Repairing a binding post? Need help, please! (1 Viewer)

[Ron Boster]

To make a long story short....while filling the Atlantic Tech's speaker stand with sand (350 series front speaker)...without thinking, I slid the speaker while on it's back and broke off the one binding post. I don't want to replace the post, but would like to reattach the gold plated threaded post (it broke in half). Is there any product that serve as a conductive glue or do I have to sodder (sp?) the post back together?
Thanks
Ron Boster

 

[DaleB]

Tread lightly. If you use heat for the repair you could desolder whatever is at the other end of the terminal (inside the speaker). Or end up with a hot solder ball burning through the polyfill, etc. etc. Painting a dark picture here, but just trying to conceive what might happen.
I am not aware of a conductive epoxy with the required strength to effect a good as new repair, and take the stress of a terminal. That includes solder. Braizing would be the best most likely.
You could use a small vise grip or needle nose at the base of the lug so it heat sinks and avoids those potential problems, but you might try the follwing first:
(1) Is there enough thread left to screw on another type of terminal or lug you could attach your speaker wire to?
(2) I am not aware of the construction of your speaker, but most have a terminal plate that can be easily removed, then you can access the lug on both sides and fix it the right way.

 

[Ron Boster]

Since I've never sodder anything before, I really want to stay away from that altnerative. I'm not sure about removing the binding post plate, I'll have to check the speaker....but I fear opening up the speaker to repair too.
I'll take a look at Rat shack for a lug that may work...the current one threads are on the top end and to reverse the lug results (in the other end) not holding the banana plug in place. Plus, there isn't much of the exsisting thread to hold on to....that's why I was hoping there is a conductive glue to repair the post.

 

[DaleB]

Again, I don't think you will get the required strength or conductivity with any kind of epoxy (even though they can pick up a car with just a drop!!!) They usually only have great strength in one direction. They break instantly if knocked to one side, and screwing on a wire would likely bend it enough to give way.
The terminals are usually mounted on a plastic disc that attached with 4 or 6 small screws. You can remove those, slowly pull the disk back, and check out the terminal attachment.
It should not be a big deal. But again, I claim ignorance with regards to your particular speakers. Maybe someone can help with that.

 

[Ron Boster]

Dale:
Thanks so much for the follow information
Ron

 

[Ron Boster]

I found a silver based epoxy from Circuit Works at a local electrical supply house. At face value, it sounds perfect...conductive, high bonding expoxy for a soderless alternative.
Ron

 

[DaleB]

Well, you could try that first. I would be skeptical as to how well it conducts, for audio use.

 

[Kimmo Jaskari]

In my opinion, you'd be better off simply replacing the binding post. Probably more work but the end result will be better too.
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/Kimmo

 

[Jay C]

Just for clarification, you said you broke the threaded rod? Is this the type of rod that has a hole drilled in it to insert the wire first, and use the lug to tighten it down? If so, then you will not be able to repair the post with solder, brazing, or epoxy. We are talking about a thin threaded rod. even if you do "glue" it back together, do you think you will be able to tighten the lug enough?
I agree with the last two posts, replace the post.
Jay

 

[Ron Boster]

Yes, it's a threaded rod with a lug that threads over the rod...which accepts both bare wire (through the hole tightened down with the lug or a banana plug (which is my usage). I'm going to try the epoxy (nothing to loose) and if that doesn't work, replace it.
Thanks everyone for taking the time to respond to my questions!
Ron