Replacing subwoofer/s (1 Viewer)

[George Monroy]

What is the best brand of subwoofer?

I currently have 2 JL Audio 10 inch subs in my car. I have to replace one of them that is dead. I have replaced 2 of them so far over the years. i paid roughly $90 for each sub. Is there a better brand subwoofer for about the same money?

 

[VinhT]

Unfortunately, JL Audio is one of the worst brands when it comes to value. (Full disclosure: I run all JL equipment in my car.)

There is no best brand of subwoofer, only a best sub for your particular application.

A popular alternative to JL subs is Elemental Designs Audio. You would have to tell me which JL subs you have in order for me to make a direct comparison, but I think the e10Kx.44/x.14 or the e12Kx.44/x.14 may give the JL subs a run for your money. They cost $75 and $85 respectively.

 

[George Monroy]

Thanks. I am not sure which ones I have. I will check my receipt. Hopefully it has the details. I will get back to you.

I have a box that houses both JL Audio ten inch woofers in teh trunk of my 95 Mazda Millenia.

What is the difference between the single or double 4 ohm speakers?

I am also running with an MB Quartz mid and high set up front and some 3 way Pol Audio speakers in the rear if that helps.

 

[DonnyD]

You really need to get on top of this "ohms" thing before you buy. First, make sure what your amp is rated for.... at mono load and stereo load. Then buy the subwoofers that allows you to match that requirement. A single voice coil subwoofer at 4 ohms will run at 4 ohms by itself but along with another of the same, will run either 2 ohms or 8 ohms, according how you wire it up.....
Then on a dual voice coil 4 ohm, ONE woof can be wired either 2 ohm or 8 ohm but when you wire it mono to another of the same, you're gonna be 1 ohm, 4 ohm, 16 ohm.....ie... gooking up multiple DVC can get confusing....

Personally, If I were to use 2 subs wired mono to an amp, I'd use SVC 8 ohm, wired for a 4 ohm load, which most amps will handle with ease.
Good luck and post your upgrade and what you ended up doing......

 

[Scott L]

I'd go AA Brahma.

The wait list for a A series ED can be long, and this still applies if you break it during its 3-year warranty period. I have the 12a and it's pretty good, but I've heard the Brahma sounds even better.

 

[Scott.J]

Really. I thought JL wa a fairly good brand. I run 2 10's in my car for just over a year now, and I havnt had any problems

 

[Scott L]

JL arguably makes the best sub money can buy in the W7 series. Check out this vid of one handling some test tones:

http://mason.gmu.edu/~jleonar1/w7excer.wmv

 

[DipulP]

Hey George,

It would be very helpful if you could tell me the Amplifier you are using, as well as the JL 10 model numbers.

I've been running JL for years, and have never had them blow up on me, and I abuse them . I fear that you may have a deeper problem.

Also, the wiring configuration will help, (IE if you are using a 4 channel amplifier, is it bridged? Also, are the 10's you have dual voice coil? If so, the way you have them wired is crucial.)

I personally love JL, and doubt i would consider another sub, (although the Alpine Type R and the Infnity Kappa's turn my head :-D ).

 

[Steve Lumbert]

I agree with George. I have had the same 2 JL10W0 subs in my truck for 5 years now with no problems. They have surpassed my expectations considering the bass heavy music I listen to and how hard I push them on a regular basis.

 

[Tyler Cookson]

I agree, JL subs are good, but for the money there is SO much better. the ED O series has sound quality just as good as a W7, but will lack in SPL, however, you can buy about 4 12 O's for the price of one 13W7 which would give you just as good sound quality, and MUCH more output.

It really all depends on what you are looking for. If you would like a wonderful mix of SQ and SPL get something with XBL^2 motors. the Adire audio Brahma and Tumult both share these motors. The tumult would out displace the W7 and hit the lows a hole lot better. There are so many better alternatives than a W7. check out www.adireaudio.com www.respl.com and for more help on this go to www.caraudioforum.com

 

[Lee M T]

I'm assuming the JL subs you have are W0's or W1's?

Right now Phoenix Gold is closing out their Titanium line to make way for their new Xenon line (which unfortunately, is now made overseas). Anyhow, the Titanium subs are PG's high-end line and the subs are great and can be had for ridiculously low prices. You can find the 15" sub from cbrstereo.com for $99, when it originally had an MSRP of $349 I think. I just bought a pair of Ti 10's from cbrstereo for $168 shipped. These aren't authorized though. A pair of 10's authorized from somewhere like thezeb.com will be around $220 or so.

These subs can take quite a bit of power though, rated at 500 RMS for the 10 and 12" and 650 for the 15". These subs would demolish what a W0 or W1 can do, for that matter, a W3 as well. These subs are designed for sound quality, but can blow your head of if you'd like them too.

Picture of Titanium 10

 

[David.G]

mmm...ED is just a good as JL. JL W7 is overrated now. Still good but they are others right with it. ED or Image Dynamics, and AA. ED is best in a sealed box and requires less power. IDMAX v.2 will blow away the ED and AA and w7, but cost almost as much as a W6, 350$. If i were you and wanted to save $$, get 2 K series 12"s or 1 IDMAX 12d4 sub. AA is solid SQ and good SPL. Pretty much same as A series ED sub.