear to ear.

    Drivers used in commercial systems really dont cost that much: The Audax C0170 drivers I used in my 2-way mains are used in a $14000 system. They cost me £55 the pair. So just imagine what goes into mission speakers / subs!!!

    N
     

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